Bass VI on the way.......

[Hazza2004]

Hi there, Harry here, I have a Squier Bass VI on the way from GuitarGuitar at the end of the month and am aware of the few issues that can arise out of the box.  I was just wondering if anyone had anyone has any recommendations of things that can be done for very little money that can improve/fix these issues? I am thinking that a heavier set of strings (at least a 95 on the low E) will be almost a requirement but is there anyone who has any recommendations apart from the pricy Labella's that seem to be extremely common?

Many thanks, 

Harry

[Woodinblack]

I guess it depends on what you are expecting. I have had 2 bass VIs and not really modified them - apart from strings, the first had to have labella strings on it, but at the time there was very little else, now there is a lot more choice.

 

If you look at the bass VI forums it will make you think that you have to change everything and put staytrems etc on it and do hundreds of £ of changes, but honestly they are not bad out of the box with a bit of a setup.

 

I would recommend (like with all these things), don't worry about what other people say you *have* to change, play it and see how you get on. if there is something you don't like, then look into what needs changing then.

[Mykesbass]

Newtone Strings do a set. Only used their acoustic guitar strings, but their service and range are excellent.

[gareth]

I’ve had one of these for years 

 

its absolutely standard plays well and keeps tune 

 

I think you’ll be surprised how good it is in standard form without modification 

[mr4stringz]

4 hours ago, Mykesbass said:

Newtone Strings do a set. Only used their acoustic guitar strings, but their service and range are excellent.

A plus 1 for Newtone. Their Bass VI set is great.

Edited January 17, 2022 by mr4stringz

[Cat Burrito]

I bought the Burns Bass VI and it came in desperate need of a setup. It's playable but clearly the shop selling didn't really know how to do it. It's due to go to my friend that sets up my basses and I am hopeful he can get it playing much better. Mine's just for recording so I have been a bit lazy sorting it out. 

[BigRedX]

Shim the neck to increase the break angle over the bridge and fit a set of Newtone Axion Custom Works Fender VI stings which are about a third the cost of the LaBellas and IMO the superior round wound strings for Bass VIs. I'm assuming you want round wounds. If not your options a bit more limited, and expensive; but IIRC Picato do a set of Bass VI flats.

 

After that it will be down to personal preference and how much money you want to spend. The next thing you'll probably want is something to stop the bridge wobbling about on it's supports. Increasing the break angle of the stings goes a long way to help but its not a perfect solution. If you've got some DYI skills and the right tools you may find one of the home-brew solutions using metal tubing will work, but otherwise you are looking at a Staytrem bridge.

 

The problem with the bridge and vibrato mechanism is two-fold. With the light gauge strings supplied the vibrato can be quite effective, but unfortunately to get decent bass sounds out of the lower stings, and once you fit either LaBellas or Newtones the increased tension of the strings will make the vibrato mechanism almost impossible to operate. Also IMO the wobbly bridge has no place on a bass guitar. It's fine if you want to do MBV impersonations on a guitar but on the Bass VI it's just an inconvenience.

 

Personally I found the biggest problem with the Squier Bass VI was the narrow neck, which I found unfeasibly narrow even by guitar standards and more so fitted with bass strings. My ultimate solution was to replace the Bass VI with an Eastwood Hooky Bass 6 Pro which is an exact copy of his Shergold Marathon Six String Bass.

[warwickhunt]

For me the only niggle that I MUST sort is the intonation.  The E & A saddle screws are short but oddly you can't wind the saddle back far enough as the angle of the intonation screw increases to where the screw starts to dig into the underside of the string.  When I get my backside in gear I'll cut the excess off the E & A screws.  

[BigRedX]

15 hours ago, warwickhunt said:

For me the only niggle that I MUST sort is the intonation.  The E & A saddle screws are short but oddly you can't wind the saddle back far enough as the angle of the intonation screw increases to where the screw starts to dig into the underside of the string.  When I get my backside in gear I'll cut the excess off the E & A screws.  

 

Some people have been able the sort out the intention problems by reversing the whole saddle/screw/spring assembly. That way when the saddle is back far enough for the intonation to be right it's at the end of the screw and therefore it's not a problem.

 

You can also try playing about with relative string heights using the main bridge height screws as well as individual saddle height screws. I had a similar problem on an HB baritone guitar and was able to find a compromise that worked by adjusting these until the intonation screw was no longer a problem. IIRC you wind the saddle height screws right down and set the main action using the bridge supports, only using the saddle height screws to match the radius of the fingerboard. 

[warwickhunt]

I took the springs out of the E & A strings to get the saddle back far enough to get 'near' intonation but sadly as soon as it gets back past 50% (which isn't a great distance), the screw (bolt really) starts to ramp up until the intonation screw actually interferes with the string itself.  I'll take a look at reversing the bridge but I'd be concerned that the opposite would start to take affect (B & E high strings hitting intonation screw).

 

[BigRedX]

2 minutes ago, warwickhunt said:

I took the springs out of the E & A strings to get the saddle back far enough to get 'near' intonation but sadly as soon as it gets back past 50% (which isn't a great distance), the screw (bolt really) starts to ramp up until the intonation screw actually interferes with the string itself.  I'll take a look at reversing the bridge but I'd be concerned that the opposite would start to take affect (B & E high strings hitting intonation screw).

 

I've just had a look at my Squier Bass VI (must get around to selling it because it's not been used at all since I got the Eastwood), and IIRC the fix only involved reversing the E and A saddles which means drilling new holes for them on the opposite side of the bridge. 

