The Short Scale Bass Appreciation Society!

[TheGreek]

2 hours ago, scrumpymike said:

 

Mmmm, can't believe that the ergonomic mistakes made on the original MIM, custom-shop Fender Rascal have been repeated on this Squier variant!! As with the original Rascal, the phrase 'form over function' springs to mind.

 

I quote from the Squier model description: "Other player-friendly details of this model include a short and easy-to-play 30" scale length..."

 

For me, this short-scale 'player-friendly detail' is completely cancelled out by the quirky body shape that adds needless weight, makes lower-fret access too much of a stretch, and places the plucking/picking hand on top of the bridge.

 

Which is why I got our Andyjr1515 to transform my Fender Rascal into this. That was a few years ago, and it's still the best s-s bass I've ever played 🙂

 

 

 

I forgot how nice looking this bass is....

[ezbass]

1 hour ago, fretmeister said:

I’ve got the Fender flats on my shortie.

 

As long as the tuning posts are full sized then the string seems fine. On a mini tuner where the turns are so much tighter they can break.

I have found the same.

[dmc79]

1 hour ago, fretmeister said:

I’ve got the Fender flats on my shortie.

 

As long as the tuning posts are full sized then the string seems fine. On a mini tuner where the turns are so much tighter they can break.

So pretty much any long scale strings are fair game on a Mustang then?

[ped]

7 minutes ago, dmc79 said:

So pretty much any long scale strings are fair game on a Mustang then?

 

Aye I've got Elixir rounds on mine

[Osiris]

10 minutes ago, dmc79 said:

So pretty much any long scale strings are fair game on a Mustang then?

 

In my experience, yes. My JMJ had gone from the stock Fender flats to some D'Addario rounds. Both long scale, no issues with tone or intonation, just take care when first fitting them, particularly the E string, but once fitted they've proven to be trouble free in my experience. 

Edited June 4, 2023 by Osiris
Cider induced confusion

[Lozz196]

1 hour ago, ped said:

 

Aye I've got Elixir rounds on mine

Same here

[BabyBlueSound]

I have long EB cobalt flats on both my Ibanez and Ray, they're fine! But I'd rather not show how the Ibanez looks, I was still practicing with the right lengths there, that one looks awful  

 

[fretmeister]

I like the purple!

 

Well, I spent the weekend swapping between my 2 shorties and my long scale TT4 and despite my earlier thoughts I think I'm going to get a quote for a Sandberg TT4 Shortscale Superlight and see if I could afford it if I sold the long scale.

 

The TT4 is my only long scale these days. I've got 3 mediums and 2 shorties at the moment. The Long scale is lovely but I'm just loving the shorties far more.

[dmc79]

My JMJ Mustang has arrived. I've never owned a roadworn instrument before, so it takes a little getting used to visually, but I do like the nitro finish. This vintage and (intentionally) beat-up looking beast will be going up against the modern, looks like it just came off the production line short SBMM Stingray. I played that on Sunday and whilst still not really used the stingray sound, I did enjoy the parallel mode and how light and easy the bass is to play. Acoustically I wasn't sure about the jazz width nut, but plugged in I can't say it bothered me too much. Still, it will be fun to try a shorty with a P width nut in the JMJ. I'd just like to raise the action a bit to remove some rattle. 

 

I now have a bit of a quandary, as the guitar tech I use is giving minimum 10 day turnaround. Bearing in mind that I've learnt to do setups myself on P basses, I now have the choice to either take it in and face said 10 day+ wait, or order a truss rod tool and do it myself in maybe a couple of days. Has anyone taken a Phillips screwdriver to those + shaped truss rods or am I best ordering a special tool, or just taking it in and being without it for a while? I saw a post where a B&Q paint tin opener was used, I have one of those but not sure I want to risk it. Also, for those who've setup Mustangs, I hope this isn't a silly question, but is a short scale setup the same as you'd do for long scale? I setup my P bass with a combination of Fender's own 'How do I set up my bass guitar properly?' guide and YouTube videos and was very happy with the end result. So is stuff like the neck relief (Fender recommend .012" for 9.5" radius) and raising bridge saddles, exactly the same as you'd do for a long scale bass? Thanks. 

