Finished Pics! Single Cut 5-string Short Scale

[Andyjr1515]

Matt and I are discussing offline the control chamber stuff and then I'll start routing some of the lightening chambers and I have some ideas what I want to do at the back. But that purpleheart is bugging me.  It will be easier if I take it off and start with some new.  To remove it, I did the same as if taking off a fretboard - a hot iron and lots of patience!

The patches are oil coming out of it.  Stinks too.  Weird when the wood to work on always seems dry as a bone.  Anyway, it's off...and the walnut is pretty flat again.

Just got to get some more purpleheart  - I'm going to try somewhere else than DD's with their leadtimes being so long at the moment...

 

 

[Andyjr1515]

18 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

I'm going to try somewhere else than DD's with their leadtimes being so long at the moment...

Actually, the folks at David Dyke have worked a bit of magic   It was going to be tricky to get the right thickness without a lot of wastage (and with DD, you know the quality is going to be good) and so I spoke to them and they have cut some for me straight away and it will be with me tomorrow.  Excellent service.

In the meantime, I'm starting to get the fretboard ready for fretting.  

I'm going to do what I have on a few other builds - using a feature-line binding that will be attached a mm beyond the rounded fret ends.  This is maple, but you get the idea:

The binding is scraped to the radius and the edges rounded, but you still end up with the fret ends inset by around 0.5 - 1mm.  What you also get for free is the demarcation line without the need to add veneers under the board 

The fretboard has been tapered at to 4mm smaller than the finished size to allow for the 2mm binding either side:

 

 

The stainless steel fretwire is here but, before I start cutting and fitting the frets, I'm going to be adding a couple of swifts at the 12th - which is tomorrow's job 

 

 

[BassTool]

On 27/04/2021 at 12:32, Andyjr1515 said:

 

 

 

There's a volute!

There's a volute!

 

Does he of this BC parish - what doth love a volute - know?!

🤭

Edited April 28, 2021 by BassTool

[Si600]

28 minutes ago, BassTool said:

There's a volute!

There's a volute!

 

Does he of this BC parish  what doth love a volute know?!

🤭

It's kind of double voluted as well, with the neck to body carve.

[SpondonBassed]

21 hours ago, BassTool said:

There's a volute!

There's a volute!

 

Does he of this BC parish - what doth love a volute - know?!

Does your granny know how to suck eggs?

[Andyjr1515]

And to the brace of swifts before the frets can go in.  Same old same old for those who've seen any of my other threads

I pencil the swifts onto the mother-of-pearl and cut them out with a jewellers saw:

 

Then work out broadly how I'm going to position them:

 

Then pencil round each one and use the Dremel precision router base and a 1mm bit to hand rout the chamber:

 

Then, with luck, they fit at the right depth - and at the right fret position    :

 

So THAT'S why he keeps going on about keeping the sanding dust!  Mixed with 30-minute Z-poxy:

Mixed well and then filling the chambers, the inlays are pushed in with the squeeze-out filling any gaps:

Then after the epoxy has hardened, sanded with the radius block.  Here is the binding I'll be using too:

So tomorrow, I don't think I have an excuse not to fit the frets...

 

[3below]

3 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Then, with luck, they fit at the right depth - and at the right fret position    :

It is a joyous moment when you realise that you have put the 12th fret inlays into your carefully slotted board at 11 or 13 (I do not remember which) .  Experience is a great thing :), it is however an experience I would rather not have again.

[Andyjr1515]

1 hour ago, 3below said:

It is a joyous moment when you realise that you have put the 12th fret inlays into your carefully slotted board at 11 or 13 (I do not remember which) .  Experience is a great thing :), it is however an experience I would rather not have again.

I can't tell you just how many times I check! 

[TheGreek]

I bought a Hohner B2 fretless in the 80s which had the first dot on the fourth fret.....apparently there were more than one marked like this.

[Andyjr1515]

The stainless fretwire comes in straight lengths and so I radius it a couple of inches tighter than the fretboard radius:

Then my standard method of:

- run lightly along the slots with a triangular needle file to take off the edges

- de-tang the ends of the cut-oversize wire

- thin bead of titebond

- hammer left, right then centre

- clamp on the radius block

- move onto the next

Here's the basic kit:

I've double-sided-taped the board to the steel fretting template to moderate the bend a touch.

