NAD - Orange Bass Terror

[Stub Mandrel]

After a week of frustration waiting for a Bass Terror, I cancelled and ordered from PMT and got next day delivery.

 

So now I have a Bass Terror sitting on top of a GR Bass AT212 slim cab. Modern tech and vintage sound 🙂

 

For those who are unfamiliar with the Bass Terror, it's a 500W RMS class D amp with a twin valve (12AX7 and 12AT7) preamp designed to sounds like the Orange AH200 all-valve bass head..

 

The 'unclean' setting gives a lovely classic Orange growl which is exactly the sound I wanted to get, ideal for the blues rock 'power trio'. The clean setting seems to be what it says and should allow me to get the range of sounds I need for the covers band using my pedalboard.

 

Is it loud enough? Well, I've got the master volume at absolute minimum AND the 6dB pad switched in with a passive bass, and it's still a bit too loud for bedroom practice. Quarter volume sounds loud enough for band practice, and that's with the 6dB pad still switched in.

 

I did consider the Little Bass Thing (which seems to be a basschat favourite) but I'd swap having a proper gain control and the very convincing sound of a two-valve preamp for valve compression any day.

 

Came with a lovely padded bag (big embroidered Oraneg logo) with shoulder strap etc. The only downside is that it feels a lot heavier than 4.6kg/10lbs, possibly because it is so compact.

 

My prediction was that this would be the dog's danglies, and it seems to be delivering.

 

[Lozz196]

Insanely powerful amps, with a really nice core tone. Take pedals really well too, congrats.

[BassAdder60]

I’m sure you will love it 

 

My LBT is a great amp and sounds better and better every time I play it 

 

Funny thing is I play mostly rock but not a great lover of too much drive in my tone. Clean to a touch of grit is my thing but none of this overdriven Bass sound 

 

Enjoy the new amp 👍

[pbasspecial]

I had the first one. Regretted selling it as soon as it left the house. Great amps. 

[Stub Mandrel]

Used it at a rehearsal last night. It's a keeper 😛

[stewblack]

I had, and will forever regret selling, the 1k version of this. Insane power amazing sound.

If it wasn't for my never ending gas I would be happily gigging with it still.

Congratulations.

 

 

[Stub Mandrel]

[Downunderwonder]

You either need a backpack for the amp or a gig bag for the bass and you're the next one trip wonder.

[Stub Mandrel]

Amp bag comes with a shoulder  strap. I carried amp  cab and bass to the car in one go. I really need my gig box as well though, and I've been asked to do bv's. So i need to get a holdall that will take mike stand and bass stand. Then there's spare bass (probably a fretless)...

 

I still need roadies!

[fretmeister]

I really must try one of these.

[Cat Burrito]

Love mine! I had the original, sold it, regretted it and rebought one for a few UK tours in 2019. Welcome to the club. 

[Joebethell]

Sold a TB1000 and really regretted it dabbled trying to replace it with many other heads and then the other week one popped up locally strangely not my old TB1000 but another with a quick replacement of the Pre amp valves it's just as good as I remembered with my 2x12 

[Stub Mandrel]

Well was able to unwind the amp/cab combination tonight. Two rehearsals with two bands in a week,  and loads of positive comments on the sound.

[Obrienp]

I am waiting on the V2 version that I bought off FleaBay. The description said that it was a year old and never gigged… we’ll see. If it as good as everybody says, I am hoping it is going to give me the same range of tones as my Ashdown Little Stubby but louder to cope with gigging.
 

A few questions for long term owners:

• how often do you have to re-valve these?
• is it a straight forward basic competence job, or one for an amp tech?
• Do the valves have to be biased and is that straightforward?
• another post suggested a valve upgrade would improve the clean tone. I can’t remember the particular valve recommended but has anybody done this and is it worth it?

Thanks in advance for any wisdom on this.

[Joebethell]

53 minutes ago, Obrienp said:

I am waiting on the V2 version that I bought off FleaBay. The description said that it was a year old and never gigged… we’ll see. If it as good as everybody says, I am hoping it is going to give me the same range of tones as my Ashdown Little Stubby but louder to cope with gigging.
 

A few questions for long term owners:

• how often do you have to re-valve these?
• is it a straight forward basic competence job, or one for an amp tech?
• Do the valves have to be biased and is that straightforward?
• another post suggested a valve upgrade would improve the clean tone. I can’t remember the particular valve recommended but has anybody done this and is it worth it?

Thanks in advance for any wisdom on this.

Hi, hopefully can help with the questions. 

 

Swapping the valves is really easy just unscrew the cage and you have access to the 2 valves. 

The only valves are in the pre amp so it's just 2 valves ECC83 (12ax7) no biasing required. As for swapping the type I have heard of people changing to 12AT7 for less breakup (not sure if the MK2 has and differences to the MK1 for this though I assume not) 

As for changing frequency i swapped mine as I purchased secondhand and after 3practices had an issue didnt know the age of the valves assumed they were very old so swapped them. 

 

Hope that helps

[Obrienp]

 

2 hours ago, Joebethell said:

Hi, hopefully can help with the questions. 

 

Swapping the valves is really easy just unscrew the cage and you have access to the 2 valves. 

