wishface Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 Sticky neck is the problem. I'm not overly comfortable with trying this, but in case I pluck up the courage, what sort of sandpaper is required? Is linseed oil ideal to finish afterwards? Something else or nothing at all? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lownote Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 FWIW I used a fine grade sandpaper (400 or higher) and then finished it with nothing. I did it with some care and didn't try to to get back to the wood, just 'flat it down' a tad. Why put anything on? You've just gone to some effort to take it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franzbassist Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 What's the current finish? It's worth remembering that some poly fnishes gloss up again over time unless you go down to the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wishface Posted September 20, 2020 Author Share Posted September 20, 2020 35 minutes ago, franzbassist said: What's the current finish? It's worth remembering that some poly fnishes gloss up again over time unless you go down to the wood. That i don't know, it's a Sire M2 and i can't find a spec that tells me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu_g Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 I normally use wire wool,only takes off a small amount of finish. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigguy2017 Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 first this then this 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oxnard Montalvo Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 I just did this to one of mine yesterday. I started off with 400 grit to get near the wood then 800 grit to finish it off. After that, I rubbed it down with the white scotch-brite and rubbed in some teak oil. It feels fantastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wishface Posted September 20, 2020 Author Share Posted September 20, 2020 I tried scotch pads before, didn't even tickle the neck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigguy2017 Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 Only ever seen that once, on an Ibanez that was coated in bullet proof glass stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wishface Posted September 21, 2020 Author Share Posted September 21, 2020 what other oils can be used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris7273 Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 I used fine Steel wool ("000") on the neck of my Squier. just enough to have a "satin" surface but leaving a protection for the wood. - I isolated the neck from the body with a piece of fabric and covered the pickups with masking tape. Why ? : the pickup magnets "love" the steel dust 🙂 and once the dust is on the magnet, it's there for eternity.... - I used masking tape one the edge of the rosewood fretboard. Why ? : because too much enthusiasm is not always good 🙂 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wishface Posted September 21, 2020 Author Share Posted September 21, 2020 Maybe a daft question, I don't do sanding, but how do you know when you've sanded it down enough while leaving some of the finish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris7273 Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 When you are happy with how the neck feels 🙂. Don’t work too fast and/or to hard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGreek Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 Another vote for wire wool - check by feel periodically after wiping off with a dry duster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Dare Posted September 22, 2020 Share Posted September 22, 2020 (edited) If you use emery or sand paper, stick it to a piece of softish foam with some double sided tape. Then it will be more inclined to follow the contour/shape of what you're sanding and less likely to create flat spots or remove finish unevenly. Edited September 24, 2020 by Dan Dare 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted September 22, 2020 Share Posted September 22, 2020 I just used a household scouring pad cheap as chips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wishface Posted September 22, 2020 Author Share Posted September 22, 2020 3 minutes ago, Geek99 said: I just used a household scouring pad cheap as chips like brillo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fretmeister Posted September 22, 2020 Share Posted September 22, 2020 I use wet & dry paper. Really really fine grain. Not going through the finish, just removing the gloss. Nothing needed afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris7273 Posted September 22, 2020 Share Posted September 22, 2020 Fine steel wool or fine “wet and dry” sand paper are better than an agressive scouring pad and also cheap 🙂 . The result will be “more even”. But if it works for you : good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted September 22, 2020 Share Posted September 22, 2020 (edited) On 22/09/2020 at 15:38, wishface said: like brillo? Yes - just takes the shine off without going through . Also good for relicing scratch plates. Buy a pack as you go through them pretty quickly Edited September 24, 2020 by Geek99 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wishface Posted September 24, 2020 Author Share Posted September 24, 2020 On 22/09/2020 at 23:32, Geek99 said: Yes - just takes the shine off without going through . Also good for relicing scratch plates. Buy a pack ad you go through them pretty quickly I tried before with some pads i beought from poundland, but i guess they weren't strong enough. Didn't do anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 2 hours ago, wishface said: I tried before with some pads i beought from poundland, but i guess they weren't strong enough. Didn't do anything You got them from Poundland and you think they may not be up to it... buy from Harrods next time, skinflint 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wishface Posted September 26, 2020 Author Share Posted September 26, 2020 On 24/09/2020 at 14:51, Geek99 said: You got them from Poundland and you think they may not be up to it... buy from Harrods next time, skinflint I don't think, I know. becuse i tried, Ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petey Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 I prefer to Wet n Dry the back of my necks - using various grades of sandpaper to get a silky finish ( wire/steel wool can break off and get everywhere round the bass...esp the magnets on your pickups) ....You can buy micromesh = brilliant stuff - online from ebay/Robert Dyas, etc...… Birchwood Casey Gun Stock Wax is a great finisher, but read the instructions, use a cloth or your finger (NOT a brush) layer by thin layer till you get it to where you want.... you can rub down in between applications too....but there must be a wood oil sealer which you can apply like the Stingray MusicMan basses use...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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