Output Jack Issue

[Bafflegab]

Hey all

I'm having an issue with the output jack on one of my basses.  If I plug the cable in fully, no sound at all.  But if I just rest the cable in the socket without pushing it in, it works fine (but it's obviously super loose, so if I move much, no sound!)

I've tested with different cables to make sure.

Does it sound like something I can resolve without replacing the jack?  If so, what sort of things should I try?  I've tried pressured air into the hole, and also wiped the contacts on my shirt in case of dust, but no effect.

I do have a new jack, but am cr@p at soldering, so if I can avoid it, great

Cheers

Ryan

[Hellzero]

If your jack is loose, then it's dead, especially if it's a barrel type.

Otherwise, you can tighten up the lugs by pushing them towards the center.

[KiOgon]

Too little information!

What bass?

Is it mounted on a scratchplate/control plate or through body, top or side and is it a open or enclosed, (barrel), type?

[Bafflegab]

20 hours ago, KiOgon said:

Too little information!

What bass?

Is it mounted on a scratchplate/control plate or through body, top or side and is it a open or enclosed, (barrel), type?

Ah sorry, I wasn't sure how much information I should provide  

It's a jazz type bass, passive, and it's one of those types with the wonky bit of metal inside (I'm sure you know what I mean!).  I'm guessing that's the open type.  

Mounted on a control plate

[BigRedX]

In that case you could try bending the tip contact so that the fit is more snug when the jack plug is inserted.

However IMO when sockets start to go wrong, any fix is only temporary and best solution is to replace the socket with a new one, preferably from a reputable brand.

[KiOgon]

42 minutes ago, BigRedX said:

In that case you could try bending the tip contact so that the fit is more snug when the jack plug is inserted.

However IMO when sockets start to go wrong, any fix is only temporary and best solution is to replace the socket with a new one, preferably from a reputable brand.

Dead right above ^ but if the plug pushed in cuts out the sound it's likely the tip of the plug is pushing the sprung contact of the socket into contact with the surrounding cavity, if that's shielded with copper or conductive paint it will short the signal out. Try unscrewing the control plate and lifting/moving it so the controls and wiring are out of the cavity, then plug in and see if it works OK. It the socket is good, it may only need moving around a bit so the tip contact can't touch the insides.

[inthedoghouse]

Just take off the scratchplate and insert the plug and look where the positive spring part of the socket touches when the plug is fully inserted.  It could be as easy as a little bit of bending of socket's contact.  Pretty much what others have said.

If it was me I'd probably just buy another decent socket - it's such an easy and cheap fix if you have a soldering iron and even very basic skills.

Edited July 23, 2020 by inthedoghouse

[Bafflegab]

Alright thanks guys!  I'll take a look at it this weekend.  I do have a spare brand new Harley Benton socket (is that a reputable brand for this stuff?) and I'm sure I could borrow a soldering iron from a mate for a day.  I'll watch some youtube tutorials  

I will try the suggestions first of moving things around in there and seeing what happens too.  I might be able to avoid replacing it, but it doesn't sound likely (pun intended)

Thanks very much all  

[KiOgon]

The only Jack socket worth thinking about is Switchcraft, nothing else. Full stop. The end.

IMHO, YMMV, etc.etc.

There's a reason why there are 50 and 60 + year old Fenders around still working with original components 😎

(Other makes of guitars and basses are available, apparently 🤣)

Edited July 23, 2020 by KiOgon

[Bafflegab]

Oh.  Okay!  I'll look into those.  Thanks for the info!

 

[Bafflegab]

@KiOgon where would I make sure I get a genuine one?

[KiOgon]

They're very commonly available, ebay, any online music shop or PM me - I can send you one.

Try the suggestions above first.

Also worth mentioning - and I've soldered a few over the years - nothing else solders like a Switchcraft, some are made of such shyte that you end up in tears trying, not saying Harley Benton ones are bad, but they are about the cheapest made basses etc. on the planet, so chances are - - -

[John Cribbin]

Absolutely the Switchcraft one, best £4 you'll ever spend on a guitar.

[nilebodgers]

1 hour ago, Bafflegab said:

@KiOgon where would I make sure I get a genuine one?

Look for Switchcraft #11 mono jack. Lots of the usual guitar parts suppliers stock them.

[Bafflegab]

16 hours ago, KiOgon said:

They're very commonly available, ebay, any online music shop or PM me - I can send you one.

Try the suggestions above first.

Also worth mentioning - and I've soldered a few over the years - nothing else solders like a Switchcraft, some are made of such shyte that you end up in tears trying, not saying Harley Benton ones are bad, but they are about the cheapest made basses etc. on the planet, so chances are - - -

Haha definitely sounds like it's worth it then

I opened up the control panel last night, and as soon as I moved it away from the bass, I magically got sound!  I think it was the above mentioned issue where it was touching the shielding.  I've moved some stuff around and carefully put it back, and it seems to be ok so far.

I'll keep an eye on it though (ear?) and will get a switchcraft jack if I get any more issues.

Thanks for your help everyone!

 

[Count Bassy]

A shout out for Neutrik as well. Same quality as Switchcraft.

Part No  NYS229  for mono.

 

[KiOgon]

9 hours ago, Count Bassy said:

A shout out for Neutrik as well. Same quality as Switchcraft.

Part No  NYS229  for mono.

 

Not in my experience.

[Count Bassy]

On 27/07/2020 at 10:03, KiOgon said:

Not in my experience.

I should have said IMHO, YMMV  etc.

Personally I've not had a problem with the Neutrik stuff except for some of their early Right Angle "Silent Plugs", which jammed.

(They acknowledged that there ws a design problem and sent me four of the revised design  - I'd only bought two in the first place!)

[Big_Stu]

On 27/07/2020 at 00:39, Count Bassy said:

A shout out for Neutrik as well. Same quality as Switchcraft.

Part No  NYS229  for mono.

I used to always got for Neutrik, from Maplins (RIP). Glad I had a stash of spares bought in before they folded, just put one in a Strat build.

[rmorris]

On 30/07/2020 at 17:03, Big_Stu said:

I used to always got for Neutrik, from Maplins (RIP). Glad I had a stash of spares bought in before they folded, just put one in a Strat build.

Not really a problem to get Neutrik product though .

CPC (and doubtless less expensive than Maplin) :

https://cpc.farnell.com/neutrik/nys229/1-4-jack-panel-socket-mono/dp/AV09109

[nilebodgers]

I’ve used a few of the Neutriks. They are a decent alternative if you don’t have the switchcrafts to hand, but the switchcrafts are a bit better.

Both are light years more durable and reliable than the cheapy no-brand products.

[Roger Eve]

Neutrik great company to deal with, customer service second to none. Give them a ring they will sort it for you.