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New bass or new nut and setup?


kwmlondon

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I'm not knowledgeable enough about nuts and necks to suggest any solutions to that side,  @gary mac might be able to point you in the right direction there.

 

Regards the volume and tone controls, I had an SR300 on which the controls went a bit belly up. I asked @KiOgon to make me a passive wiring loom. It had a separate volume and tone control for each pickup, but I also asked for one of the tone controls to be a series/parallel switch. If you pulled the tone control 'out' you had a big humbucker (I think, that's how it worked). It sounded great. I never liked the old active eq on the SR300 due to the variable mid sweep, I could never get a setting I liked. Only thing to remember is, if rip the electronics out, make sure any new loom has a barrel type input jack, normal ones won't stay in place.

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6 hours ago, Boodang said:

If the  neck is sublime and it's comfortable to play,  I would say you've found a keeper. I'm a big believer in tweaking basses to get them where you want for your needs. 

Sounds like time to have a Graph Tec nut installed (I get them put on all my basses) and at the same time getting a setup done. If you don't like the eq then change it out. Many options, my current favs being East and Audere. 

Might sound like a lot but if you end up with a bass that plays well and sounds well then you're onto a winner.

This has a lot to say for it but I think I’m going to try tweaking the truss rod first. If this sorts it I’ll just stick with it as is. I’d like to try a higher end Ibanez some time though. 

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19 minutes ago, kwmlondon said:

This has a lot to say for it but I think I’m going to try tweaking the truss rod first. If this sorts it I’ll just stick with it as is. I’d like to try a higher end Ibanez some time though. 

Is it worth getting a professional to install a new nut and do a setup? Might make all the difference. 

High end Ibanez SR's are very nice tho!

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9 hours ago, Boodang said:

Is it worth getting a professional to install a new nut and do a setup? Might make all the difference. 

High end Ibanez SR's are very nice tho!

Well, it got a very good setup not long ago so I'm reluctant to shell out another £35 on it for a setup plus £40 to fit a nut plus the cost of the nut plus a new set of strings (because if it's getting all that attention I'd put new strings on) - I may do but not for a while yet.

 

Thinking about it more objectively it's likely to be the neck because if it was the nut I'd have noticed it before now - I tend to doubt myself and think "why didn't I notice this before, I can't have been playing this bass enough" rather than "this used to be fine, what's changed?"

 

Also, I'd like to try more 5-strings now I'm getting more of a feel for this one. I don't mind spending proper money if it something I really know I'll like and that I'll play but at the moment I'm still working that out. 

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1 hour ago, kwmlondon said:

Well, it got a very good setup not long ago so I'm reluctant to shell out another £35 on it for a setup plus £40 to fit a nut plus the cost of the nut plus a new set of strings (because if it's getting all that attention I'd put new strings on) - I may do but not for a while yet.

 

Thinking about it more objectively it's likely to be the neck because if it was the nut I'd have noticed it before now - I tend to doubt myself and think "why didn't I notice this before, I can't have been playing this bass enough" rather than "this used to be fine, what's changed?"

 

Also, I'd like to try more 5-strings now I'm getting more of a feel for this one. I don't mind spending proper money if it something I really know I'll like and that I'll play but at the moment I'm still working that out. 

 

This is a good explanation of how to check the truss rod tension, essentially you just fret the bottom string at 1st and last frets at the same time and check the gap, too big a gap (at its maximum point) between the string and fret means the rod is too loose, no gap means its too tight:

 

 

Also I think you need to take the string change out of the cost equation too, as you will probably want to put new ones on anyway at some point (and if you dont then theres no reason to do so for the setup). Plus you might buy a new bass and in a years time it have the same problem as the neck has settled and needs readjustment.

Edited by bassman7755
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  • 2 weeks later...

So, I've let some tension out of the neck and I've raised the action and that's sort of gotten rid of the buzzing a bit so it sounds better but now but I think it could sound better.

 

I think the bass needs a proper set up from someone who knows what they're doing or has the time to put into trying it out.

 

While I like the bass I'm just not going to invest any money in it. I'd rather sell it on to someone, but it's done its job - I now know:

 

I really like playing 5 string bass

For 5 string I want a modern, HiFi sound and a 24 frets

I like narrow string spacing and a thin neck

 

So, I'm going to keep an eye out and maybe trade up in the next year or so but until then this is a superb bass and I'm quite happy with it.

 

Thanks for all the advice, folks!

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Update: actually got a bit of time to mess around and dug out my hex key set. It took the truss rod 3/4 of a turn loosening off but the buzz is sorted. Thanks for the advice folks! I think I’ll upgrade at some point but not in a hurry. 

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15 minutes ago, kwmlondon said:

Update: actually got a bit of time to mess around and dug out my hex key set. It took the truss rod 3/4 of a turn loosening off but the buzz is sorted. Thanks for the advice folks! I think I’ll upgrade at some point but not in a hurry. 

