ezbass Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 OK BCers a litle help please. I'm going to be adding another p/up to my '50s roadworn. I love the sound of a P bass but sometimes want a little more "bridgeness" in the tone. I've tried P/Js and P/MMs but definitely want a P/P config. The question is about placement and orientation of the new p/up (a Seymour Duncan SPB1). The options are, and I apologise for the poor photoshopping, 1 2 3 Im interested in peoples opions on the aesthetics and potential tone. Leaving it as is isn't an option as it was bought for this very reason (no way am I cutting into my '63!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzz Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 Middle picture, but swap it around to E-A is closer to the bridge, but there's still an ~inch between both sets of D-G pups would be my choice. Too close and you wouldn't get much sound variation. Although, if I was going to route it, I'd whip out the other P-pup and put soapbars in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveO Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 I'd have thought that the middle one would work best to give you more of that 'bridginess'. I don't like the look of #3, it'll look like a smiley when you're playing, although of course if you move the knobs you might be able to turn it into a bass cleff :brow: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neepheid Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 Definitely the middle one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bass Doc Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 Yep middle one for distance,(i.e. not cutting into the scratchplate) but with the halves reversed as per no. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr pablo Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 [quote name='The Bass Doc' post='459401' date='Apr 10 2009, 04:15 PM']Yep middle one for distance,(i.e. not cutting into the scratchplate) but with the halves reversed as per no. 3[/quote] +1 then stick a dimarzio model one in the neck position the you'd have pretty much my ideal bass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noelk27 Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 Why not take a look at the Precision Elite II ('83 to '85)? Basically that's what two of the options are simulating - and I'm assuming Fender worked out the best placement when devising that model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamster Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 Middle one for me too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezbass Posted April 11, 2009 Author Share Posted April 11, 2009 [quote name='Buzz' post='459382' date='Apr 10 2009, 03:32 PM']Although, if I was going to route it, I'd whip out the other P-pup and put soapbars in.[/quote] That would definitely make the routing easier, but it's gotta be Ps for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tait Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 [quote name='Buzz' post='459382' date='Apr 10 2009, 03:32 PM']Middle picture, but swap it around to E-A is closer to the bridge, but there's still an ~inch between both sets of D-G pups would be my choice. Too close and you wouldn't get much sound variation. Although, if I was going to route it, I'd whip out the other P-pup and put soapbars in.[/quote] [quote name='The Bass Doc' post='459401' date='Apr 10 2009, 04:15 PM']Yep middle one for distance,(i.e. not cutting into the scratchplate) but with the halves reversed as per no. 3[/quote] ^ what they said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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