 

Will the other method work for you? I have a feeling the HB version of this bridge was slightly different.

[warwickhunt]

Mine is the Squier version so I need to decide between drilling 2 holes or shortening 2 screws.

[BigRedX]

54 minutes ago, warwickhunt said:

Mine is the Squier version so I need to decide between drilling 2 holes or shortening 2 screws.

 

If you can get the saddles far enough back by removing the springs, I'd probably go for the shortening the screws as it would be the simplest mod to reverse if it doesn't work.

 

However I'd also still look first at raising the overall height of the bridge and then lowering each individual saddle so that the intonation screws aren't at such an extreme angle, which will hopefully stop them from interfering with the strings.

[warwickhunt]

Now fettled!    

 

Got the bridge as high as poss and saddles as low as poss (to the point where the G string rested on the back of the bridge) but the E string defied me.  I had to hacksaw the tip of the adjuster screw off (6-7mm) but left the saddle on when I cut it to act as a die when it unwound.  No spring on the E string now but at least it sounds in tune above the 3rd fret (it struggled to sound in tune just playing open chords before).  

 

[Woodinblack]

It is quite impressive that it is 7 years since my first squier bass VI and they still haven't fixed that!

[BigRedX]

Excellent! Although it looks as though the intonation string might still be touching the A string.

 

Chords? I haven't been able to get any decent clarity for chords of more than two notes out of any of my Bass VIs unless I'm very much in the upper register.

[BigRedX]

1 minute ago, Woodinblack said:

It is quite impressive that it is 7 years since my first squier bass VI and they still haven't fixed that!

 

It's only a problem if you fit heavier gauge round wound strings. With flats, or the lighter strings that the Fender and Squier models come fitted with the E and A strings intonate properly without modifying the bridge.

[warwickhunt]

Just now, BigRedX said:

Excellent! Although it looks as though the intonation string might still be touching the A string.

 

Chords? I haven't been able to get any decent clarity for chords of more than two notes out of any of my Bass VIs unless I'm very much in the upper register.

 

It is literally 1mm below, you can see light if you put a torch behind it.    

 

When I say open chords, that patently doesn't include striking the E string!    I can play an open A chord if I go light but you are correct the chordal aspect is pretty much for chords up the neck and/or on the 4 high strings.  

[Dosi Y'Anarchy]

Sorry to self-promote but I did a video that covers my Bass VIs the other day that may help:

 

 

[Dosi Y'Anarchy]

2 hours ago, Woodinblack said:

It is quite impressive that it is 7 years since my first squier bass VI and they still haven't fixed that!

They did when they discontinued the Vintage Modified ones and issued the Classic Vibe series: Replaced the bridge with a Mustang style one which helps not only with the strings popping out of place but also the screw is seated in the top of the assembly and doesnt risk diagonally hitting the string. Its still the same width so I tend to upgrade with a Staytrem which is much wider and gives more than enough room for intonation. 

[Dosi Y'Anarchy]

21 hours ago, BigRedX said:

Shim the neck to increase the break angle over the bridge and fit a set of Newtone Axion Custom Works Fender VI stings which are about a third the cost of the LaBellas and IMO the superior round wound strings for Bass VIs. I'm assuming you want round wounds. If not your options a bit more limited, and expensive; but IIRC Picato do a set of Bass VI flats.

 

After that it will be down to personal preference and how much money you want to spend. The next thing you'll probably want is something to stop the bridge wobbling about on it's supports. Increasing the break angle of the stings goes a long way to help but its not a perfect solution. If you've got some DYI skills and the right tools you may find one of the home-brew solutions using metal tubing will work, but otherwise you are looking at a Staytrem bridge.

 

The problem with the bridge and vibrato mechanism is two-fold. With the light gauge strings supplied the vibrato can be quite effective, but unfortunately to get decent bass sounds out of the lower stings, and once you fit either LaBellas or Newtones the increased tension of the strings will make the vibrato mechanism almost impossible to operate. Also IMO the wobbly bridge has no place on a bass guitar. It's fine if you want to do MBV impersonations on a guitar but on the Bass VI it's just an inconvenience.

 

 

Newtone strings are great and they are really up for customer work too, i got some customer VI sets made up by them (heavier than the Axion...they were great but i think it just ended up too much tension for the neck). Surprisingly, Fender do, what is for me, the perfect roundwound bass VI set...they just dont string the bass VI's with it for some bizzare reason:

https://astrings.co.uk/products/0730250413?variant=35287077519514&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic

 

I wrap electrical tape around the bridge posts to stop them wobbling. Probably not the most scientific approach but it works.

 

On two of my VI's i've done away with the trem altogether and replaced it with a hardtail plate:

https://reverb.com/item/6764636-custom-stainless-steel-bass-vi-hardtail-conversion-plate-with-free-strings

 

Now, the bridge is solid and ive got more than enough room for intonation and i've got no worries about things wobbling out of tune. 

[BigRedX]

Incidentally GHS do an even heavier set of Bass VI strings (than the Newtones) designed to go on the Eastwood Hooky bass. I have to say that they suit this bass very well and I will be ordering a set as a failsafe just in case when I restring with Newtones I don't like it as much.

 

Every Bass VI style instrument I have tried (apart form the Eastwood Hooky) comes with very similar gauge strings to those fitted to the Squier. I have no idea why since most users find the E and A far to floppy in feel and sound.