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stop oiling your fretboards


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3 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Basically it's light mineral oil with a bit of scent.

As snake oil is basically light mineral oil with a scent added, yes you probably can say D65 is snake oil.

Ha-Ha, here's me focusing on the positive again, thanks!

Try telling a player they don't need a gigantuan Orange Drop Capacitor & you'll get the haughty look of derision.

😀

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2 hours ago, Killed_by_Death said:

 

I promise, this will be the last time:

What we don't need is folks sharing their harmful marinade recipes 😀

OK, I'm over that now. 

 

What about using Lemon oil to marinate your meat?

EDITED TO SAY: That was not intended as a euphemism !!

EDITED AGAIN: (or was it?)

Edited by Count Bassy
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This one has gone so well that my next thread will be about how you're all enjoying Music incorrectly since 13-Feb-70 (Friday the 13th) 🤣

Mineral oil has a 7 pH, which is neutral, so it would do nothing for tenderizing meat, but the lemon fragrance would probably taste awful.

FWIW, the pH of Vinegar = 2.5 (0 = extremely acidic)

pH of lemon juice = 2

 

 

Edited by Killed_by_Death
fudged the date, somehow
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13 hours ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Dunlop 65...

White Mineral Oils >90% 5 mg/m3 5 mg/m3® 8042-47-5

 

Basically it's light mineral oil with a bit of scent.

I found this: https://images.thomann.de/pics/atg/atgdata/document/specs/189610_safety_data_sheet.pdf

Confirming that figure of it being mostly mineral oil.

I think if 5 or 10% is not listed I wouldn't want whatever is in it being absorbed by my skin. If they don't list the ingredients they can switch them or alter the concentrations without letting you know, so those who had no reaction to it before may have a reaction to a slightly different blend. It doesn't appear at all dangerous, but I'll stick with known ingredients with their risks - a tiny bit of linseed oil as a cosmetic aid, it's a bit of fire hazard but you can deal with that by laying flat etc.

https://www.bartoline.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/BARTOLINE-Raw-Linseed-Oil-SDS4843.pdf

I think the boiled stuff is a lot handier, but contains far less healthy ingredients, you'd want it to harden fully before touching it with bare skin.

https://www.bartoline.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/BARTOLINE-Boiled-Linseed-Oil-SDS4832.pdf

Mentions the typical catalysts that are added you probably don't want to expose yourself to. Obviously breathing it might be substantially worse, depending on the amount of ventilation.

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14 minutes ago, PlungerModerno said:

Confirming that figure of it being mostly mineral oil.

I think if 5 or 10% is not listed I wouldn't want whatever is in it being absorbed by my skin. If they don't list the ingredients they can switch them or alter the concentrations without letting you know, so those who had no reaction to it before may have a reaction to a slightly different blend. It doesn't appear at all dangerous, but I'll stick with known ingredients with their risks - a tiny bit of linseed oil as a cosmetic aid, it's a bit of fire hazard but you can deal with that by laying flat etc.

That's where I got it from.

The >90% really means <100%

Other components not being listed means they are both not considered hazardous and in very small quantities, in this case I believe it's limonene, probably in well <1% quantities.

If the SDS was more up to date it would probably be listed.

I don't like linseed oil myself as it's effectively a varnish. Raw and traditionally produced 'boiled linseed oil' should be safe, but that produced by industrial processes isn't boiled but has plasticisers and  other potential nasties in it. Check out the Bartoline (made using a metal catalyst) MSDS and compare it to the Rustins one.

 

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1 hour ago, Killed_by_Death said:

 

You also can't stop the oil from leeching down into the fret-slots.

good times!

😀

It’s not leached. If anything, it’ll be capillary action. 

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A friend of mine who is a garage mechanic uses WD40 liberally as a kind of ‘fast fret’ treatment on his guitars. On his early 90s maple-board Strat you can see dark marks running from each fret where it has wicked into the wood grain.

 I would imagine lemon oil is much less likely to penetrate the wood though.

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I thought WD-40 started as fish oil or peanut oil, but now it's a Petroleum based oil, which is just plain bad for wood. You wouldn't rub Vaseline on there, would you?

I'm sure if someone explained this to the mechanic, it wouldn't matter, much like it hasn't mattered for some naysayers in this thread, LOL!

 

BTW the WD in WD-40 = Water Displacement

since water & oil won't mix

which is just supporting my ongoing assertion that oil doesn't moisturize

 

Edited by Killed_by_Death
added blurb about WD-40
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1 hour ago, JapanAxe said:

A friend of mine who is a garage mechanic uses WD40 liberally as a kind of ‘fast fret’ treatment on his guitars. On his early 90s maple-board Strat you can see dark marks running from each fret where it has wicked into the wood grain.

 I would imagine lemon oil is much less likely to penetrate the wood though.

I saw the Hamsters once and 'Snail's Pace Slim' (Barry Martin) sprayed his guitar's neck with WD40 between every song.

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30 minutes ago, Killed_by_Death said:

 

It gets in there, the means doesn't really matter.

Being dismissive of something trivial is my thing 😀

Plainly so. However, if you’re going to hold court in the manner which has been displayed herein, I thought having the correct terminology might be useful.

Leech - an aquatic or terrestrial annelid worm with suckers at both ends.

Leach - (with reference to a soluble chemical or mineral) to drain away from soil, ash, or similar material by the action of percolating liquid, especially rainwater.

 

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