Finished! A Very Special Save

[itu]

3 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

...came with standard small wood screws.  I always think that, assuming they are fitted properly, set screws and inserts are better.

They don't really do the large-threaded inserts in such small size, but the type you see on the right - I think more designed for metal - work fine as long as the drill hole is accurate...

Me too. I have done some experiments on a metal thread in a wood. If the thread is big in diameter, or long enough, metal type works surprisingly well. Thread insert is naturally a good step towards the big diameter thread.

Your method of two thread inserts is nice. I would put a big washer in between because it stops the insert flush. Yes, I know, my hands are less trained, and I think the Wal neck is curved at that particular place.

The owner of the Wal will be happy. Keep up the excellent work.

[Andyjr1515]

13 hours ago, itu said:

I would put a big washer in between because it stops the insert flush. Yes, I know, my hands are less trained, and I think the Wal neck is curved at that particular place.

Yes - I think for flat surfaces, then the washer tip is a great one.  With the curve there, the main thing was to make sure that the insert wasn't protruding at all and so I found it easier to use the second insert as it wouldn't matter if it was inserted just a touch deeper than the neck surface.

[Andyjr1515]

Final set up and tweaking always takes longer than you think but my target is that by the end of this weekend, this can go safely in the 'finished instruments' cupboard waiting for when Covid allows @Fishman and I to do the hand over.

Most of the past few days has been related to one of @Fishman 's ideal that we can achieve a very low action.  First step was to sort the shim to be able to keep the saddles nice and low.  I got some 1/64" ply and sanded the required angle by attaching it to a piece of thicker, flat ply and sanding it over a piece of glass (old glass shelves and similar are great things to have around for using as the base for sharpening plane blades, etc and for this kind of job.

You can see how the sanding has gone through a number of layers of the ply:

 

This got me to the point that the saddles flat at the bottom put the strings onto the frets and the maximum I should have to lift the saddles will be c. 3mm

And that has got me close.  I have a very playable action at 1.7mm to 1.5mm (I would normally set for starters with a bass at around 2.6mm to 2.2mm) but if I dig in hard, do get a bit of buzz at the lower strings. 

So I have set my challenge to try to get to 1.5mm to 1.3mm (we are talking gap of the bottom E & the top G measured from the bottom of the string to the top of the 12th fret - with the string fretted at the 1st to eliminate nut effect) with no buzz.  Which is lower than I would even set a 6-string electric...

I checked the relief.  The neck is actually dead flat - so, while there is no back bow, there is also no measurable relief.  And this is a single-action rod so I can't introduce relief by screwing it anticlockwise.  And the neck is as stiff as a board.  But I could do with a gnat's whisker of relief (although we are talking 'just perceptible' )...

So the answer is to take the neck off, tighten the truss rod a teeny bit and then level off the hump in the middle of the fretboard.  It looks more than it is - we are generally talking tenths of a mm:

So the theory is that when I take the tension back off the truss rod, I have a neck that now has a smidgen of relief in it.

I will know when I reassemble, but while it's off I'll take the opportunity to finish off all of the other stuff on the 'still to do' list.

  

 

Edited March 5, 2021 by Andyjr1515

[BassBod]

I recall Pete the Fish saying they gave up on the graphite because the laminated necks were so stiff already - the 80’s trend for very light strings often meant no neck relief, even with the nut undone. 

Edited March 6, 2021 by BassBod

[Andyjr1515]

1 hour ago, BassBod said:

I recall Pete the Fish saying they gave up on the graphite because the laminated necks were so stiff already - the 80’s trend for very light strings often meant no neck relief, even with the nut undone. 

Fascinating.  Great info - thanks.

Well, last couple of jobs before final reassembly are done, including the strap buttons.  For both buttons, but especially the one on the top horn, nowadays I always inset them - it's neater and much more secure.  I just use a forstner to give me the rebate and then use the centre hole from the forstner to drill the pilot hole for the screw.  And yes - this IS in the centre of the horn

Then a drop of stain soaked in to the cut edges and they can be fitted:

 

Final assembly to do - and then just the finished photos 

 

 

Edited March 6, 2021 by Andyjr1515

[Andyjr1515]

And...the finished shots   

 

 

 

[paul_5]

Oof!

 

 

So, to sum up: oof! 😮

[TheGreek]

Nice - looks as good as the real thing...

[paul_5]

This thread is worthless without sound!!!

[Andyjr1515]

5 minutes ago, paul_5 said:

This thread is worthless without sound!!!

You've never heard me play, clearly

We'll try to persuade @Fishman to do a sound clip when Boris allows us to pass it across.  There's not much point from here - I only have an electric guitar amp and that will never do this justice

 

[ezbass]

I've said it once and I'll say it again - WANT!

Kudos, as always. 👏👏👏

[Fishman]

Great work Andy! Yes, I'll do a sound clip hopefully in the very near future 😎

[Andyjr1515]

1 minute ago, Fishman said:

Great work Andy! Yes, I'll do a sound clip hopefully in the very near future 😎

Attaboy! 

[TrevorR]

3 hours ago, BassBod said:

I recall Pete the Fish saying they gave up on the graphite because the laminated necks were so stiff already - the 80’s trend for very light strings often meant no neck relief, even with the nut undone. 

And similarly with the later change from hornbeam to hard rock maple for the centre laminates*. Hornbeam has a reputation for being super stiff and solid and Ian & Pete decided that, with the laminates, maple/walnut/maple/maple/walnut/maple was more than stable enough.

 

 

*They were originally: maple/mukulungu/hornbeam/hornbeam/mukulungu/maple.

[Hellzero]

Another superb job ! 

[TrevorR]

Andy, that certainly is a thing of beauty! So nicely done! Bravo good sir.

[Andyjr1515]

23 minutes ago, TrevorR said:

Andy, that certainly is a thing of beauty! So nicely done! Bravo good sir.

Thanks, @TrevorR .  That means a great deal - much appreciated 

 

[HazBeen]

Fantastic result, well worth 💃🕺!

[4000]

2 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

And...the finished shots   

 

 

 

Great job. Is that fingerboard flatter than the original? It looks very flat.

[Andyjr1515]

Just now, 4000 said:

Great job. Is that fingerboard flatter than the original? It looks very flat.

Yes - @Fishman requested a flat board rather than the 14(?)" of the original.

[durhamboy]

Great job, love the attention to detail and the extra effort and inventiveness that goes into your builds. 

[DarkHeart]

Wow! 😍

[Mykesbass]

Fascinating (and excellent) build @Andyjr1515. Congratulations!

[Fishman]

I'll be putting this up for sale very soon (on here obviously!)

 

I'm posting this note as I'd like someone that's followed the build or expressed interest to buy it preferably

 

Mods: if this notice contravenes forum rules please remove

Edited October 29 by Fishman
typo