Best Wireless System?

[hiram.k.hackenbacker]

1 minute ago, Kev said:

Yeah it's the jack to mini xlr type.  You don't need the Shure cable, there are a few cable builders who sell suitable ones on Amazon and the like, from one of which I bought a spare.  No issues though  Not really sure how it would fail really.  I guess if you stretch it or mess with it, but my pack is kept in a pocket on my strap, so the plugs are never pulled or stretched in any way.

Ah, I see. Sounds like the issues they had were from their own doing. Can't hurt to have a back up wireless system can it? 😀

[MacDaddy]

10 hours ago, MacDaddy said:

i've just ordered these: Not on 2.4Ghz or 5 Ghz frequencies. I'll let you know how i get on.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B089W449Z3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AYD48U20RPEWO&psc=1

They arrived earlier, and fully charged.

First impressions, they seem a tad more substantial than my other budget wireless (Xvive, Dinner, Getaria) and the sound quality seems to be better, although at the moment I'm just playing through headphones.

There are some nice touches, like the battery indicator and the matching green 'on' light. The hinge has sufficient resistance so that it stays where you fold it.

Here's the biggie though, there is some interference when my phone is near, although to be fair I only noticed it when my phone was next to the receiver.

 

[EBS_freak]

I actually checked out their (slow) webpage and the M3 got my interest. It's basically a rip of the Wireless Rode Go (just under 150 quid). Can't find anywhere selling it though to get a price! 

[fleabag]

I gots me one of these.  Utterly brilliant.   Beats the previous Xvives i had by a country mile.

 

https://www.pmtonline.co.uk/line-6-relay-g75

 

 

[hiram.k.hackenbacker]

5 hours ago, fleabag said:

I gots me one of these.  Utterly brilliant.   Beats the previous Xvives i had by a country mile.

https://www.pmtonline.co.uk/line-6-relay-g75

Snap. Exactly what I have 👍

[fleabag]

You have exquisite taste, sah

[dand666]

So I still haven't purchased one yet and with all my weekends booked out come July I need to hurry.

 

So in the Sennheiser camp we have this: https://en-uk.sennheiser.com/xsw-d-pedalboard-set

Any other recommendations from Sennheiser? They have so many on there site it's confusing >.<

 

In the Shure camp https://www.shure.com/en-GB/products/wireless-systems/glx-d_digital_wireless/glxd16-guitar-pedal-set

Again any other ones from Shure?

 

And then from Line 6 - am I guessing the g75 is the best?

 

Ideally the Shure at £429 is the max I wanna pay, but would love to get one cheaper.

[mike257]

This: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234013379072

Plus ~£20 for the jack to locking mini jack cable. 

[EBS_freak]

1 minute ago, mike257 said:

This: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234013379072

Plus ~£20 for the jack to locking mini jack cable. 

plus shared mic license

[gazhowe]

On 05/06/2021 at 15:50, hiram.k.hackenbacker said:

Have you tried swapping channels? It sounds like something is interfering with the one you are using.

Yes, I have tried swapping channels and using the Auto/channel scan option but I’m still getting the dropouts unfortunately.

I suspect you’re right about interference. I don’t have the same issue with the Sennheiser XSW-D in the exact same location so I guess that is better at rejecting interference than the G10S.
 

The Sennheiser will be on my pedalboard for live use and I’ll keep the G10S as I can live with the dropouts for home practice. 

[gazhowe]

On 05/06/2021 at 19:10, Woodinblack said:

Well, if you go to the line6 page, as I did yesterday to redownload helix native, you are met by a big banner saying:

IMPORTANT SAFETY ALERT: FIRE HAZARD REGARDING RELAY^® G10 TRANSMITTER

CORRECTIVE ACTION REQUIRED IMMEDIATELY FOR RELAY G10, RELAY G10S, AND RELAY G10T WIRELESS PRODUCTS PURCHASED PRIOR TO MARCH 2020. 

SEVERAL INSTANCES OF EXTREME OVERHEATING AND A RISK OF FIRE PRESENTED BY THE RELAY G10T WIRELESS TRANSMITTER HAVE BEEN REPORTED SINCE THE PRODUCT WAS INTRODUCED IN 2016. ALL INSTANCES OF OVERHEATING REPORTEDLY OCCURRED DURING CHARGING

Thanks for the heads up. I’ve upgraded the firmware so there’s less chance of bursting into flames but no improvement on the dropouts. 😆

[Al Krow]

Boss WL-20s - couple of earlier questions on this thread about using with an active bass.

Spotted an interesting thing (fortunately just before trying them out for the first time at a band rehearsal this evening!) - if the jack is inserted in the active bass I'm using today with the Boss logo on facing up it works beautifully. Rotate it 180^O and it's silent!

Dunno if anyone else has experienced anything similar?

[Woodinblack]

17 minutes ago, Al Krow said:

Boss WL-20s - couple of earlier questions on this thread about using with an active bass.

Spotted an interesting thing (fortunately just before trying them out for the first time at a band rehearsal this evening!) - if the jack is inserted in the active bass I'm using today with the Boss logo on facing up it works beautifully. Rotate it 180^O and it's silent!

Thats very peculiar? Are the rings on the WL20 not solid all the way round, like is there any difference between the surface on both sides of the plug?

 

[Al Krow]

4 minutes ago, Woodinblack said:

That's very peculiar? Are the rings on the WL20 not solid all the way round, like is there any difference between the surface on both sides of the plug?

Just checked - nothing obvious. Looks the same all the way round on the WL-20. Maybe something internal on the jack socket then?