Stainless is tough stuff.  I had to stretch this out over a couple of sessions with some hand-resting in between.

But, all done:

Next job is trimming the overhang to 1mm and rounding the ends before fitting the binding.  With recollections from apprenticeship days of stainless work hardening, just got to work out the best way of doing that...

 

 

[3below]

As always some really useful ideas about build methods. I am pondering stainless frets on one of my next builds but do wonder how difficult the hardness will be compared to nickel silver.  I used a stainless zero fret on the 3 string which seemed ok but that is a limited sample of one.

[Andyjr1515]

23 minutes ago, 3below said:

As always some really useful ideas about build methods. I am pondering stainless frets on one of my next builds but do wonder how difficult the hardness will be compared to nickel silver.  I used a stainless zero fret on the 3 string which seemed ok but that is a limited sample of one.

My favourite personal fretwire is EVO Gold.  I've used it since I started full builds and for all of my own builds.  I've noticed in the last couple of years more commercial boutique builders adding that as a 'feature' - so they've clearly been watching my build threads 

It is tougher than nickel silver and, particularly for acoustics, seems to add a distinct warmth to the tone.  I reckon it's about half-way between nickel silver and stainless for hardness.  It does have a light brass/gold tinge to it, though, which doesn't suit all applications.  But if you don't have an issue with the colour, I would heartily recommend it.

[TheGreek]

I still want to find somebody who makes Black frets - can't believe that they're not available.

Dragon's Den anybody?

[mhoss32]

3 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

My favourite personal fretwire is EVO Gold.  I've used it since I started full builds and for all of my own builds.  I've noticed in the last couple of years more commercial boutique builders adding that as a 'feature' - so they've clearly been watching my build threads 

It is tougher than nickel silver and, particularly for acoustics, seems to add a distinct warmth to the tone.  I reckon it's about half-way between nickel silver and stainless for hardness.  It does have a light brass/gold tinge to it, though, which doesn't suit all applications.  But if you don't have an issue with the colour, I would heartily recommend it.

+1 for the EVO gold. both of my last 2 builds ive used it and im a huge fan.

[Andyjr1515]

And so to the fret-ends and binding preparation.

As usual, folks, I'm not at all certain other builders do it this way so don't assume that it's the best way of doing it 

I have stuck the fretboard onto one of the fret-slotting templates - a useful flat and straight surface - with two-sided tape 1mm inset from the edge.  I then could use the edge as my guide to clip the overhanging fret-ends, file them and emery them so that the edges are now straight with exactly 1mm overhang:

 

 

I then used my Hoscoe crowning file to round the ends:

 

And a combination of needle files and my Chris Alsop diamond crowning file to round the sharp corners:

 

I will then use the crowning file as a former and use 400 through to 2000 emery to eliminate the scratch marks and bring the ends to a polish but, eventually, the binding will fit like this, giving me a 0.5 - 1.0mm overhang and instant white/black stripe demarcation line  :

 

 

 

[Andyjr1515]

For fitting the binding so that is it snug against the bottoms of the fret-ends, I find that the easiest way is to put the fretboard back onto the metal fret slotting template and then I know the bottom of the binding is going to be flat against the neck when it's fitted and then I shave the top of the binding until it pushes tightly under the protruding fret ends.

For this little job - sanding is no good because you don't want a rounded edge - I find it easiest to put my block plane upside down into the bench vice and then draw the top of the binding along the blade:

 

That done, titebond and plenty of spool clamps for a tight fit:

 

And done.  They will be scraped with a single edged razor blade to take the glue line off and add the continuation of the radius, which will make them pretty invisible, and the top corners will be rounded off after fitting to the neck.  The bindings are around 0.5mm proud of the fret-ends:

Next job is to thickness the replacement purpleheart and glue it to the neck/wings assembly.

As always, many thanks for looking

 

 

Edited May 4, 2021 by Andyjr1515

[SpondonBassed]

Clever bounder!

