MoonBassAlpha Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 I'm nearly finished stripping the finish off a maple neck-through bass. I'd like to finish it in some kind of oil/wax "natural" style finish without building the colour too much, though I realise some change is pretty much inevitable. The bass has little value, so it doesn't matter too much if it turns out badly Any thoughts or previous experiences welcome please. Thanks Jules Also, any good sites recommended for buying screws that were missing when I got it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neepheid Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 [quote name='MoonBassAlpha' post='440255' date='Mar 20 2009, 01:19 PM']I'm nearly finished stripping the finish off a maple neck-through bass. I'd like to finish it in some kind of oil/wax "natural" style finish without building the colour too much, though I realise some change is pretty much inevitable. The bass has little value, so it doesn't matter too much if it turns out badly Any thoughts or previous experiences welcome please. Thanks Jules Also, any good sites recommended for buying screws that were missing when I got it?[/quote] What kind of screws? Axesrus is usually best for little fiddly things because they don't charge postage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoonBassAlpha Posted March 20, 2009 Author Share Posted March 20, 2009 Most of them! Pickup surround screws (small raised countersunk) Bridge screws (larger plain csk, only 2 out os 5 present!) in black finish. I'll check Axesrus' site, cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaggy Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 MM use gunstock oil (which I guess you'd get from a gunshop?), and doubtless there are Warwick brand finishes which probably cost the earth. On my alder Sabre I used Danish oil (any DIY shop), let it dry off overnight, finish off with beeswax polish (the proper thick stuff for antique furniture, [b]not[/b] aerosol!) and then a swift re-wax every year. Even under poly varnish maple eventually ages to a nice pale honey tone, I'd guess any oil/wax will take it a shade darker, and it brings up any "flame" in the grain a treat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 The MM Gunstock oil is Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil, marvellous stuff for oil-finishing a guitar body and neck. I have used it on quite a few builds to show off a natural wood. You can take loads and loads of very thin coats to build up quite a good gloss, but with a neck, then 5 or 6 thin coats (I'm talking wipe with a few drops on a rag here) over a weekend give s a superb silky smooth feel to a neck with protection against moisture/grease, cream crackers and tiny insects. You can buy Tru-Oil online if you don't have a repuatble gunsmiths handy. Try google or ebay. its so easy to apply, virtually idiot-proof and the discerning choice of many top luthiers, of which i wish i was one. I have finished my recent replica ricky maple build with tru-oil and it gives the maple a lovely warm glow withou much yellowing or darkening. Once fully dry, finish off with a gentle scotchbrite pad rub-down then a coat of good quality antique furniture wax, beeswax or carnauba, as Shaggy says. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Burpster Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 I use Tru oil for its intended purpose and it does a splendid job...... Off to techie land for this thread..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twigman Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com"]http://www.allparts.uk.com[/url] for all things screw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoonBassAlpha Posted March 25, 2009 Author Share Posted March 25, 2009 Cheers Ian! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prosebass Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Ronseal's Antique Oil is a mixture of Tung oil and Resins that I have used a lot successfully. You can build many coats up by thinning the first few coats with Methylated Spirit to get full penetration. You can purchase it from most DIY stores in small tins. It polishes up well on its own (due to the resins) but is better with wax. It will however darken the wood slightly. A little used oil is Olive oil which is excellent and won't color the wood much, ground-nut oil is similar. I think the only oil I have not experimented with is engine oil ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockpig Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 tung oil gives a nice finish is cheap easy to apply and food safe so you don't have to worry about getting it in your mouth. smells quite nice too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tauzero Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 [quote name='MoonBassAlpha' post='440271' date='Mar 20 2009, 01:41 PM']Most of them! Pickup surround screws (small raised countersunk) Bridge screws (larger plain csk, only 2 out os 5 present!) in black finish. I'll check Axesrus' site, cheers[/quote] There's packs of them sold [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400039024521"]on That Ebay by Janika's music shop[/url]. Looks a good price for a big bag of screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoonBassAlpha Posted March 27, 2009 Author Share Posted March 27, 2009 [quote name='tauzero' post='446007' date='Mar 26 2009, 02:13 PM']There's packs of them sold [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400039024521"]on That Ebay by Janika's music shop[/url]. Looks a good price for a big bag of screws.