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NBD: MihaDo Fingybass


tauzero
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MihaDo Fingybass arrived earlier today yesterday.

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Seems nicely made. Fretting is good, there's a little buzz from playing bottom C on the B string but that's it (and even that might be due to me not fretting the string firmly enough). Chamfered edges, the body extension along the neck gives clearance all the way up the fretboard. Nut clamp is a piece of brass bar with grub screws for the clamp. As can be seen, tuning uses a 3mm Allen key and is very smooth. I think I'll put another strap peg in on the lower bout so it doesn't get scratched up. As can be seen, it has 2 3.5mm sockets - the lower one is the headphone socket (jack socket is switched off when headphone socket is switched on), and I think the one just by the switch is an input, allowing playing along with bangin' choonz. Intonation was almost spot on, just needed to move the bridge a couple of millimetres on the low B side. Controls are volume and tone, as you'd expect, and sound is pretty good. Next thing is some experimenting with effects and EQ. 

Edited by tauzero
Inability to read (see also: Squire/Squier)
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  • tauzero changed the title to NBD: MihaDo Fingybass
  • 3 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Tuning systems for headless basses have cropped up in several topics, so I thought I'd disclose what the Fingy uses. Whipping the wooden cover off reveals this:

 

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The cap screws go through washers and a flat load-spreading plate, through the body, and into threaded holes in brass blocks sitting in routed grooves. The strings pass through holes in the brass blocks and the ball ends anchor them. Turning the cap screws with the provided allen key moves the brass blocks up and down the screw, using the string tension to keep everything in place. I haven't yet changed a string (haven't made as much use of it as I should, in fact), so I'm not sure if the ends of the cap screws are butted up to the ends of the slots or whether there are holes at the ends of the slots to stop them moving around. The bridge is a very simple non-adjustable one which could be replaced by something like the bridge part of the Warwick 2-piece bridge if that was really necessary. Apart from the trivial annoyance of inserting the allen key, tuning is an absolute delight - the allen key makes it easy to turn and get the tuning spot on.

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Looking at their Ebay store, they have one with more advanced Guyker-like tuners (for three times the price), but most of them have the same setup as mine has. A couple have more sophisticated bridges, one with a BBOT, another with individual bridge pieces. It looks quite a feasible upgrade but it all seems to work OK as it is. The extra leverage of the allen key and the fact that (like most headlesses) it's a screw thread rather than a worm gear means that it is the easiest and most accurate tuning of any bass, headed or headless, that I've used.

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