The only valves are in the pre amp so it's just 2 valves ECC83 (12ax7) no biasing required. As for swapping the type I have heard of people changing to 12AT7 for less breakup (not sure if the MK2 has and differences to the MK1 for this though I assume not) 

As for changing frequency i swapped mine as I purchased secondhand and after 3practices had an issue didnt know the age of the valves assumed they were very old so swapped them. 

 

Hope that helps

Thanks, that is very helpful. I am buying secondhand too, so it sounds as though it would be worth doing an immediate swap for new valves. I might put the 12AT7 on hold until I have heard how the clean switch performs but good to know, thanks.

[Stub Mandrel]

3 hours ago, Joebethell said:

Hi, hopefully can help with the questions. 

 

Swapping the valves is really easy just unscrew the cage and you have access to the 2 valves. 

The only valves are in the pre amp so it's just 2 valves ECC83 (12ax7) no biasing required. As for swapping the type I have heard of people changing to 12AT7 for less breakup (not sure if the MK2 has and differences to the MK1 for this though I assume not) 

As for changing frequency i swapped mine as I purchased secondhand and after 3practices had an issue didnt know the age of the valves assumed they were very old so swapped them. 

 

Hope that helps

 

Mk. II is 1 off 12AAX7 and i1 off 12AT7. In Mk. II you also need to remove metal covers from each valve.

 

Orange say preamp valves last longer than output val;ves but no other informnation!

[Obrienp]

3 hours ago, Stub Mandrel said:

 

Mk. II is 1 off 12AAX7 and i1 off 12AT7. In Mk. II you also need to remove metal covers from each valve.

 

Orange say preamp valves last longer than output val;ves but no other informnation!

Thanks. Rats! I have ordered 2 x 12AX7 and no 12AT7. I’ll have to ring them up and change the order before they post it. 12AT7 is lower gain than the 12AX7 and there must be a reason why Orange have made that change in the MKII.

[Stub Mandrel]

22 minutes ago, Obrienp said:

Thanks. Rats! I have ordered 2 x 12AX7 and no 12AT7. I’ll have to ring them up and change the order before they post it. 12AT7 is lower gain than the 12AX7 and there must be a reason why Orange have made that change in the MKII.

 

It's used for the FX loop output (and the DI and to drive the main amp, I expect).

 

The Clean setting is clear as a bell, so I can see no reason for fitting two 12AT7s.

 

I should have mentioned it is incredibly loud, and I didn't even get the master volume up to 12 o'clock (gain about 3 o'clock).

[Lozz196]

When I had an OTB I used it with a Marshall VBC412 and couldn’t even get to 9 o’clock on the master volume without completely obliterating the rest of the band (a punk band with 2 guitarists both using 100 watt valve heads & 412 cabs). Amazingly loud amps.

[Stub Mandrel]

37 minutes ago, Lozz196 said:

When I had an OTB I used it with a Marshall VBC412 and couldn’t even get to 9 o’clock on the master volume without completely obliterating the rest of the band (a punk band with 2 guitarists both using 100 watt valve heads & 412 cabs). Amazingly loud amps.

 

Yep, I was at about 8 o'clock against a 50W Marshall with two 1x12 cabs. The 'loud test' was just that and I couldn't face trying any louder!

[Obrienp]

3 hours ago, Stub Mandrel said:

 

It's used for the FX loop output (and the DI and to drive the main amp, I expect).

 

The Clean setting is clear as a bell, so I can see no reason for fitting two 12AT7s.

 

I should have mentioned it is incredibly loud, and I didn't even get the master volume up to 12 o'clock (gain about 3 o'clock).

I found a JJ 12AT7 on fleaBay for £13 inc p&p, which seems like a good price, so I’ve ordered that. I am going to stick with the valve combo that Orange put in the amp OEM. I’ll just have a spare 12 AX7; probably worth having just in case.  I certainly don’t want to be putting a higher gain 12AX7 in the FX loop and DI. I think there was some criticism of the original Terror Bass DI being too hot, so maybe the change to a 12AT7 in that circuit was to calm it down.
 

Anyway, it is reassuring to hear that the Clean setting is clear, without messing with the valve specs. That is just what I want: a warm clean valve sound most of the time, with the option to add some break up when it’s needed.

[Obrienp]

I came across a post started in 2011 describing the process of changing valves in the previous model Terror. No pics though, as the links had broken. One thing that was not mentioned but is in some YouTube vids about valve changing, is the danger of residual current in the capacitors. I guess it is not a problem with the Terror preamp valves, as nobody has mentioned it. Is that right, or are there procedures I need to follow (apart from the obvious unplugging) to avoid getting fried?

[Stub Mandrel]

59 minutes ago, Obrienp said:

I came across a post started in 2011 describing the process of changing valves in the previous model Terror. No pics though, as the links had broken. One thing that was not mentioned but is in some YouTube vids about valve changing, is the danger of residual current in the capacitors. I guess it is not a problem with the Terror preamp valves, as nobody has mentioned it. Is that right, or are there procedures I need to follow (apart from the obvious unplugging) to avoid getting fried?

 

The design means that when changing valves the HT is inaccessible - unless you poke something into the valve base.

[Obrienp]

24 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

 

The design means that when changing valves the HT is inaccessible - unless you poke something into the valve base.

Thanks. That’s reassuring. 👍