[Woodinblack]

Just now, Al Krow said:

Just checked - nothing obvious. Looks the same all the way round on the WL-20. Maybe something internal on the jack socket then?

Well, it *should* make no difference if the plug is the same all the way round - I mean how would the socket know that the plug was the other way round. Unless the hole of the socket itsn't round or the plug isn't round, it should be the same.

[BassAdder60]

Doesn’t the Boss unit have a small pin that depresses when you insert Jack ?

Maybe in one position this isn’t being depressed? 

[Al Krow]

1 hour ago, BassAdder27 said:

Doesn’t the Boss unit have a small pin that depresses when you insert Jack ?

Maybe in one position this isn’t being depressed? 

Very true about the pin. But it stays depressed at all rotations and the light stays on throughout. So I suspect that there is something going on with the internal lead socket. 

Be interesting if anyone else has this same behaviour (or if any other issues) with their WL-20s? 

Btw mine behaved fine at rehearsal tonight (and I made sure they transmitter was the right way up!)

[hiram.k.hackenbacker]

5 hours ago, Al Krow said:

Very true about the pin. But it stays depressed at all rotations and the light stays on throughout. So I suspect that there is something going on with the internal lead socket. 

Be interesting if anyone else has this same behaviour (or if any other issues) with their WL-20s? 

Btw mine behaved fine at rehearsal tonight (and I made sure they transmitter was the right way up!)

It does sound very odd. Could it be that there is a slight bend to the Jack on the transmitter or (more likely) that it doesn’t protrude at 90 degrees from the transmitter? Does it happen in just this bass or is it the same in others?

[Woodinblack]

So does a normal plug when put in and rotated 180 degrees drop out at all?

[Al Krow]

3 hours ago, hiram.k.hackenbacker said:

It does sound very odd. Could it be that there is a slight bend to the Jack on the transmitter or (more likely) that it doesn’t protrude at 90 degrees from the transmitter? Does it happen in just this bass or is it the same in others?

32 minutes ago, Woodinblack said:

So does a normal plug when put in and rotated 180 degrees drop out at all?

So I've retested as follows:

Elrick - twist the transmitter and you hear a definite "pop" on the amp & cab with the WL-20 cutting out / back in. Normal lead doesn't cut out at all when twisted the full 360.

Spector - no cut out of the WL-20 when rotated.

So for me this is just an issue (so far) with the Elrick and I'm guessing something to do with the internal jack lead in the Elrick.

What's interesting is that other folk have previously reported issues with their active basses with the WL-20 and I wonder if they are getting the same thing?

[EBS_freak]

54 minutes ago, Al Krow said:

So I've retested as follows:

Elrick - twist the transmitter and you hear a definite "pop" on the amp & cab with the WL-20 cutting out / back in. Normal lead doesn't cut out at all when twisted the full 360.

Spector - no cut out of the WL-20 when rotated.

So for me this is just an issue (so far) with the Elrick and I'm guessing something to do with the internal jack lead in the Elrick.

What's interesting is that other folk have previously reported issues with their active basses with the WL-20 and I wonder if they are getting the same thing?

Whats the jack look like on the Elrick. Lets see if we can identify it so we can look at it's construction and attempt to figure out what is unique about it that causes this drop out.

[Woodinblack]

1 hour ago, Al Krow said:

What's interesting is that other folk have previously reported issues with their active basses with the WL-20 and I wonder if they are getting the same thing?

The issues I have seen with active basses are down to the polarity of the wiring.

For the general active bass to power on when plugged in, the preamp takes power from the battery and the ground on the bass. The negative of the battery only goes to the jack socket. If you are using a stereo (TRS) socket, and you plug in a mono plug, as you would generally do, it shorts the ring and the shield together, as the mono plug doesn't have  a ring. Therefore, if you connect the ground of the bass to the sheild, and the ring to the battery negative, then plugging in switches on. However, some basses put the negative to the shield and the ground to the ring, because in 99% of cases, it really doesn't matter, the short is both ways.

In the case of the WL20, it actually has a TRS plug, which it uses for power, so to enable the bass to switch on it has to route the negative of the battery on the tip to the shield, which it obviously does as it works. I heard cases that at least originally, it didn't work with basses that were the other way round.

[MacDaddy]

On 05/06/2021 at 22:29, MacDaddy said:

They arrived earlier, and fully charged.

First impressions, they seem a tad more substantial than my other budget wireless (Xvive, Dinner, Getaria) and the sound quality seems to be better, although at the moment I'm just playing through headphones.

There are some nice touches, like the battery indicator and the matching green 'on' light. The hinge has sufficient resistance so that it stays where you fold it.

Here's the biggie though, there is some interference when my phone is near, although to be fair I only noticed it when my phone was next to the receiver.

 

 

I used them at an audition on Tuesday night albeit on guitar not bass. There was a tad of interference (drop out) which depended on where I was standing, moving sorted it though.

Noticeable sound difference - i.e. better - when I switched to my OBBM lead. I think they are going to be adequate on a bigger stage, and fine for home use. You gets what you pay for.

 

[EBS_freak]

9 minutes ago, MacDaddy said:

 

I used them at an audition on Tuesday night albeit on guitar not bass. There was a tad of interference (drop out) which depended on where I was standing, moving sorted it though.

Noticeable sound difference - i.e. better - when I switched to my OBBM lead. I think they are going to be adequate on a bigger stage, and fine for home use. You gets what you pay for.

 

Was the drop out a clean drop out, or a fuzzy drop out?

[MacDaddy]

1 hour ago, EBS_freak said:

Was the drop out a clean drop out, or a fuzzy drop out?

sort of fuzzy, but similar to how a CD sounds when it's skipping.