 

 

[fretmeister]

Buy yourself the proper tool. It's a much better option and if it every needs adjusting for string changes or extreme weather then you can do it yourself properly.

I bet you'll find a supplier who can deliver the tool in a day or 2.

 

I never measure anything for my set ups. I do them all by feel. I know what I like.

[Lozz196]

I just used a regular flat-blade screwdriver (which worked fine) but I do think having the right tools are the best way, can you point in the right direction @fretmeister?

[fretmeister]

Alas - my basses all use allen key truss rod tools.

I haven't got a Mustang to see what it's got.

[Lozz196]

Looking at this, think it will do it

 

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/wrenches/truss-rod-crank-for-tele/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=2023-06-gp&pref_currency=GBP&shipcalc=UK&gad=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwj_ajBhCqARIsAA37s0xRKkw8YSlzF4Nz4-hqFluZZpfX0Yvy8mPC343aBfSiehloyPX8G0kaAnHYEALw_wcB

[ped]

@dmc79 whereabouts are you? Anywhere near York?

[fretmeister]

1 minute ago, ped said:

@dmc79 whereabouts are you? Anywhere near York?

 

 

"Up North" is anywhere above Watford Gap isn't it? 

[ped]

Just now, fretmeister said:

 

 

"Up North" is anywhere above Watford Gap isn't it? 

 

Anything above Chipping Norton

[Woodinblack]

3 minutes ago, ped said:

 

Anything above Chipping Norton

 

I would put it a bit lower, but yes, it is quite clear when you go up the M5 from Bristol there is a sign that says "The North" - so obviously anything more north of that is the North.

[dmc79]

I’m in Southport (North West, despite the name). Maybe loaning a tool is an option. Thanks Loz, the Stewmac price is in £ but don’t they ship from the USA? Just deciding whether to get a tool or take it in. I don’t want to get over excited as who knows if I’ll end up keeping the bass anyway 
 

 

[Osiris]

11 minutes ago, Lozz196 said:

Looking at this, think it will do it

 

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/wrenches/truss-rod-crank-for-tele/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=2023-06-gp&pref_currency=GBP&shipcalc=UK&gad=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwj_ajBhCqARIsAA37s0xRKkw8YSlzF4Nz4-hqFluZZpfX0Yvy8mPC343aBfSiehloyPX8G0kaAnHYEALw_wcB

 

I was about to post that very thing 😀 I have one and it's perfect for a JMJ, no need to take the neck off, just slot the end of the tool into the groove (nudge nudge, wink wink, know what I mean) and give it a turn and job done. The only place Google shopping is showing up as having UK stock is here but I'm pretty sure I paid a lot less than that for mine. 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202652853522?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=Cj0KCQjwj_ajBhCqARIsAA37s0zq8x-NFzPN-XXWuSmxjdgnpgkcUgrd7NU3Z_4k8tC1vj09OmOFW1UaAmzaEALw_wcB

[ezbass]

3 hours ago, dmc79 said:

My JMJ Mustang has arrived. I've never owned a roadworn instrument before, so it takes a little getting used to visually, but I do like the nitro finish. This vintage and (intentionally) beat-up looking beast will be going up against the modern, looks like it just came off the production line short SBMM Stingray. I played that on Sunday and whilst still not really used the stingray sound, I did enjoy the parallel mode and how light and easy the bass is to play. Acoustically I wasn't sure about the jazz width nut, but plugged in I can't say it bothered me too much. Still, it will be fun to try a shorty with a P width nut in the JMJ. I'd just like to raise the action a bit to remove some rattle. 

 

I now have a bit of a quandary, as the guitar tech I use is giving minimum 10 day turnaround. Bearing in mind that I've learnt to do setups myself on P basses, I now have the choice to either take it in and face said 10 day+ wait, or order a truss rod tool and do it myself in maybe a couple of days. Has anyone taken a Phillips screwdriver to those + shaped truss rods or am I best ordering a special tool, or just taking it in and being without it for a while? I saw a post where a B&Q paint tin opener was used, I have one of those but not sure I want to risk it. Also, for those who've setup Mustangs, I hope this isn't a silly question, but is a short scale setup the same as you'd do for long scale? I setup my P bass with a combination of Fender's own 'How do I set up my bass guitar properly?' guide and YouTube videos and was very happy with the end result. So is stuff like the neck relief (Fender recommend .012" for 9.5" radius) and raising bridge saddles, exactly the same as you'd do for a long scale bass? Thanks. 

