Soldering.

[andyonbass]

With a bit of time on my hands it seems like it would be a good idea to learn how to solder properly. There are some great resources on here regarding playing techniques and string choices etc so how about a numpty's guide to soldering?  You tube tutorials that I've seen generally assume you have the correct iron at the correct temperature using the correct flux and solder wire. It would be good to have a guide on what to buy and how to use it or perhaps a link to a good resource.....  Anyone wanna chip in?

[hooky_lowdown]

You need a minimum of a 40w iron, anything with less power just won't do the job well enough.

[John Cribbin]

OK, you've already seen the basics online and that's where I would direct you.

I must have been soldering stuff for 45 odd years. I started with a 15 w iron, pretty much back in the day that's all you got other than an industrial piece of kit ...

I probably got away with that for 30 odd years, it's fine for small stuff, nonsence on soldering to pots, but somehow I managed ...

A few years ago, I bought A Hakko solder station clone on Ebay, wow I wish I those were available back in the day. So what should you buy? Hmmm, If you're working on PCB's a 12-15w iron is all you need, but if you're working on bigger stuff like pots, you'll need a lot more power.

It's a balancing act, to many watts and you risk damaging stuff, to little watts and you won't achieve a good bond. That's why I opted for a solder station, it covers all my needs and should last a lifetime. If you can budget for a solder station go for it, you won't regret it.

Temperature, well that's down to the type of solder used. I use the old fashioned 60/40 cored lead solder. Works at a lower temp and flows nicely. That solder is banned in a lot of commercial manufacturing on H&S grounds. The modern replacement is silver solder I've not tried it, but it needs a higher temp and apparently doesn't flow as well with an iron. There's another advantage to a solder station, you just dial in the correct temp for the nedium you are using.

Working with pots, cleanliness and a good key goes a long way to make a successful joint. I use a glass fibre pen to lightly key the pot surface and wipe over with a drop of naptha to clean and degrease. Maybe overkill, but it makes me happy.

Rewired a Tele last week and tried a new toy. Came across something called liquid flux, just put a little drop on the cleaned pot and then did the soldering. Seemed to help the flow. My 10ml bottle will probably last a lifetime.

A third hand tool is really useful for holding stuff in place and heat shrink tubing has a multitude of uses.

The real key is practice, get some wire and a few old pots and go for it. You can clean the pots and reuse them. Once you're happy with the results, go for the real thing and good luck.

 

[ClassicVibes]

Also, recommendations for soldering irons online? 

[itu]

Very good notes from Mr. Cribbin!

One Hakko, some good tin and training, please. Weller and Metcal make good units, but they may be quite pricey. If you want to be like a pro, that Hakko and few different tips will make you happy.

Clean the tip between solderings!

[PaulWarning]

one thing I only discovered recently was to clean the tip with a wet sponge regularly, sounds odd but it works,

[mcnach]

On 09/06/2020 at 10:09, hooky_lowdown said:

You need a minimum of a 40w iron, anything with less power just won't do the job well enough.

 

+1

My first solder iron was a 15W one, and it worked... but not well. You need something a bit hotter to make your life easier.

I have a little soldering station now after seeing it recommended in this very forum years ago, and I'd recommend you get one too. Having a nice setup so that you can hold the iron, adjust temperatures etc is very useful and makes soldering so much easier. 

[gary mac]

I would also recommend treating yourself to a solder remover tool. Just a few quid on EBay and money very well spent.

[rmorris]

What do you want to solder - wires to potentiometer solder tabs and bodies / through hole components / SMT  components / all of the above ?

[andyonbass]

6 hours ago, rmorris said:

What do you want to solder - wires to potentiometer solder tabs and bodies / through hole components / SMT  components / all of the above ?

Yeah, minor repairs to cables, jack sockets etc. tbh what has prompted me is the battery holder in my car key fob has come unsoldered and the dealer wants stupid money for a new one. Local repair man will do it but it looks like an easy fix if I had the gear and know how....

[Cuzzie]

I got the Tacklife solder iron box on amazon - it’s done the job nicely for me for bits and bobs 

got one of those octopus 3rd hands and use the advice given up top.

I just bowled in there and didn’t practice and learnt as I messed up!

Edited June 12, 2020 by Cuzzie

[Cuzzie]

Practically identical to this
 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07G99X9G6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gx74Eb2BXPB3C

 

this helps

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07KM11TC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ly74EbBFDHAGE

[WarPig]

2 hours ago, Cuzzie said:

Practically identical to this
 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07G99X9G6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gx74Eb2BXPB3C

This is pretty much the set I have. I've found it's really good for the price. I've done some kit work with it and I'm currently doing some work on a bass with it. The adjustable heat is useful. Good buy IMO.

[mcnach]

20 hours ago, Cuzzie said:

 

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07KM11TC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ly74EbBFDHAGE

 

That's brilliant!

I have a little version of that, just a heavy block with a couple of fixed arm crocodile clips, but that's great! I need to get me one of those

 

[Cuzzie]

I’ve never used all the arms but it makes me feel like Dr Octapus

[Chienmortbb]

I am going to go against the flow here. This is in two parts.

