Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

Neck Body Join - P Bitsa - Luthier Woodworker Help or Advice Required


PaulThePlug
 Share

Recommended Posts

Slim Jazz Bass Neck (Heel width listed as 63.8mm) would like to meet Sporty Rear Rout P Bass Body (Pocket width listed as 63mm) for a lovely fit at the heel. (No Scratchplates or Pickguards please)... and I realy don't want a c0ck up on the first date!

 

So any Basschat Luthiers, Budding Bass Builders or Woodworkers in South East London / Kent BR6 area-ish willing to take a look, assist or advise?... Please... Someone must be local and know-their-onions...Heal.thumb.jpg.ca48558050653200ab560df258af90ab.jpgNeckL.thumb.jpg.bbb5e08d53d929daaa54587b1ca8a8cd.jpgNeckR.thumb.jpg.731fee29b0024addd23bcc33a7997f9f.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by PaulThePlug
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • PaulThePlug changed the title to Neck Body Join - P Bitsa - Luthier Woodworker Help or Advice Required

Make a paper template of the body neck pocket. Tape a sheet of paper on the body above the neck pocket and trace the body neck pocket. Carefully cut out the trace and stick it to the underside of the neck. Make sure you stick the tracing the RIGHT SIDE UP. Pencil mark the neck joint to depth of the neck pocket and take time gently sanding the neck down to match the tracing.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So you recon sand the neck, rather than the body? I thought mod the body due to the necks taper.

 

I had a little look last night, but 'tother way round, I drew round the neck heel, cut out, and offered the gap upto the body pocket... and as the neck and pocket are on a taper just sorting the heel profile may help a bit.

 

Paper was too flimsy, i'll try both ways with thin card later..

 

But, If anyone is localish i could drop it off to for a proper job it would be most welcome...

Edited by PaulThePlug
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, PaulThePlug said:

So you recon sand the neck, rather than the body?

With any Bitsa build there will be the need for a little gentle fettling. Unless you purchase matched components, eg Northwest Neck & body or Fender neck & Body. As an amateur I just find it easier to gently sand the neck rather than the body neck pocket. Clearly if you plan to "part out" the Bitsa at a later date one of the parts is not going to be absolutely standard. I believe there will always be some slight variations in the profile of neck ends and body neck pockets but getting them to fit and look good is all part of the Bitsa Building experience. It maybe worthwhile comparing the neck end and the body pocket profiles to a standard pickguard to see which is the closest. I have found that a good fitting pickguard can hide many poor neck/body joints 😂   

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, Good idea, I'll take a look at a picguard template, see which is closerish... but got a rear rout body, as I don't want a guard... just plain wood.

Might be off the end of the neck for profile, and off the body walls for width.

 

Oh well wasn't in a rush! and i'll wait a while before picking up the dremel if i need to..

 

Please keep the advice 'n guidance coming

Edited by PaulThePlug
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It doesn’t really matter with a bitsa where you are unlikely to be swopping the neck often, but generally (not always) the necks tend to be the more accurate and so it is the pocket that is generally sanded.

That said, it is slightly more difficult. I us a fairly coarse paper and wrap it round a flat bottomed pencil or similar to allow me to apply pressure but keep the surface straight.

It takes patience but you do get there eventually ;)

If you do go for the neck, use a cork block or similar, again to allow pressure to be applied but keeping the surface flat. 
Brush or vac the paper regularly to stop the paper getting clogged. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all for the above... and after a look about on 'tube...

Looking at the neck and degree of finish, and it being the sticky up and out bit... and dont want to spoil the taper, or catch the fretboard... I think i will Danish Oil the neck, then use the finished neck to re-size the neck pocket.

A little of the more of the shorter small G side... i think there is a proper name for this bit... to keep a nice neck n body edge with no step, and more of the longer larger side, and as best at the heel, sanding the body to match the neck, as i can go with a grade or so courser sandpaper, with any damage or error less likely to show.

 

Again, any local expers willing to help, please shout! Gonna have a search on the net for local cabinet makers and sound a couple out.

 

Still waiting on the Bridge, Tuners and  Neckplate, Pickup etc... so a slow one...

 

EDIT: Neck Join now sorted thanks to a local Cabinet Maker... Good 'ol Yellow Pages... well Google.

Heel.thumb.jpg.a9e422b4d554f096204e01c25b9ed4f2.jpg

Edited by PaulThePlug
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...