JPJ Build No. 2

[mathewsanchez]

So your going for a sorta Levin vibe with the trans black. I'd like to see how it turns out... probably something like this I guess.

[budget bassist]

[quote name='mathewsanchez' post='484240' date='May 10 2009, 11:52 AM']So your going for a sorta Levin vibe with the trans black. I'd like to see how it turns out... probably something like this I guess.


[/quote]
Yum, love that bass. There's only two of them, one owned by mr levin himself and the other by a man in sweden, so yours should be uber special too

[Jobiebass]

[quote name='budget bassist' post='484501' date='May 10 2009, 07:09 PM']Yum, love that bass. There's only two of them, one owned by mr levin himself and the other by a man in sweden, so yours should be uber special too [/quote]

why does the top horn look raised? is it just cam-foolary?

[budget bassist]

[quote name='Jobiebass' post='484527' date='May 10 2009, 07:52 PM']why does the top horn look raised? is it just cam-foolary?[/quote]
raised? the top is totally flat, probs just an illusion

[gilmour]

This is a great diary, I'm hooked. Keep up the good work.

I've had ideas f doing something similar myself, but have none of the required skills.

Are you going to go with a scratch plate? Also have you thought about putting a matching cap on the graphite headstock?

[JPJ]

[quote name='gilmour' post='484749' date='May 11 2009, 01:55 AM']This is a great diary, I'm hooked. Keep up the good work.

I've had ideas f doing something similar myself, but have none of the required skills.

Are you going to go with a scratch plate? Also have you thought about putting a matching cap on the graphite headstock?[/quote]

Thanks for the kind words, I am really enjoying this build and I am pleased so many others on here are as well. Scratchplate wise, I'm thinking of going with a MM four string shaped scratchplate in clear Perspex so as not to hide the lovely maple top. I did think of laminating the headstock, but decided against it as I love the 'technical' look of the graphite weave.

[JPJ]

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='484132' date='May 10 2009, 02:07 AM']Cool - black cover plate aswell then? Painted wood? Or black perspex?[/quote]

Mmm I hadn't thought of doing a wood cover plate until you mentioned it, I'll have to check and see whether their is a big enough piece of the swamp ash left to laminate up a wooden cover plate, otherwise the smoked Perspex might be the answer, although I'll have to tidy the original wiring quite a bit if I go down the perspex route.

[EBS_freak]

[quote name='JPJ' post='484821' date='May 11 2009, 09:24 AM']Thanks for the kind words, I am really enjoying this build and I am pleased so many others on here are as well. Scratchplate wise, I'm thinking of going with a MM four string shaped scratchplate in clear Perspex so as not to hide the lovely maple top. I did think of laminating the headstock, but decided against it as I love the 'technical' look of the graphite weave.[/quote]

Agree - it's a graphite neck, don't hide it. It is what it is!

[EBS_freak]

[quote name='JPJ' post='484826' date='May 11 2009, 09:29 AM']Mmm I hadn't thought of doing a wood cover plate until you mentioned it, I'll have to check and see whether their is a big enough piece of the swamp ash left to laminate up a wooden cover plate, otherwise the smoked Perspex might be the answer, although I'll have to tidy the original wiring quite a bit if I go down the perspex route.[/quote]

Smoked perspex is quite good from a visual perspective if your wiring is tidy... just a word of warning though, if your electronics are in any way the slightest bit noisy, I would advise against a smoked perspex plate because you will not be able to do any shielding. Well, you could... but to be frank, it will look pretty pikey if you try and screen a smoked perspex plate.

For the best back plate screening job, use a piece of wood and paint it using screening paint, or better still, use a bit bit of metal and stick a laminate of wood on top. (It's about time you had a little metal work involved in this project )

Screen the hell out of that cavity with a good few thick layers of screening paint and you'll be in business. I always think that paint gives a neater finish than copper - but you do have to be generous with the paint to get an effective screen...

So, when does the ink get splashed???

[EBS_freak]

Another query (I know, I know...)

How come you want a scratch plate? It seems a shame to have one at all with that pretty top... Don't you think that a clear scratch plate is like putting a condom over your sofa?!

[JPJ]

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='484877' date='May 11 2009, 10:34 AM']Another query (I know, I know...)

How come you want a scratch plate? It seems a shame to have one at all with that pretty top... Don't you think that a clear scratch plate is like putting a condom over your sofa?![/quote]

LMAO, that one 'caused a coffee/keyboard incident

The reason for the scratchplate is I've been amazed by the amount of scratches on my Overwater's scratchplate from my finger nails. I thought that a clear perspex guard would protect the finish against this whilst being easily replaceable.