[/quote] That's a good call Tauzero! I've just bagged myself a, er, bag! Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaty Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 Hi MBO Depending on where you are in oxfordshire this may be of use. Gun stock oil can be got from the "country sports" shop in Witney just out the back of sainsburys. Else wise as you can borrow mine if you are passing through Oxford or Eynsham I have a pot of the stuff but as a little goes a long way I am happy to share. PM me if you are interested. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoonBassAlpha Posted April 1, 2009 Author Share Posted April 1, 2009 [quote name='Peaty' post='449854' date='Mar 30 2009, 08:09 PM']Hi MBO Depending on where you are in oxfordshire this may be of use. Gun stock oil can be got from the "country sports" shop in Witney just out the back of sainsburys. Else wise as you can borrow mine if you are passing through Oxford or Eynsham I have a pot of the stuff but as a little goes a long way I am happy to share. PM me if you are interested. Pete[/quote] Thanks for that Pete, but I've just scored some off Ebay, and it was from some country shop! I got an 8oz bottle as I wasn't sure how much I'd need for a whole bass. Sounds like it will be plenty. Still a bit of sanding to go before it goes on yet too. As soon as you get some white spirit on the bass, ALL the scratches you thought you'd got rid of seem to spring to life again. I imagine it is the same when you put the oil on? cheers MBA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaty Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Hi MBO yes I find the oil finish shows up any imperfections and missed sanding spots much more than a high gloss finish. The oil finish dosn't build a very thick layer so it just dosn't fill in the low spots. Still it looks good and is pretty easy to maintain. Plenty of thin coats are the way ahead so use sparingly. I tend to put the first few coats on using 000 gauge wire wool instead of a cloth this certainly helped get the oil right down into the pores/grain of the wood. Let the final coat cure for a week or so before you buff it up especially if you are using a wax/turpentine mix polish, a good lambs wool buffing pad and plenty of rubbing will bring up a surprisingly glossy final finish. Good luck Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 I'd be wary of Tung oil - it is a natural product and variable, and I don't think it has driers added to it like Tru-oil does. Some lots can take a long time to dry and that sticky feeling can stay for many weeks. Tru-oil is not tung oil, its got some tung in it as well as linseed (boiled) and dryers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoombung Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 Anyone used Liberon Finishing Oil? I've seen recommendations for it on Talkbass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 I used rustin's danish oil to finish my Wishbass, and everything else I've needed to finish, lots of sanding and coats looks good: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassBod Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 Yes, I use Liberon oils - great stuff. The tung oil is very easy to use and provides a good finish. You should thin the first few coats (white spirit) to get it to penetrate fully and quickly. The neutral/clear wax polish is also very good, thicker and glossier than Warwicks's beeswax, and probably at least half the price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoonBassAlpha Posted August 28, 2010 Author Share Posted August 28, 2010 I ended up using Tru Oil and it pretty much got the finish I was after. I've since used it on 2 defretted fingerboards and it can come up really nice looking. It didn't fill in the gaps on the more damaged fingerboard very well though - wish I'd used filler first. Very similar to the finish on the U.S Masters fretless neck I ordered. I wonder if that's what they use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jigster Posted August 28, 2010 Share Posted August 28, 2010 been using tru oil myself this week on an ash body - has got a lovely sheen to it. Am 9 coats down the line. How many did you do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoonBassAlpha Posted August 31, 2010 Author Share Posted August 31, 2010 [quote name='Jigster' post='938920' date='Aug 28 2010, 06:00 PM']been using tru oil myself this week on an ash body - has got a lovely sheen to it. Am 9 coats down the line. How many did you do?[/quote] Err, I did about 3 as it was a law of diminishing returns. It was a bit scrappy under the finish, so the objective was to seal it rather than make it look great, I'm not into turd-polishing. However I did do lots of layers on the fingerboard (defretted) and that did sand down to a really nice smooth finish that felt great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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