12 fret action on p bass

[Geek99]

Y

10 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

 

Ah - OK.  That'll teach me to speed-read 

 

Do you want the quick-and-dirty fixes?

Yes please 

[Lo-E]

54 minutes ago, Geek99 said:

It’s a skill I need to gain - youtube time I think 

Youtube has definitely gotten me out of a jam or two but most of what you'll need to build this skill is experience.  It's only after 35 years of setting up instruments that I've gotten as comfortable with the process as I am.

 

While it doesn't offer the immediate satisfaction of Youtube videos, I strongly recommend Hideo Kamimoto's book Electric Guitar Setups as a good place to start.  He wrote that book at a time when no other resource like it existed and I think it still holds up well.  I've learned a lot since I last read it, but everything I've learned was built upon the foundation it provided.

 

[Andyjr1515]

10 minutes ago, Geek99 said:

Y

Yes please 

 

OK

 

I'll find a bass (Matt Marriott's still got my two main basses but I must have another one somewhere  ) and take a few photos.  I'll post something later today or, failing that, in the morning.

[Hellzero]

18 minutes ago, Lo-E said:

Youtube has definitely gotten me out of a jam or two but most of what you'll need to build this skill is experience.  It's only after 35 years of setting up instruments that I've gotten as comfortable with the process as I am.

 

While it doesn't offer the immediate satisfaction of Youtube videos, I strongly recommend Hideo Kamimoto's book Electric Guitar Setups as a good place to start.  He wrote that book at a time when no other resource like it existed and I think it still holds up well.  I've learned a lot since I last read it, but everything I've learned was built upon the foundation it provided.

 

Making an Archtop Guitar by Robert Benedetto is also very helpful and still available too... That's with this book, that I bought immediately when it went out, and other readings (no Internet library back in the day in late 80's, early 90's), talkings with (classical) luthiers and learning from them, plus thousands of setups, hundreds of assemblies and a few buildings (around 25 instruments to date and only 2 I'm proud of) that I acquired my skills. So it's a patience game and I still learn today. I'm not a feral luthier like @Lo-E, I'm more an impossible to tame one. 😇

[Andyjr1515]

OK @Geek99  - a quick and dirty way of finding and sorting high spots in frets and also creating a modest ski jump.

 

Warning  This is NOT the way a pro-luthier would do it and, because it doesn't involve re-crowning and re-polishing the frets and other important stuff, it is merely intended as a quick fix on your own bass and at your own risk.  Also not great if you string bend on your bass (most of us don't).  Don't do this on someone else's bass or any particularly valuable one!!!

 

1.  Quick and Dirty way of finding and tackling high spots on frets 

 

 Use the straight part of an old credit card to use as a 'rocker'.  Put the straight edge over 3 frets (use both hands...my other hand here is holding the camera) and does it rock?  If it does, then it indicates a high spot at that string position for the middle fret of the three.  Do this next to each string for that middle-of-the-three fret and repeat all the way up the board.  Normally, when I'm not holding a camera, I would be holding the other side of the card with the other hand and just gently applying pressure on either side.  Make a note of any high spot on a simple chart:

 

 

You must be using the straight part of the card edge and not where it starts curving at the corners and also the edge must be covering only three frets at a time.  As the frets start closing up, just use the shorter edge to make sure you're still only covering 3 frets:

 

On a bass, for the first few frets, a credit card isn't long enough.  Anything straight and thin will do! :

 

Note, by the way, that you can't check the 1st fret (rare that this is an issue if the nut is cut properly)

 

Next - on the frets where there is a high spot, mark the top of the fret with a non-permanent sharpie:

 

 

Then take an emery board nail file (most supermarkets, Boots, etc):

 

Use your finger to apply pressure and file gently back and forth in the direction of the fret and where the high spot was under that particular string.  The sharpie line disappearing will show you if you're filing in the right place which only needs to be under the actual string that you marked an 'X' against on your plan.  A bit either side is OK but don't stray to another string's position unless that was also marked as high.

 

Check frequently with the credit card until it doesn't rock anymore THEN STOP!

 

If you have a whole fret that appears to be high, first check that it is seated properly on the fretboard.  If it isn't, tap it lightly along the fret with a hammer and recheck.  If it's still high, then use the emery board, potentially along the whole fret - but check with the credit card at each string position frequently so you don't overdo it.

 

The fret top will be slightly flat where you've levelled it.  On a bass, Quick and Dirty says don't worry about that - I would defy anybody who says they can hear an intonation difference (although you can on a 6 string electric).

