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String Gauges: 45-100 vs 45-105


Stub Mandrel

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I’ve always favoured 45-100 as, to my mind at least, it brings more evenness in tone across the strings with the D&G being, on first glance, heavier in overall terms than the E&A. This may all be complete BS, but it’s how I thought about it when I first started out and I haven’t changed since then (except for strings that came with a bass or were free).

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I use the lightest gauge I can.

Recently fitted a 5 string set of Tapewounds (40-120) to my Yamaha BBG5S and they're amazing. Most of my 4 strings wear either 35 or 40 -100 gauge strings - I don't notice any loss of tone but (believe I) can feel the benefit of lighter strings.

 

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22 minutes ago, BillyBass said:

I stick to 105 for the E string because I believe it will handle being dropped to D better.  Am I wrong?

There's not really a "right or wrong", I'd say it's more down to personal preference. 

Also,  not all brands/types of construction behave or feel the same when drop-tuned.

I'm perfectly ok with my 100 E string dropped to D on a 4 string,  I just need to remember that the tension has lessened a bit and not to dig in too much.

That said,  I play 5s more frequently,  so the issue doesn't arise much.

Edited by Lfalex v1.1
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Hmm... I've ordered a set of each. In still need to make up my mind.

I've had an audition postponed ... if the 105's come in time I might fit them.

I must admit, although I love stainless Rotos and Elites, the Fender nickels seem to keep a great tone for a very long time.

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29 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Hmm... I've ordered a set of each. In still need to make up my mind.

I've had an audition postponed ... if the 105's come in time I might fit them.

I must admit, although I love stainless Rotos and Elites, the Fender nickels seem to keep a great tone for a very long time.

I had some Fender strings on my old S1 Jazz (as one might expect!) Think they were 7130s or 7160s. No idea what they were material-wise,  but they lasted ages,  as did the DR Sunbeams that replaced them. 

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Wowsy... that was traumatic.

I cut the G-string a tad short, and the bevelled edges of the '62-style tuners wouldn't grip enough so the string kept slipping.

Discretion being the better part of valour I decided it was time to replace the strings on my Jag SS instead 🙂

No problem until the E except when I bent it, it snapped clean off. Second time I didn't bend as tight... and it snapped where it bent around the tuner. Luckily I cut it long and despite losing a fair length on a third attempt it wound on OK. Playing with the cut off section, it doesn't seem as brittle so I wonder if there was a short section of poorly tempered string?

The (stock) strings I took off were a no thicker and maybe a tiny touch thinner, so maybe 95s, an odd choice for short scale bass!

One positive. I initially tuned the A and E without reference to anything and they were both no more than half a tone sharp. I haven't got perfect pitch but it seems to be improving :-)

 

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On 13/05/2021 at 21:23, Stub Mandrel said:

Playing with the cut off section, it doesn't seem as brittle so I wonder if there was a short section of poorly tempered string?

Quite possibly, I know there are people who think the earth will explode if you use long scale strings on a short scale but in decades of playing bass I have always used long scale strings on short scales with no issues

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On 13/05/2021 at 16:29, ezbass said:

I’ve always favoured 45-100 as, to my mind at least, it brings more evenness in tone across the strings with the D&G being, on first glance, heavier in overall terms than the E&A. This may all be complete BS, but it’s how I thought about it when I first started out and I haven’t changed since then (except for strings that came with a bass or were free).

My single data point: My TRBX came with Daddario 45-65-80-100.

The G and D seemed excessively bright relative to the A and E. By changing the lower two to -85-105, I made them more taut and thus brighter; the evenness across the instrument improved (that's a very subjective thing to say, I know!)

I could have dropped the G and D to 40-60- to achieve the same thing, but decided I like a nice taut string :) 

-------

edit: immediately after writing that, I picked up my BB, which is strung with the traditional Rotosound 66 set: 45-65-80-105. Since I was still thinking about what I had written, I noticed that the relatively lighter gauge A lacks the bite that the other 3 strings have, and has a warmer, more bottom-heavy tone. 

Edited by Ricky Rioli
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On a bass with a thin neck, a .100 set will not pull on the neck as much. The truss rod is supposed to offset this tension but a .100 set will pull around 40 lbs. less than a .105 set (according to a D'Addariro chart I saw ). My Mustang PJ came with .105 and I will stick to that, maybe stainless for more twang.

 

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12 hours ago, shoulderpet said:

Quite possibly, I know there are people who think the earth will explode if you use long scale strings on a short scale but in decades of playing bass I have always used long scale strings on short scales with no issues

Well even long scale strings need to be cut to fit most basses...

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If I'm buying strings as a set then I use 45,65,85,105 but if I am putting a set together then I choose 45,60,80,110 as they are the closest gauges readily available to match the tension. For a 5 string I always try to get a 130 low B in a set if I can

The 110 allows me to drop the E down to B if I need it.

I always use D'addarios and depending on the bass EXLs, Prosteels or Chromes

I've tried really light strings and really heavy strings but these feel the best to me

Edited by Delberthot
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On 13/05/2021 at 15:51, Stub Mandrel said:

With a 100 E string I can do a full tone bend from E up to A, but not with a 105.

If I drop to the lighter strings, will I lose bottom end grunt?

Do you mean G to A?

 

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