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Posted (edited)
7 minutes ago, HazBeen said:

@spacecowboy what finish did you use on this bass? I simply have to try it on my next bass.

 

On 17/07/2021 at 20:37, spacecowboy said:

The exciting news is I've lacquered the bass, I've been wanting to do this for ages, the weather has been absolutely perfect for it so perfect chance to get this done. The white spots all over the shielding paint is resin polish, it'll wipe off later. 

 

Hope this helps.

Edited by SpondonBassed
Posted
52 minutes ago, HazBeen said:
53 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said:

 thanks, I want to know what lacquer was used. Think I know, but want to be sure :) 

Hi Haz,

 

So it was https://www.colron.co.uk/products/colron-refined-range/interior-lacquer/ which I've used previously, it's brilliant stuff, easy to apply and finishes nicely.

 

I then put some Autoglym Super Resin Polish on the top of that, even though it's for car paintwork it buffs up super nice with minimal effort

 

Looking forward to what you come up with next! 

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Posted

Much appreciated! I suspected it was a water based lacquer, I will finish my current bass project body (which will be stained black) with Colron if I can find it. Otherwise I have a local alternative in mind.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Sad update! 

 

The bridge in this guise just doesn't work, I've let the bass settle and set it up, I can get a great action and the level of adjust ability is perfect, but the problem is the saddles and them locking in to the side walls of the timber, over time they are slipping causing unreliable intonation, worse still if the grub screw has bitten in to the timber and then slipped it becomes slightly loose and then you get an awful buzz ringing from the loose component while the string moves, so a bit of a disaster. 

 

To get a metal bridge milled to my design  is too much money and there's no guarantee of success and an off the shelf bridge doesn't work due to how my strings are loaded through the body so I'm a little  bit stuck. 

 

The only thing to really do here is to accept that this build wasn't successful, but was a hell of a lot of fun and I've learned so much. 

 

I'm going to start a new build of this design soon with a bought bridge and nut and less of the conceptual elements. 

 

This one is done, but expect a new diary soon, I'm off to shop woods! 

Posted

Could you rescue it with a bridge and tailpiece like a Warwick and either fill the string through holes or leave them as a feature? Pop some LEDs in them 😉

Posted

Once the intonation and strings heights are set, you could do a totally fixed bridge à la F-Bass or acoustic guitar. That would be a very good solution.

  • Like 1
Posted
41 minutes ago, spacecowboy said:

The bridge in this guise just doesn't work, I've let the bass settle and set it up, I can get a great action and the level of adjust ability is perfect, but the problem is the saddles and them locking in to the side walls of the timber, over time they are slipping causing unreliable intonation, worse still if the grub screw has bitten in to the timber and then slipped it becomes slightly loose and then you get an awful buzz ringing from the loose component while the string moves, so a bit of a disaster. 

These sorts of things are part of the 'nothing ventured, nothing gained' so it's worth walking away from it for a day or two to let your sub-conscience work through it a bit.

 

That bridge looks as cool as fu a cucumber.  And, actually, you know the intonation positions for the strings you are using.  If it was me, I'd just super glue them in position... 

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Posted
Just now, Andyjr1515 said:

That bridge looks as cool as fu a cucumber.  And, actually, you know the intonation positions for the strings you are using.  If it was me, I'd just super glue them in position... 

Just seen @Hellzero 's post...he said the same thing but a bit more politely  :D

 

Posted
3 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

If it was me, I'd just super glue them in position... 

And actually, just a teeny drop of superglue at that, like on a nut - remember that the force on them is downwards, so there's nothing that is trying to move them once the string tension's on them.  Doesn't need a lot of CA to stop them dropping out or moving when you take the strings off.  Then, in the unlikely event of changing string type, you can just tap loose any that need repositioning and adjust and reglue. 

  • Like 1
Posted
5 minutes ago, spacecowboy said:

I like these ideas! super glue to the rescue?! 

 

Let me try that tomorrow!! 

CA glue, no brainer. Will solve it 100%.

  • Like 1
Posted
21 minutes ago, spacecowboy said:

I like these ideas! super glue to the rescue?! 

 

Let me try that tomorrow!! 

There goes my chance of picking it up for a pittance :(

  • Haha 2

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