Ashdown ABM owners club

[PigBass]

Hello all, I hv an ABM EVOII 500 which is completely fab except that the pre-amp valve now sounds more nasty than gritty. I hv removed it and checked the pins but no difference, maybe time for a new valve?
 

I checked the Watford Valves website and see nearly a million 😂 12AX7 options to choose from. Anyone here changed their valve and if so what to? Does the huge choice make that much difference in this amp?

 

 Cheers, Darren.  

[Bassybert]

19 minutes ago, PigBass said:

Hello all, I hv an ABM EVOII 500 which is completely fab except that the pre-amp valve now sounds more nasty than gritty. I hv removed it and checked the pins but no difference, maybe time for a new valve?
 

I checked the Watford Valves website and see nearly a million 😂 12AX7 options to choose from. Anyone here changed their valve and if so what to? Does the huge choice make that much difference in this amp?

 

 Cheers, Darren.  

 

Do you know what brand/model you currently have in there?

[BassAdder60]

 I used a JJ ECC83S in my Ashdown ABM600 EVO IV and it was perfect 

[Pow_22]

I've always been under the impression the valve in ABM's doesn't do much.  When I was valve rolling in my old ABM400 it sounded the same even when no valve at all was in the socket!  Unlike my Ashdown Spyder where both 12AX7s had a huge affect on the tone and gain stage

[PigBass]

5 minutes ago, Bassybert said:

 

Do you know what brand/model you currently have in there?

Hi Bassybert, it's the original valve, a Russian SOVTEK 0506 

 

Thanks.

[Lozz196]

I’d say drop Dave Green at Ashdown a call and ask for his advice.

[Bassybert]

57 minutes ago, Lozz196 said:

I’d say drop Dave Green at Ashdown a call and ask for his advice.

That’s probably the best advice, he’s a nice guy to deal with and will certainly be able to tell you all you need to know. 
 

In ‘theory’ any 12ax7 should be fine, but there are numerous THD variations across brands and models that mean you’ll get varying results. Depends what sort of sound you’re looking to get.

 

I’ve got an ABM and have had a couple different ones in the past, but I’ve never been blown away by the overdriven tube sound - if it’s warmth/fatness you want I think it’s great though. 

Edited May 30, 2024 by Bassybert

[PigBass]

Thanks for your replies everyone, much appreciated. I contacted Dave at Ashdown and he replied pretty quickly as usual from Ashdown. I thought his reply was worth sharing as he explained how the drive control works on this amp:

 

I would use a JJ ECC83S. Also try using a bit less input gain, this will alter not only the amount but the nature of the drive sound. The drive control on the amp alters the MIX of driven to undriven sound and the gain control alters the amount of drive, less gain = less drive.

 

Matched BassAdder60's recommendation, but tbh I did originally believe the Drive Control altered the amount of drive rather than how much of the driven sound is mixed with the original signal.

 

Darren.

[alexa3020]

Interesting, so the valve drive control is essentially a blend knob? I'm interested to run the valve drive at max and back off the input gain to see if it gives a clean tubey sound. I was kind of worried I'd degrade the tube quickly if I did that, but from the sounds of it, it would probably last longer as the amount of drive would be less, because my input gain is less

 

 

Edited June 1, 2024 by alexa3020

[Homatron]

That's really handy info, thanks for sharing! I've been thinking about popping a fresh valve in my ABM Evo ii too. You've just saved me a lot of research!

 

Watford valves also do a high gain version of the JJ ECC83S. I wonder if that would be safe to use and produce a different type of grind/drive in this setting. 

[PigBass]

Just a quick update, I've now had a chance to play with the amp at volume to check out what's what.

 

For info, my set up is - MIJ 60's Jazz with almost dead rounds, (or 4003 with lively rounds which has a significantly higher output than the Jazz), EVOii 500, Barefaced 8Ohm 410. No effects/pedals etc.

 

My previous approach was to crank up the gain until the meter moved somewhere just below (but often in) the red zone, dial in the valve drive around 2 O'clock and add volume as required plus a bit more to annoy the guitarist (ha ha). Ear plugs in cos we have an acoustic and loud drummist - and away...

 

By reducing the gain from about 3 O'clock to12/1 so that the meter peaks are roughly vertical, valve drive still at 2 O'c, to my ears the nastiness has gone and I have that slightly gritty but very warm valvey sound I was looking for. So I was wrong and Dave was right. Another good school day for me. 

 

Cheers all, Darren. 

[Homatron]

I'll have to give this a go tomorrow!