Cool, sometimes a little tweak is all it needs, glad it’s playing good 👍 

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On 26/10/2021 at 10:04, kwmlondon said:

Yeah, I tried that but it didn't sort the problem out, fine after the first fret - you're right, the second fret could need attention but I don't want to shell out for a full on dressing on what's really a cheap bass. I could just tighten the neck a bit, I guess, I'm just very wary about messing with the tension.

Just get a straight edge or fret rocker. I spent £11 on a fret dressing kit and solved my own problem that was similar to yours

a truss rod tweak plus two high frets 

Edited by Geek99
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9 hours ago, Geek99 said:

Just get a straight edge or fret rocker. I spent £11 on a fret dressing kit and solved my own problem that was similar to yours

a truss rod tweak plus two high frets 

Well I think I’ve got it sorted so thanks but I think that may be a bit advanced for me. I’m fine setting intonation and at a push il tweak a truss rod but I’d not trust myself to do fret dressing. I admire your skills!

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3 hours ago, kwmlondon said:

Well I think I’ve got it sorted so thanks but I think that may be a bit advanced for me. I’m fine setting intonation and at a push il tweak a truss rod but I’d not trust myself to do fret dressing. I admire your skills!

I only got them a week ago. If you see the thread I started it’s all described with pictures 

 

“12 fret action on p bass”

 

 

@kwmlondon

Edited by Geek99
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19 minutes ago, tauzero said:

Don't forget, the answer is always "new bass". You don't have to get rid of the old one though.

Well if it was to get something different then maybe but I’m really looking to upgrade so I’ll be happy to move this on when the time comes. 

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1 hour ago, Bassfinger said:

Thing is, even if you buy a new bass that is still liable to require some fine tuning of the nut and a proper set up in order to give its best, so these are liable to be in your future regardless of the option you go with.

Yep, I know but I don’t mind investing in a long-term instrument. This SR505 was only ever meant to try out a 5 string so I’d rather not put more money into this bass. 

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2 hours ago, kwmlondon said:

Yep, I know but I don’t mind investing in a long-term instrument. This SR505 was only ever meant to try out a 5 string so I’d rather not put more money into this bass. 

The  SR505 is a pretty decent instrument, solid build quality, good hardware, 3 band active EQ, split coil pickups etc etc you've probably already reached the point of diminishing returns in terms of overall bass tone, versatility and playability, not sure why your dead set on treating it as a disposable starter instrument.

Edited by bassman7755
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Early on you said you bought a cheap set of Gear4Music strings. Like most bits of a bass I find a good or bad string can make a big difference.  Rather than buy cheap new I go for decent strings second hand via here. As others have  said its not a bad bass (£600 ish new doesn't equal cheap starter instrument in my book) so issues must be in the setup not the manufacture I'd have thought. Nothing in the setup routine should scare you even truss rods if you're careful and follow instructions. Mainly it's be certain you know which way to turn the nut for tighty/loosy, then turn only 1/8-1/4 turn at a time, have patience to let the neck adjust and measure the relief FREQUENTLY.  Unless it knack'd it's not going to go twang on you, and if it is knacked well, then, time to go anyway. If as you say you don't mind the cost of upgrading you can't really go wrong with a Sire.    

Edited by lownote
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2 hours ago, bassman7755 said:

The  SR505 is a pretty decent instrument, solid build quality, good hardware, 3 band active EQ, split coil pickups etc etc you've probably already reached the point of diminishing returns in terms of overall bass tone, versatility and playability, not sure why your dead set on treating it as a disposable starter instrument.

Because I’ve tried a Dingwall. I mean, the SR is fine and all but I really liked the sound of the multi scale I tried. The Ibanez is fine but it’s not inspiring, and I’d like to try different basses- scale lengths, pickups, why not a neck through? The new Rickenbacker 5 string sounds amazing and looks fantastic. I bought the Ibanez, I didn’t marry the thing and have kids with it…

Edited by kwmlondon
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2 hours ago, lownote said:

Early on you said you bought a cheap set of Gear4Music strings. Like most bits of a bass I find a good or bad string can make a big difference.  Rather than buy cheap new I go for decent strings second hand via here. As others have  said its not a bad bass (£600 ish new doesn't equal cheap starter instrument in my book) so issues must be in the setup not the manufacture I'd have thought. Nothing in the setup routine should scare you even truss rods if you're careful and follow instructions. Mainly it's be certain you know which way to turn the nut for tighty/loosy, then turn only 1/8-1/4 turn at a time, have patience to let the neck adjust and measure the relief FREQUENTLY.  Unless it knack'd it's not going to go twang on you, and if it is knacked well, then, time to go anyway. If as you say you don't mind the cost of upgrading you can't really go wrong with a Sire.    

You know what? The gear4music strings aren’t bad, they definitely sounded better after a few hours of playing. The truss rod on the Bass works okay it’s just my other basses are much more free turning so it gives me the fear when I have to twist harder. 

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