[Andyjr1515]

And the purpleheart laths have been thicknessed and jointed and the first two being glued.

Why the sash clamps?

Well, the jointing meant that the mating faces of the two purpleheart laths were pretty perfect.  Then, when I popped the glue on to glue them in position, one was like a banana!  So the sash clamps are there to hold them straight for a decent lath to lath joint and the G clamps are for a good wing to lath joint.  I've never come across such glue warping before with purpleheart - but it does probably explain why it warped the top when I first glued them on that!

Any other builders come across this issue?

Anyway, I'll do the remaining laths one at a time - and with the sash clamps for good measure - so they are always each gluing to their previously hard glued colleagues

 

Note, by the way, the SW BassBash mug still in good use @scrumpymike !   Should be in good use again later in the year

 

 

Edited May 4, 2021 by Andyjr1515

[Andyjr1515]

A little bit of scraping to get rid of the glue squeeze-out and tidy some of the joins, but this is much better than before...and it's flat 

 

It's now trimmed to the final oversize before the final shaping rout that will happen once the top is glued on, using the top as the routing guide (yes, I know... )  .  The fretboard overhang will be shortened and possibly shaped, depending on @Matt P 's preferences:

Just got to finalise and cut the control, cable and weight-relief chambers and then the top can be glued on.  Next jobs!   Oh - that and ordering the 5 string Superquad...

Edited May 6, 2021 by Andyjr1515

[spacecowboy]

This is looking so so good

[Matt P]

Having watched so many of Andy's builds over the years I can't quite believe that this one will be mine, i'm not sure it will actually sink in till I get it in my hands! 

[Andyjr1515]

And so to chambers.

In many ways, the most important chamber is the control chamber.  The internal layout is going to be something along these lines.  Plus, of course, the Apollo space-capsule type multi-wire loom driving the Superquad :

 

So the hatch will be something like this:

And yes - that top line IS parallel with the neck laths...it's the wide angle lens distorting 

So I'm going to try something I've never done before.  You know when you see someone do something that you think "Wow - why didn't I think of that??"   Well, with me, that's usually something that @Jabba_the_gut 's done...but just so he doesn't get too smug - this time it's Fodera.  

 

So probably won't work when I try to do it   

[Andyjr1515]

It all started with this photo (which I think is a Fodera):

Note the hatch?  More to the point, the grain on the hatch...  It's cut out of the back - you can tell by the grain.  Now, I'm sure that Fodera would use a CNC to cut it so fine and accurately.  Well, I haven't got a CNC.  But I DO have something much more useful - a vivid imagination and a flagrant disregard of my own abilities 

Lots of pics here, but that's a lot easier than trying to describe it all:

 

I used a paper template to mark out the hatch and cut around the shape of the oversize body.  I put a crease in where the top would come to to ensure I wasn't too close to the edge:

 

I then pencilled some datum marks on, lined up the template and drew the same hatch on the other side:

 

Then got out the trusty Dremel in its precision base and a 1mm router bit...that would give me a bit of wiggle room for an eventual 1.5mm gap:

 

I did a number of passes, ending up with a 4mm deep slot:

Ooops - pressed the wrong button! 

 

 

Edited May 7, 2021 by Andyjr1515

[Andyjr1515]

I did a number of passes, ending up with a 4mm deep slot:

 

Then, from the other side, cut the chamber as I do my pickup chambers nowadays...starting with a Forstner to part-depth:

 

Then chiselled the periphery to act as a guide for the bearing on a top-bearing router bit:

 

So now, and only now, when it is captive and can't go anywhere because of the bearing, out can come the horrible hand router... :

 

...to tidy up the sides and gradually deepen the body until breakthrough!  :

 

And, with a mm adjustment of my chisel line eventually release.  And we have a grain matching, 3mm thick back cover 

 

I think the phrase, 'Well, you could knock me down with a feather!' springs to mind.  I wasn't expecting that!!!

Time for a cup of tea, I reckon....

 

 

[ezbass]

👏👏👏 Vinny Fodera can go suck an egg! Andyjr1515 FTW!