String tree needed here?

[bloke_zero]

Do I need a string tree here? The tuners are running pretty true to the string spacing on the nut.

I guess the question is, will it improve intonation or anything by providing a greater degree of break after the nut?

(this is a dry run build before I apply finish to it - hence the untrimmed nut etc.)

 

Edited November 14, 2020 by bloke_zero
Clearer picture.

[PaulThePlug]

Most P's and anything with a flat rather than angled back headstock have a string tree for the D and G to keep the strings tight in the nut.

Various styles, from the std disc, roller T, or billet hook...

Edited November 14, 2020 by PaulThePlug

[bloke_zero]

Thanks -  yes, that’s what I thought - I bought an old school disc for them.  I’m just wondering if I need it - I’m thinking about the MARUSZCZYK jake and Elwood

I always wind the strings so they end up angled to the base of the tuning post so they are angled down anyway, so just wondering if it’s really needed or just one of those things.

[TheGreek]

1 hour ago, bloke_zero said:

Do I need a string tree here? The tuners are running pretty true to the string spacing on the nut.

I guess the question is, will it improve intonation or anything by providing a greater degree of break after the nut?

(this is a dry run build before I apply finish to it - hence the untrimmed nut etc.)

 

I don't think I've ever seen a string tree required on the E string. If you don't mind me asking, what is that bass?

[Lozz196]

On my Fenders/Squiers I always put either an A-String Retainer (US Fenders) or a 3-way Hipshot (Mex Fenders/Squiers) as sometimes the A-string can rattle due to the gradual angle from nut to tuning peg. Costs less than £20, well worth it for peace of mind.

[bloke_zero]

5 hours ago, TheGreek said:

7 hours ago, bloke_zero said:

 

I don't think I've ever seen a string tree required on the E string. If you don't mind me asking, what is that bass?

Oh, I’m just asking about the higher strings, d & g - the neck is an allparts ‘chunky’ PJMO precision/jazz replacement neck with a smaller headstock. The e is fine - similar to a tele bass.

[mcnach]

On 14/11/2020 at 13:22, bloke_zero said:

Thanks -  yes, that’s what I thought - I bought an old school disc for them.  I’m just wondering if I need it - I’m thinking about the MARUSZCZYK jake and Elwood

I always wind the strings so they end up angled to the base of the tuning post so they are angled down anyway, so just wondering if it’s really needed or just one of those things.

 

Maruszczyk used angled back headstocks, that's why they don't need string trees

[Andyjr1515]

In terms of whether you need one...well it depends.

Basically, because the F-style headstocks are straight, then the further away the strings are from the nut, the less the break angle of the string over the nut.  That can lead to loss of tone (to an extent and most of us wouldn't be able to tell the difference) or the ability of the string to pop out of its nut slot or sometimes a bit of 'sitaring' where the string vibrates on the nut slot itself.  Additionally - and especially with guitars but less so with basses - the two longer-nut-to tuner string lengths (the G and the D) can actually vibrate like a harp.  In extreme cases this can actually change the sound coming through the pickups.

So in most cases, a string tree is fitted on these types of head.

But - if your windings are such that they go right down to the tuner nut, then actually you may be creating a good enough angle to not need to fit one. 

On a bass, my general rule of thumb is that if the string over the nut is heading towards10 degrees, then the string tree becomes more a matter of personal preference but, if so, make sure there are enough windings to get that tuner exit point as low as possible.

 

Edited November 15, 2020 by Andyjr1515

[bloke_zero]

After a bit of time I can say I need a tree - trying a lefthand muted pop left the portion of the G string on the tuner side of the nut singing like a, well, high pitched singing thing - use your own analogy, I've just thought of 4.

Makes me wonder whether the suggestion to have a string tree for ADG might be better than the button one I have for D&G.  Thanks for your input everyone!

[Andyjr1515]

19 minutes ago, bloke_zero said:

After a bit of time I can say I need a tree - trying a lefthand muted pop left the portion of the G string on the tuner side of the nut singing like a, well, high pitched singing thing - use your own analogy, I've just thought of 4.

Makes me wonder whether the suggestion to have a string tree for ADG might be better than the button one I have for D&G.  Thanks for your input everyone!

The other thing you can do if it is only the free length of string itself vibrating rather than vibration in the nut itself, is just shove a strip of foam behind the nut to stop the vibration.  I actually use an old velcro cable tie and wrap that round the strings behind the nut...does the same thing.  Certainly worth a try before drilling a hole in your headstock.

If it is actually sitar-ing in the nut slot itself, though, you probably need a tree.

[bloke_zero]

36 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

I actually use an old velcro cable tie

Great - works perfectly. Thanks!