 

I'm still getting to grips with the range of sounds I can get out of my ABM but had been consistently doing the same as you describe, with the gain in the upper end of the dial. Will try backing it off a bit.

Edited June 5, 2024 by Homatron

[Stofferson]

NAD.

Upgraded the Abm 600 for the new 750.

 

Perfect 

[Bagman]

76 Precision with old as DAddarrio Chromes

SGFX Beta V 

SGFX /Diamond comp/eq

 

Ashdown klystron 400

 

fingers, thumb, plectrum all good tone 

 

 

Edited June 30, 2024 by Bagman
Spelling

[Bagman]

I was hoping to purchase an ABM PWR Sub but seller will not send from Auckland to Christchurch 

 

I always wanted to try one but none available in NZ when Ashdown launched here 1998 

[Minininjarob]

Hi everyone. I’ve been looking round at heads and really interested in an ABM as it has a valve preamp. I can’t afford a full valve amp but want some of that creamy slightly broken up valve tone - will I get that with an ABM? 
The older ones seem to be reasonably priced second hand and from all reports tend to be super reliable with good advice from Ashdown if needed which is a real plus for me. 
Weight isn’t an issue for me. 
Are there any models to avoid or look out or any common problems to be aware of? I pretty good with electronics and could do some fault testing and replacement of valves and some components but would prefer one that works well to start off with of course!

[BassAdder60]

The ABM series are fantastic amps but I must say that you won’t get valve tones from amps with only a valve in the preamp ( from my experience)

 

The RM series and other class D amps sound equally good in my opinion although the ABM600 does have some welly to its sound.

Ive owned full valve amps CTM100, Ampeg V4B Ampeg SVT CL etc and they sound great but I don’t think today are really needed especially when you factor in the weight, difficulty selling on ( shipping ) and potential valve issues ( rare but possible)

 

[Woodinblack]

22 minutes ago, Minininjarob said:

Hi everyone. I’ve been looking round at heads and really interested in an ABM as it has a valve preamp. I can’t afford a full valve amp but want some of that creamy slightly broken up valve tone - will I get that with an ABM?

 

The ABM doesn't have a valve preamp, it has a valve drive in the preamp - the preamp itself is transistor but it has a separate (single) valve just for doing the valve overdrive effect.

ABMs are pretty well bomb proof if that is your main concern, and also well supported by ashdown

[Lozz196]

I’d look at the ABM600, has a much more flexible eq and has some serious weight to the sound, the valve gain really adds in thickness and some nice break up. 

[Minininjarob]

1 hour ago, Lozz196 said:

I’d look at the ABM600, has a much more flexible eq and has some serious weight to the sound, the valve gain really adds in thickness and some nice break up. 

Thanks that’s good to know. Is there just one version?

[Pow_22]

2 hours ago, Minininjarob said:

Hi everyone. I’ve been looking round at heads and really interested in an ABM as it has a valve preamp. I can’t afford a full valve amp but want some of that creamy slightly broken up valve tone - will I get that with an ABM? 
The older ones seem to be reasonably priced second hand and from all reports tend to be super reliable with good advice from Ashdown if needed which is a real plus for me. 
Weight isn’t an issue for me. 
Are there any models to avoid or look out or any common problems to be aware of? I pretty good with electronics and could do some fault testing and replacement of valves and some components but would prefer one that works well to start off with of course!

 

The Spyder series are the more valve like.  They have genuine valve pre's (2 x 12AX7).  The 330 has a MAG power section and the 550 is an ABM power section 

[BassAdder60]

You could look at the ABM600 for sale on here 

The ABM600 EVO IV is the model to seek 

They have some demo units left at Ashdown if you check directly with them classed as B stock and will be virtually like new @ £575 

Edited July 5, 2024 by BassAdder60

[Woodinblack]

41 minutes ago, Minininjarob said:

Thanks that’s good to know. Is there just one version?

 

There are a few, but the latest 600, the ABM600 Evo IV is certainly the greatest, although obviously there is a AMB750 Evo V, but its a lot more expensive.

 

[Minininjarob]

21 hours ago, BassAdder60 said:

You could look at the ABM600 for sale on here 

The ABM600 EVO IV is the model to seek 

They have some demo units left at Ashdown if you check directly with them classed as B stock and will be virtually like new @ £575 

Thanks for the heads up but that’s too much for me I’m afraid. 

[Minininjarob]

21 hours ago, Pow_22 said:

 

The Spyder series are the more valve like.  They have genuine valve pre's (2 x 12AX7).  The 330 has a MAG power section and the 550 is an ABM power section 

I see you have one for sale….. 😀