Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

Neck splinter advice needed


Dunk
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi guys.. advice please. Bought this Cabronita bass super super cheap as a project but need advice on this neck damage (between 2nd and 3rd fret) please. No idea of the original cause of it but it’s basically a sharp splinter sticking up that needs bonding down and sanding flat somehow.. what should I use, do I need to open the crack wider to get glue/bond in deeper..? Anybody tackled something similar? All and any advice gratefully received with thanks. 

E0804015-0403-4148-80B8-A87B34774EDF.jpeg

FDCFE1F8-30E1-462F-9BC7-AC1DCD669454.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Proper people will be along soon... from a novice, i would say if you can lift the edge up with say a fine blade, then get in some warmed pva wood glue... bottle in a bowl od warm water... to help it flow... from both sides, and down from opened end... then bind till the glue dries.

Might be a bit of residue to sand down...

depending on the rest of the neck laquer and plans, maybe clear nail varnish to stop any lift and splinters?

Edited by PaulThePlug
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Although it's a more 'flying be the seat of your pants' I personally would use thin CA (cyano/superglue).  I would get a version that isn't to quick in bonding and make sure it is the water-thin type.  I would test it on some scrap wood first.  Gorilla tends to be too thick; Bostik (the 'normal' version, not the gel) tends to be about right for me.

I would mask around the area with 3M Blue decorators masking tape from Homebase (not the cheap blue knock-off from B&Q - that is dreadful stuff) and then 'wick' the superglue into the crack.  Capillary action will suck the glue deep into the crack.  I would apply plenty, but not that much that it all runs out.  Then I would hold the sliver tightly until the glue has fully grasped it.

Rubber gloves is a must and lots of ventilation - CA fumes are EVIL (and probably not at all good for you).

It's the sort of thing where I would practice it in advance so I know exactly where everything is, where and how I'm going to hold it while it's curing and even where am I going to put the bottle down before I start - even the slower stuff cures quickly and there is nothing worse than it being half-glued!  I would even try with an old fashioned wooden pencil and deliberately crack it and see how the glue reacts, how well it wicks and how long I've got.

Thinned PVA is not a bad solution, but it is very difficult to get the glue deep into the crack because it won't 'wick' in the same way.  I have used a needle-less syringe, though, in some circumstances to force thicker glue into tight cracks - even epoxy resin.  That would do a half-decent job with PVA.  I use the ones folks use to get medicines down their dogs and cats throats from ebay.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...