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1 hour ago, fretmeister said:

Does anyone know what the bridge string spacing is on a Fender Mustang?

And is it the same on all of them? 

 

I'm having such cravings for a JMJ and I've never even been in a room with one.

 

 

I don't know the numbers off the top of my head but I've played several different Mustang variants, including owning a Mexican PJ as well as a JMJ, and the spacing varies. The PJ, Squires and IIRC the current top of the line Performer (which was also the most underwhelming IMO) all have tighter spacing and slimmer necks than the JMJ, they're more jazz like necks with narrower nuts. The JMJ is a more chunky P like neck with wider spacing, but still comfortable and addictive to play. The JMJ models definitely live up to the hype and I regularly gig mine in preference to my Sandberg shorty. 

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5 minutes ago, Osiris said:

 

I don't know the numbers off the top of my head but I've played several different Mustang variants, including owning a Mexican PJ as well as a JMJ, and the spacing varies. The PJ, Squires and IIRC the current top of the line Performer (which was also the most underwhelming IMO) all have tighter spacing and slimmer necks than the JMJ, they're more jazz like necks with narrower nuts. The JMJ is a more chunky P like neck with wider spacing, but still comfortable and addictive to play. The JMJ models definitely live up to the hype and I regularly gig mine in preference to my Sandberg shorty. 

 

I've seen the nut differences on the Fender site - but I can't see any mention of bridge spacing.

 

I've got a Lionel with IIRC 19mm and a couple of Jim Deacons which are 16mm or 16,5mm and I like them for different things. I like the really tight spacing for plectrum work.

 

If it's not too much hassle - next time you play the JMJ could you take a photo of the bridge showing a ruler next to the saddles?

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PXL_20241030_163138663.thumb.jpg.dea3327c7d4efc9c94bf852be27da4fa.jpg

 

Hope this helps.

 

FWIW, I've tried to match the string spacing on my Lionel (still a daft name for an awesome bass!) to match the JMJ, and while it's close the Sandberg strings are a fraction of a mm wider even at the closest even spacing than the JMJ. 

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38 minutes ago, fretmeister said:

 

I've seen the nut differences on the Fender site - but I can't see any mention of bridge spacing.

 

I've got a Lionel with IIRC 19mm and a couple of Jim Deacons which are 16mm or 16,5mm and I like them for different things. I like the really tight spacing for plectrum work.

 

If it's not too much hassle - next time you play the JMJ could you take a photo of the bridge showing a ruler next to the saddles?

I have it written down as 17.5mm and just checking again, that seems accurate with a steel rule.

 

IMG_0968.thumb.jpeg.2e1b9371acd82fa6624c954e9cf1c152.jpegIMG_0969.thumb.jpeg.f70fe9e70f18bb2067c68b70142337ee.jpeg

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My Squier ClassicVibe Mustang is ~18mm, I think the original Fender Mustang type bridge is 18mm, the PJ variants with hi mass or bbot bridges are probably 19mm

 

string spacing seems to be left off the technical details on so many instruments these days, I wonder if it is because they buy in components from so many sources in batches and can't guarantee if they are all the same - they really should detail string spacing at the bridge and at the nut, not just the nut width

Edited by Aidan63
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21 hours ago, ezbass said:

I have it written down as 17.5mm and just checking again, that seems accurate with a steel rule.

 

IMG_0968.thumb.jpeg.2e1b9371acd82fa6624c954e9cf1c152.jpegIMG_0969.thumb.jpeg.f70fe9e70f18bb2067c68b70142337ee.jpeg

I’m sorry, it must be my obsession with detail but I have to ask what that second row of small cross head screws is for?  How many screws does it take to hold a bridge plate on? There already seem to be 5 large cross head screws holding it on.

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1 minute ago, Obrienp said:

I’m sorry, it must be my obsession with detail but I have to ask what that second row of small cross head screws is for?  How many screws does it take to hold a bridge plate on? There already seem to be 5 large cross head screws holding it on.

They're originally for holding the individual string mutes on. You could tighten or loosen them to bring them up or down.

 

You can see it here:
https://www.oliviasvintageguitars.com/bass/guitars/6603/

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1 minute ago, MichaelDean said:

They're originally for holding the individual string mutes on. You could tighten or loosen them to bring them up or down.

 

You can see it here:
https://www.oliviasvintageguitars.com/bass/guitars/6603/

Thanks. I’ll be able to sleep tonight 😀.
 

As an aside, I wish there was an after market bass bridge that came with string mutes but I guess it would make manufacturing costs too high and it would have a small market. It would beat messing around with bits of foam, or fret wraps.