Also the fret top will be slightly scratched.  But the scratches will be along the fret direction and shouldn't give a problem.  If it worries you, a fingernail buffer will polish those out to a decent extent (what's a fingernail buffer?  Ask wife/partner/sister/mother...they will be in the same area as the emery nail boards)  

 

2.  Quick and Dirty creation of a ski slope

 

A repeat of the warning: Don't do this on someone else's bass or any particularly valuable one!!!

 

Purchase a cheap 2-sided diamond steel sharpening stone.  Something like this from Amazon.  A cheap one like this isn't going to last long but will be fine for this task:

 

 

 

Pop a bit of masking tape over the neck pickup to stop any filings sticking to the poles

 

Taking care that the far end isn't anywhere near scratching the bass top, lay the stone on the fretboard where you want the ski slope to start from (usually the 1st fret from where the body joins the neck).  Using both hands, gently move the stone 'rough side' down over the frets in this direction.  It is easier if someone is holding the bass to stop is moving:

Apply light pressure for the lower frets with your left hand and slightly higher pressure with your right hand on the upper frets.

 

You should see the tops of the upper frets flattening evenly along the length of the fret and the lower fret tops less so.

 

Stop when the flattening of the upper frets is no more than 1mm wide.  

 

Turn the stone over to the 'fine' side (usually 1000grit) and repeat 5-6 times to take out some of the scratches.

 

String it up and try it.  

 

If it needs some more, then just repeat

 

 

 

And that, @Geek99  is Andyjr1515's Quick and Dirty method  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Geek99]

So I found a two sided rectangular oilstone - half green and half black

IIRC I bought it to sharpen chisels - I put a line of sharpie  pen on fret 12 of the stingray 

 

I used the thin, long side of the oilstone to flatten fret 12 on the stingray just enough to remove the sharpie ink - the bass plays better in that zone 

 

trying Andy’s ski jump removal step on the P bass (using wide side of the oil stone) will have to wait until the weekend 

 

[dmccombe7]

Let us know how you get on with it.

Dave

[Andyjr1515]

6 hours ago, Geek99 said:

So I found a two sided rectangular oilstone - half green and half black

IIRC I bought it to sharpen chisels - I put a line of sharpie  pen on fret 12 of the stingray 

 

I used the thin, long side of the oilstone to flatten fret 12 on the stingray just enough to remove the sharpie ink - the bass plays better in that zone 

 

trying Andy’s ski jump removal step on the P bass (using wide side of the oil stone) will have to wait until the weekend 

 

Yes - those oilstones work fine too.

 

Did you use the credit card rocker trick?  In case others are reading, this is important because it means you can take off exactly the right amount.  Taking off too much will mean the next fret along will buzz.  It's a bit like the old joke of shortening of a dining leg and ending up with a coffee table 

[Geek99]

I did, yes, the fret rock on the stingray was very slight and I did doubt myself whilst doing it 

 

[Hellzero]

A very slight rock is already too much. 😉

[Geek99]

It was whilst flattening the top frets that I realised how uneven they actually were 

the ends are beautifully done but the heights are very variable 

 

I put sharpie on again and used the block flat, got down to 2.25 on E at 12th after restringing and reapplying radius 

I’ll have another go tomorrow 

 

thoughts on this ? 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Guitar-Fingerboard-Luthier-Tool-Guitar-Fret-Crowning-File-Fret-Leveling-BeaH5G1-/174616181690?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Edited October 22, 2021 by Geek99

[Hellzero]

This will be a (too soft) one use and bin file...

 

I have a Dunlop fret file, now Gurian, since more than 30 years. To me, and loads of pro luthiers, it's the best available, not cheap at all. It will last forever, it comes with 3 different burrs (for narrow, medium and jumbo frets) and you can buy these burrs back if ever needed. I think it's the only one with that special feature. It's a 3 in 1 file covering all types of frets.

 

https://www.allparts.uk.com/products/gurian-fret-crowning-file-set

[Downunderwonder]

On 22/10/2021 at 19:00, Geek99 said:

I did, yes, the fret rock on the stingray was very slight and I did doubt myself whilst doing it 

 

The kind of job where a bit of fear is good.

[Geek99]

My fret care kit arrived from China and I sanded and crowned the upper frets of the stingray clone. It’s down to 1.75mm at the 12th … probably a good point to stop 

when I’m feeling brave I’ll take on the p bass and it’s ski jump 

Edited November 8, 2021 by Geek99