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Finished! A Very Special Save


Andyjr1515

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There's a feature line running through the fretboard blank that @Fishman would like to incorporate in the final fretboard.  Trouble is, it is quite diagonal across the blank.  We looked at a number of orientations using a template from the original board and came up with this as the closest we could get for the feature being centre-ish at both the heel and the nut:

fpmNcsgl.jpg

With this agreed, I could then cut one of the sides of the blank to give me a 90 degree datum for the fret slots.  I also thicknessed the board down to around 5.8mm.

That done, I attached the blank to the G&W mitre block 34" template:

aYcXlMkl.jpg

 

And then I could start sawing the slots.  Here's about half-way through.  I'll finish off tomorrow.

WDWgymIl.jpg

 

Edited by Andyjr1515
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And all the fretslots are done :)  The bottom right edge is the edge of the board.  You can just see the pencil mark for where the nut will come to once it's been cut to final taper.

69Tt1ajl.jpg

It's going to have no dots on the top (just some luminlays on the side) but just a couple of mother of pearl swifts at the 12th.  I'll do that while it's still on the fretting template so it doesn't move around as I'm dremel-routing for the inlays.

So this afternoon, mask on, jewellers saw out and time to cut a couple of swifts :)

 

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And here they are:

01tMlFOl.jpg

 

I've done two pairs.  I'm pretty sure that @Jus Lukin wants a completely plain board and just side dots on his headless build, but, while I had the folding table out and cutting rest clamped to it, it was almost as quick to do a second pair at the same time just in case or for another future build.

Along the same efficiency drive (don't worry, I'm sure that won't last long), then while the fret-slot mitre block I've just used for @Fishman 's board is still screwed to the workbench, I will hand mark the fret positions for @Jus Lukin 's 30" scale (I don't have a template for 30") and cut the slots on his board.

For this Wal project, then tomorrow morning - when I have a bit of daylight to be able to see the pencil marks on the ebony fretboard - I'll pencil round two of the inlays, rout the recesses and fit them onto the board :)

 

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Putting the inlays in was normal method. 

Started with a pencilled outline of the inlay and then my Dremel with a 1mm bit in the precision router base, plenty of light, frequent vacuuming and a very steady hand ;)

ZrzCcihl.jpg

Then mixed a generous amount of collected ebony sanding dust with some Z-poxy epoxy resin and filled the chambers with the mix:

wvbNRuul.jpg

Then pressed the inlays , forcing the black epoxy out, and hence gluing them in and sealing and filling any gaps at the same time:

DhNzu4pl.jpg

And when that's fully cured they will be sanded flat at the same time as the pre-fretting sanding of the board itself.

Nickel silver fretwire is on its way and, while all the fretboard stuff is out, I'll get on with a similar process with @Jus Lukin 's headless build :) 

 

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Still wondering how @fishman came upon a pro 1e without its body or bridge!  

That carbon strip in the neck btw is unique to early Wals. The customs, mk1s, 2s, 3s and pro 1 reissues don't have it.  The necks changed from hornbeam, mahogany and maple to just mahogany and maple at some point too.  "Engineered" indeed.

 

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41 minutes ago, Fishman said:

What really happened was mice nibbled away at the body over a period of months while it was in storage, it was so badly damaged that I took the thing apart and left them to finish the body

 

7 minutes ago, Fishman said:

Oh yeah, they ate the bridge too 😢

As some people might say in Scotland; "Aye, right". 😄 

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