PaulThePlug Posted July 27, 2021 Share Posted July 27, 2021 (edited) Slim Jazz Bass Neck (Heel width listed as 63.8mm) would like to meet Sporty Rear Rout P Bass Body (Pocket width listed as 63mm) for a lovely fit at the heel. (No Scratchplates or Pickguards please)... and I realy don't want a c0ck up on the first date! So any Basschat Luthiers, Budding Bass Builders or Woodworkers in South East London / Kent BR6 area-ish willing to take a look, assist or advise?... Please... Someone must be local and know-their-onions... Edited July 27, 2021 by PaulThePlug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnDaBass Posted July 28, 2021 Share Posted July 28, 2021 Make a paper template of the body neck pocket. Tape a sheet of paper on the body above the neck pocket and trace the body neck pocket. Carefully cut out the trace and stick it to the underside of the neck. Make sure you stick the tracing the RIGHT SIDE UP. Pencil mark the neck joint to depth of the neck pocket and take time gently sanding the neck down to match the tracing. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulThePlug Posted July 28, 2021 Author Share Posted July 28, 2021 (edited) So you recon sand the neck, rather than the body? I thought mod the body due to the necks taper. I had a little look last night, but 'tother way round, I drew round the neck heel, cut out, and offered the gap upto the body pocket... and as the neck and pocket are on a taper just sorting the heel profile may help a bit. Paper was too flimsy, i'll try both ways with thin card later.. But, If anyone is localish i could drop it off to for a proper job it would be most welcome... Edited July 28, 2021 by PaulThePlug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnDaBass Posted July 28, 2021 Share Posted July 28, 2021 9 minutes ago, PaulThePlug said: So you recon sand the neck, rather than the body? With any Bitsa build there will be the need for a little gentle fettling. Unless you purchase matched components, eg Northwest Neck & body or Fender neck & Body. As an amateur I just find it easier to gently sand the neck rather than the body neck pocket. Clearly if you plan to "part out" the Bitsa at a later date one of the parts is not going to be absolutely standard. I believe there will always be some slight variations in the profile of neck ends and body neck pockets but getting them to fit and look good is all part of the Bitsa Building experience. It maybe worthwhile comparing the neck end and the body pocket profiles to a standard pickguard to see which is the closest. I have found that a good fitting pickguard can hide many poor neck/body joints 😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulThePlug Posted July 28, 2021 Author Share Posted July 28, 2021 (edited) Thanks, Good idea, I'll take a look at a picguard template, see which is closerish... but got a rear rout body, as I don't want a guard... just plain wood. Might be off the end of the neck for profile, and off the body walls for width. Oh well wasn't in a rush! and i'll wait a while before picking up the dremel if i need to.. Please keep the advice 'n guidance coming Edited July 28, 2021 by PaulThePlug 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulThePlug Posted July 28, 2021 Author Share Posted July 28, 2021 (edited) Neck heel template on body... Edited July 29, 2021 by PaulThePlug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 29, 2021 Share Posted July 29, 2021 It doesn’t really matter with a bitsa where you are unlikely to be swopping the neck often, but generally (not always) the necks tend to be the more accurate and so it is the pocket that is generally sanded. That said, it is slightly more difficult. I us a fairly coarse paper and wrap it round a flat bottomed pencil or similar to allow me to apply pressure but keep the surface straight. It takes patience but you do get there eventually If you do go for the neck, use a cork block or similar, again to allow pressure to be applied but keeping the surface flat. Brush or vac the paper regularly to stop the paper getting clogged. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulThePlug Posted July 29, 2021 Author Share Posted July 29, 2021 (edited) Thanks all for the above... and after a look about on 'tube... Looking at the neck and degree of finish, and it being the sticky up and out bit... and dont want to spoil the taper, or catch the fretboard... I think i will Danish Oil the neck, then use the finished neck to re-size the neck pocket. A little of the more of the shorter small G side... i think there is a proper name for this bit... to keep a nice neck n body edge with no step, and more of the longer larger side, and as best at the heel, sanding the body to match the neck, as i can go with a grade or so courser sandpaper, with any damage or error less likely to show. Again, any local expers willing to help, please shout! Gonna have a search on the net for local cabinet makers and sound a couple out. Still waiting on the Bridge, Tuners and Neckplate, Pickup etc... so a slow one... EDIT: Neck Join now sorted thanks to a local Cabinet Maker... Good 'ol Yellow Pages... well Google. Edited October 14, 2021 by PaulThePlug 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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