 

 

Fender originally designed these and their other models with tight,  odd end adjustment, to have the neck screws loosened and the truss rod nut adjusted with a screwdriver. When I received my JMJ, we were in the depths of lockdown and I was in temporary accommodation, with no access to my tools. I did the relief adjustment with a multi tool, loosening the neck and making the adjustments with that. A fettled paint tin opener is a great tool that saves loosening the neck, however. Yes, setup is not different from a long scale bass.

[fretmeister]

I've only had 1 bass that needed the neck off / loosened to adjust the rod. So I sold it.

Such a terrible design.

 

If I ever own another and it is a keeper then I'll be routing out a channel in the body under the scratchplate so the neck doesn't have to be loosened.

[dmc79]

Well, turns out the neck relief was fine anyway. I took the pickguard off as I presumed I may need to adjust the rod. It was a lot of faffing about getting the pickguard screws through the little cone springs and back into the pickup covers. Ended up loosening the strings so much I almost might as well have taken them off. Raised the bridge saddles to my preferred action, feels very nice to play, especially as I've never played a short scale bass with a P width nut. I've left the tug bar off for now, so whilst this may be considered sacriligious, I've never cared for or seen the point in them, also it's my bass and I don't care what anyone thinks!

 

I'll have to see how I get on with the weight - it's only a shade under that of my P bass, at 3.8Kg / 8lbs 4oz, and whilst I knew this when buying it, still feels heavy after playing the 3.3Kg / 7lb 8oz short Stingray (though still lighter than a lot of basses of course). Weight was the main factor in considering going to short scale, the lesser left hand stretches were kind of a bonus, but I do really like that aspect of it on the Ray. Thanks for your help regarding the truss tool, but it looks like I won't need one after all. Now to plug this thing in!

 

Edit: If my back can’t handle it, then please form an orderly queue!

 

 

Edited June 5, 2023 by dmc79

[ezbass]

22 minutes ago, dmc79 said:

I've left the tug bar off for now, so whilst this may be considered sacriligious, I've never cared for or seen the point in them, also it's my bass and I don't care what anyone thinks!

That's all that matters. I've manufactured a small thumb rest from some dowelling, painted it white and attached where I like them to be, behind the pickup and a string's width away from the E. 

[fretmeister]

One of the reasons I started looking at shorties was the weight too.

 

My Jim Deacon P is about 7.5lb, maybe a bit less (I can't remember, but it's comfy) and when I first started looking for a Lionel I did look at the stuff in stock, but they vary a lot from about 7.5lb to 9lb depending on spec and whether it's got 1 pickups and active + battery etc. It all adds up really fast.

 

So in the end I thought "Buy once, buy right" and ordered my Lionel as a Superlight. It's 5.7lb / 2.58kg.

Of course humans are stupid, so at the end of a 2 hour rehearsal on a Saturday morning I'm still relieved that I'm taking it off!  

[dmckee]

On 04/06/2023 at 14:48, scrumpymike said:

 

Mmmm, can't believe that the ergonomic mistakes made on the original MIM, custom-shop Fender Rascal have been repeated on this Squier variant!! As with the original Rascal, the phrase 'form over function' springs to mind.

 

I quote from the Squier model description: "Other player-friendly details of this model include a short and easy-to-play 30" scale length..."

 

For me, this short-scale 'player-friendly detail' is completely cancelled out by the quirky body shape that adds needless weight, makes lower-fret access too much of a stretch, and places the plucking/picking hand on top of the bridge.

 

Which is why I got our Andyjr1515 to transform my Fender Rascal into this. That was a few years ago, and it's still the best s-s bass I've ever played 🙂

 

 

That’s very cool new body.