[JPJ]

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='484876' date='May 11 2009, 10:33 AM']use a bit bit of metal and stick a laminate of wood on top. (It's about time you had a little metal work involved in this project )[/quote]

I'm liking your thinking there! (and it would give me an excuse to use my second favourite power tool " the power file ")

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='484876' date='May 11 2009, 10:33 AM']So, when does the ink get splashed???[/quote]

Well I've just realised I need to drill for the edge mounted jack socket, and then providing the sanding goes well next weekend, there could be ink on the beast by Sunday night. I have prepared a few test pieces of swamp ash & maple to test various mixes of the black dye + sanding sealer + grain filler + Lacquer on before I start on the real thing.

[EBS_freak]

[quote name='JPJ' post='484907' date='May 11 2009, 11:05 AM']The reason for the scratchplate is I've been amazed by the amount of scratches on my Overwater's scratchplate from my finger nails. I thought that a clear perspex guard would protect the finish against this whilst being easily replaceable.[/quote]

The scratches will polish out - I suppose it would be the wiser move if it is going to be a working instrument that you want to keep looking fresh! OK, just an idea, what about a smoked plate? That way, from a distant it would look black, but close up you still get to see the grain? That could look quite cool. I always like the understated basses that draw you in when you get close!

[Stylon Pilson]

[quote name='JPJ' post='484907' date='May 11 2009, 11:05 AM']LMAO, that one 'caused a coffee/keyboard incident

The reason for the scratchplate is I've been amazed by the amount of scratches on my Overwater's scratchplate from my finger nails. I thought that a clear perspex guard would protect the finish against this whilst being easily replaceable.[/quote]

I use one of these:

[attachment=25042:Large_Na...Clippers.jpg]

S.P.

[EBS_freak]

[quote name='JPJ' post='484914' date='May 11 2009, 11:12 AM']I'm liking your thinking there! (and it would give me an excuse to use my second favourite power tool " the power file ") [/quote]

The good old power file! Remember that you will need to do the surround of your cavity (e.g. the bit that the cover sits on) with your screening too so that the bare metal touches it to complete the screening job! Oh and don't forget to use a beefy grounding cable to the bridge. It's sad to see how many manufacturers skimp on this and use something about as useful as floss... It can make a big difference in keeping the unwanted noise low. (Not that you should have too much of a problem with a Ray pickup)

[EBS_freak]

[quote name='Stylon Pilson' post='484923' date='May 11 2009, 11:25 AM']I use one of these:

[attachment=25042:Large_Na...Clippers.jpg]

S.P.[/quote]

You wimp.

I use one of these -

[JPJ]

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='479695' date='May 5 2009, 09:30 AM']Good for you! Can't wait to see the staining process - I think its great when you are applying the stain and it's all wet - you get a real understanding for what the finishing thing is going to look like. Have you decided on clear coats yet? Polyester? Are you doing it? If so, what are you using?[/quote]

Well on the advice of a trusted friend who has produced some stunning pieces using this combination, I am going with:

1) Rustin's Ebony wood dye
2) Rustin's natural grain filler (which will be thinned with the ebony wood dye)
3) Chestnut acrylic sanding sealer
4) Chestnut acrylic lacquer

I've just bought a whole load of fine wet'n'dry papers along with foam and natural bristle soft lacquer brushes from Axminster, that site should be added to the list of banned sites as I always spend a fortune when I go on there

[EBS_freak]

[quote name='JPJ' post='487070' date='May 13 2009, 05:04 PM']Well on the advice of a trusted friend who has produced some stunning pieces using this combination, I am going with:

1) Rustin's Ebony wood dye
2) Rustin's natural grain filler (which will be thinned with the ebony wood dye)
3) Chestnut acrylic sanding sealer
4) Chestnut acrylic lacquer

I've just bought a whole load of fine wet'n'dry papers along with foam and natural bristle soft lacquer brushes from Axminster, that site should be added to the list of banned sites as I always spend a fortune when I go on there [/quote]

Ah - so you are going with a single colour dye as opposed to a double stain (e.g. like PRS finishes?). I was kind of hoping that you would do a grey and black double stain so that the grain REALLY jumps.

Not suggesting that you should do a double stain afterall, it's your guitar but if you are interested on testing it out on a bit of scrap wood...

Don't know if I'm teaching you to suck eggs but basically...

In a nutshell... Apply your darker stain over your flat surface. (Some people say that this works better if your dye is warm... if that's true... well... I dunno). This raises the grain and enhances the 3d effect of the grain. Then sand again so that you effectively flatten off the top of the raised grain (this will expose natural wood again at the points where the grain was previously high. e.g. you have a dark stained with bits of bare wood exposed). Then apply your lighter grain over the body (covers up said bare wood). Dry. Smooth (careful of those sand throughs!)

All going well, you'll get this effect -

I presume you are going for translucent for the whole body a la MM Stingray...? Not tempted to rethink your faux binding... It's not that difficult... careful masking and a razor blade to clean up the edges...?