1. For years at work I used Wellers and they are great. However the magnetic temperature control was not as reliable as I would have liked. I also dis not find the handle comfortable.

One day we employed a new wireman and he only used Antex irons and I have used them ever since. Antex is a British company and their technique for heating the iron is very efficient , the bit surrounds the element meaning my 18 watt* has never let me down and my 15W** can do most jobs. The 15W outpeforms most cheap 30W irons. Seems like  wattage is no indicator of performance. Now where have I heard that before.

I just ordered a new handle to the 15W. It is 40 years old and although the new handle has been redesigned, it fits the old element.

For a brginner,

*https://www.esr.co.uk/shop/contents/en-uk/p32302_Antex_CS_18W_230V_Soldering_iron_PVC_cable___plug.html

I would resist temperature controlled irons (although I have one) as I tend to spend more time playing with them than actually soldering.

2. Some tips for soldering:

• Use as big an iron as you need. My 18 watt with a 3mm tip has never let me down.
• Make sure the tip is suitable for the job, the bigger the tip  the more heat is can transfer quickly. A 50 watt iron with a 1mm tip will not solder onto the case of a big pot. Incidently, I never solder to pots, I know the guitar industry has since the 50's but it is still bad practice.
• Always clean the tip before every use. Tip cleaners are OK but a good wet sponge is still the best way in my opinion.
• Atfer cleaning, "tin" the tip by applying a little  solder to it. Not a blob.
• Move both the iron and the solder to the work towards the work. The solder should only touch the iron/work as they come together.
• Take the solder and iron away as soon as the solder liquifies.
• If you are doing several joints in quick succession and not putting the iron into its holder, there is no need to tin the tip every time.
• Some people will tell you not to blow the hot joint (no puns please) as it causes a dry joint (cold joint in the USA). I don't believe this and blowing does push the fumes away if you have no fume extraction.
• Before putting the iron into the holder (did I say that a holder is a must), wipe the tip again with the sponge.

Any questions please ask.

 

 

[Cuzzie]

Gold dust post that - always here to learn thanks

[Cuzzie]

@Chienmortbb that was dangerous - just ordered some stuff from that site

Great web site

[Chienmortbb]

I should perhaps clarify, there is nothing wrong per se with temperature controlled irons. My worry is that people set an iron for the melting point of the solder being used. That is a recipe for a disaster as the iron cools immediately it touches solder and the work. Then the solder either does not melt OR does not melt fully. That joint would not be reliable. Although it is counterintuitive, a cold iron is more dangerous than a hot one. Also a cold iron can easily cause components to overheat as they are in contact for longer.

[grandad]

Approx' 350C for 60/40 tin/lead, 400C for lead free.

Tip size is important, to small is not a good heat reservoir for quick in - out soldering.

Do not move the components until the solder is set, blowing gently is OK to disperse fumes.

Wipe the tip before applying fresh solder not before resting the iron in the holder.

Cleanliness is next to goodliness for soldering, e.g. shiny metal tins better than dull. Wash hands after.

Practice makes perfect and take care not to drop the iron in your lap.

You will also need 2 pair of hands.

Edited June 14, 2020 by grandad

[BassmanPaul]

Be careful when working on a PCB. If your iron is too hot you can cause a trace to lift off the board. I suggest using an old PCB to practice on so you can get the 'touch'.

[grandad]

Lifting the PCB tracks is usually caused by leaving the iron in contact too long. The adhesive eventually melts. If for instance removing old solder from a PCB then try putting some fresh solder on & then removing the old & new together with a de-solder tool or roll the iron on top of some de-solder braid.

[BassmanPaul]

I have been using a soldering iron since age 13 or so. LOL I'm 74 ATM but only getting older!  

it's all too easy lifting a trace and ruining the PCB so thus my warning.  Many of us have an old obsolete circuit card, say from a PC or the such. Actually trying your hand on the real thing gets you the feel.

Edited June 14, 2020 by BassmanPaul

[Phil Starr]

I use the Antex XS25 mine is about 30 years old and it replaced an Antex 15W model. I don't think I'd go down to 15W again, you need a bit more heat for lead free solder. I've not tried a temp controlled iron because my Antex still works.

All the above about cleaning the metal before soldering and keeping the tip clean.

If you are new then practice soldering old bits of wire together until you get nice joints, tin the tip of the iron, tin both parts you want to join  and then just a touch of solder should complete the joint. I was taught to heat the lead/solder tag or whatever first and run the solder on to that rather than to try and apply it off the iron. The solder will melt as soon as the thing you are soldering is hot enough. Works for me.

[Chienmortbb]

Well someone put the jinx on me. The element on my 40 year old Antex CS18 iron had gone open circuit. Nothing is built to last these days 😁. Of course the iron  is still made so a new element on its way. I am back to using my 45 year old 15W Antex for a while.

 

Quote

I was taught to heat the lead/solder tag or whatever first and run the solder on to that rather than to try and apply it off the iron. The solder will melt as soon as the thing you are soldering is hot enough.

That works well for larger stuff like pots and speaker tags, but I would not do that on small electronic components, they are likely to overheat. I would also tin the solder tag/pot first but you must use fresh solder.

Edited June 17, 2020 by Chienmortbb