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Hi folks

 

I am somewhat late to this party and an awful lot to potentially read through here!

 

I am increasing plagued by hand related issues almost certainly a result of 40yrs of rugby and getting finger dislocations etc. on a regular basis.  I am gradually moving on most/all of my long scale basses due to increasing discomfort when playing them.  One option that I have yet to try, but that might work for me is a short scale bass.  I wonder if you good folks would be kind enough to suggest a few options for me along the following lines please:

 

Not too expensive in case short scales don't work either and I need to move it on.

Not a hyper skinny neck as the chunkier ones seem to be a bit better.

No too heavy and certainly under 4kgs.

Probs not a semi hollow.

String spacing as close to 19mm as possible.

 

I have seen a couple of the Chowny SWB-1s on here which might suit.  Scott used to be my bass tutor a few years ago and I remember playing all the prototypes as the line was being developed, but at the time I was playing long scale basses without difficulty, and probably without much talent either :lol:  But I guess they might be an option.

 

Thanks in advance.

Edited by ead
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If you can find one then a Jim Deacon Precision is a perfect "try it out" short scale bass.

 

Used for under £150, pretty light in weight - 3.6kg ish and best of all, the basic build is definitely good enough to warrant upgrading the other bits.

I got my first one a few years ago as I just wanted to try a shortie. 

 

There was a bit of neck dive so I fitted some Hipshot Ultralight tuners which completely solved that.

 

The vol and tone controls were pretty much ON/OFF cheap things so they were replaced, and as I don't like pickup polepieces that stick out I stuck in an Aguilar that I already had.

 

It has turned into my very favourite bass. It has La Bella short scale DTF strings on it for that Jamerson / Duck Dunn thing.

 

I love it so much I recently bought another one. It will get the same tuning head upgrade, but this time I'm going for modern tones. I have a set of EMG PJ-X pickups that will go in it. I'll get the slot for the J routed out professionally as I should never be trusted with power tools.

 

The string spacing at the bridge is quite narrow at 16.5mm but it turns out I like that - but if you like wide spacing then it might not be the thing for you. However the advantage with that is that the neck stays slim all the way up to the top fret and that makes it very easy on the left hand. Nut width is 38mm and the neck shape is a pleasingly full C shape.

 

Even if you don't like it you'll have no trouble moving it on. After I bought the cream one that was on here I had messages from 2 people asking me if I was going to keep it or going to sell again.

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@ead I have hand issues too (after rugby and motorcycle accidents) but tend to go for the Jazz shape necks (narrow and deep-ish). Huge generalisation but a lot of shorties do tend to have quite narrow necks. There are exceptions around but I don’t think many fit your price/weight criteria.

 

If you can find them used a JMJ Mustang might be a good one as it has a chunkier neck. The Reverend Watt Plower also but both are a bit pricey. I think there are other chunkier neck Mustangs and I am sure others can advise. The new Vintage Callan seems to have a fairly wide nut and it’s quite keenly priced.

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33 minutes ago, fretmeister said:

The string spacing at the bridge is quite narrow at 16.5mm but it turns out I like that - but if you like wide spacing then it might not be the thing for you. However the advantage with that is that the neck stays slim all the way up to the top fret and that makes it very easy on the left hand. Nut width is 38mm and the neck shape is a pleasingly full C shape.

 

Thanks for the recommendation but string spacing would be an issue for me (fat fingers).  I will amend my post to reflect this.

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The JMJ Mustang is great, however has a Precision width neck. If needing slimmer then the Japanese Mustangs are Jazz width neck, and a bonus is that the Squiers are also Jazz width, so a test purchase of a Squier to see if you gel is doable at around £300.

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19 minutes ago, ead said:

 

Thanks for the recommendation but string spacing would be an issue for me (fat fingers).  I will amend my post to reflect this.

 

There's a decent looking '96 Squier 'Vista' Musicmaster on ebay at the moment:

Ebay - Squier Vista Musicmaster

I've had a few of them, and think they're great underrated shortscales IMHO. I too prefer a chunkier neck with 19mm spacing too, and the neck profile on them suits me. 

The seller is open to offers, and considering it doesn't have it's original pickup, might accept a lower price.

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5 minutes ago, BabyBlueSound said:

The Ibanez Talman shortie has a neck width just between P and J, and I find it very comfortable, not too thick, not too slim for fatter fingers. Also ticks the "must be cheap" category.

 

I can't imagine that you won't like shorties. 😁

 

Love my Talman. Has consigned some expensive basses to standby duties for quite a while now. Mine seems to have very strong output for a passive bass too.

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