Then again, if you are feeling REALLY brave, you could lightly burst the edges...

[JPJ]

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='488762' date='May 15 2009, 12:19 PM']Then again, if you are feeling REALLY brave, you could lightly burst the edges...[/quote]

You sir, are a finish tease of the highest order!

I have been conducting a few tests this week on some offcuts and have found that by hitting the maple with a coat of the black, and then sanding back and hitting it again, you get a similar effect to the one in your photo and it stops the black looking purple. The whole bass will be black, and the swamp ash hit with two coats of dye looks stunning when wetted. I have abandoned the faux binding and radiused the edge of the body as the sharper edge allowing for the binding just didnt feel comfortable to me.

My supply of fine grade wet'n'dry arrived today along with a new varnish brush and some foam brushes, so I hope to have at least one colour coat on the body by the end of the weekend.

[gilmour]

[quote name='JPJ' post='488819' date='May 15 2009, 01:04 PM']I have abandoned the faux binding and radiused the edge of the body as the sharper edge allowing for the binding just didnt feel comfortable to me.[/quote]

I know what you mean about the binding, it just doesn't feel comfortable to me either, but I love the look of it

I saw this yesterday, made By [url="http://www.crimsonguitars.com/"]Crimson Guitars[/url], I love the black burst on the front and the natural wood on the back, but it only really works with the binding I guess.



Now get on and do it we're all eager to see the results

Edited May 15, 2009 by gilmour

[EBS_freak]

[quote name='JPJ' post='488819' date='May 15 2009, 01:04 PM']You sir, are a finish tease of the highest order!

I have been conducting a few tests this week on some offcuts and have found that by hitting the maple with a coat of the black, and then sanding back and hitting it again, you get a similar effect to the one in your photo and it stops the black looking purple. The whole bass will be black, and the swamp ash hit with two coats of dye looks stunning when wetted. I have abandoned the faux binding and radiused the edge of the body as the sharper edge allowing for the binding just didnt feel comfortable to me.

My supply of fine grade wet'n'dry arrived today along with a new varnish brush and some foam brushes, so I hope to have at least one colour coat on the body by the end of the weekend.[/quote]

A finish tease? Ha ha... Maybe! My next bass is going to be quite different... for that reason. I want a different finish to the norm!

Or maybe... something like the attached?

Foam brushes? What's wrong with a sponge?!

What are you doing your final polish with? By hand or have you got a polishing wheel?

[EBS_freak]

[quote name='gilmour' post='488853' date='May 15 2009, 01:21 PM']I saw this yesterday, made By [url="http://www.crimsonguitars.com/"]Crimson Guitars[/url], I love the black burst on the front and the natural wood on the back, but it only really works with the binding I guess.[/quote]

You reckon it works? Too much of a contrast for me...

[JPJ]

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='488900' date='May 15 2009, 02:07 PM']A finish tease? Ha ha... Maybe! My next bass is going to be quite different... for that reason. I want a different finish to the norm!

Or maybe... something like the attached?

Foam brushes? What's wrong with a sponge?!

What are you doing your final polish with? By hand or have you got a polishing wheel?[/quote]

Foam brushes work really well with water based lacquers and really help easy the final sanding stage. Polishing will be with a handheld electric mop polisher. I've quite a bit experience with one of these from polishing boats so I am happy to use one on the bass, but only after the lacquer has had a good month to fully cure out.

[JPJ]

[b]Episdode VI - Attack of the clowns[/b]

Well, it doesnt look like much progress but basically, I've made a wooden control cavity cover like this:



Fitted the neck and bridge and strung her up to check clearances and alignments like this:





And drilled and machined for the controls themselves like this:



Then I've carried on with the sanding, getting down as far as 400 grit (only 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 to go before I can apply the stain).

Next week will be sanding, sanding, sanding and more sanding so there wont be anymore photo updates until the stain is on.

[EBS_freak]

[quote name='JPJ' post='490696' date='May 17 2009, 05:37 PM'][b]Episdode VI - Attack of the clowns[/b]

Well, it doesnt look like much progress but basically, I've made a wooden control cavity cover like this:[/quote]

Nice cover. Just had an idea... OK, how about this...

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/305mm-x-200mm-CARBON-FIBRE-Sticker-Vinyl-A4_W0QQitemZ350198595640QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item350198595640&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/305mm-x-200mm-CARBON...93%3A1|294%3A50[/url]

or

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/A4-SHEET-CARBON-FIBRE-EFFECT-SELF-ADHESIVE-VINYL_W0QQitemZ170327698984QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Crafts_StickersScraps_Decoupage_SM?hash=item170327698984&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/A4-SHEET-CARBON-FIBR...93%3A1|294%3A50[/url]

Faux carbon fibre cover?! Apply that, lacquer over the top...

Looking good dude. Nice update. Short and sweet!