alexclaber Posted April 17, 2008 Author Share Posted April 17, 2008 [quote name='david_l_perry' post='178591' date='Apr 17 2008, 09:46 AM']Have they dropped out when fitting the bolts ?[/quote] Yes, whilst fixing the midrange in - and then because it happened to three of them I couldn't get the midrange out to remove them. Cue lots of irritable drilling out of bolts! Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul, the Posted April 17, 2008 Share Posted April 17, 2008 To catch you mid-fit, all this stuff is really impressive. I'm fast finding how paramount the cabs are. Is there anywhere in the forum/wiki that attempts to explain these graphs and the like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_l_perry Posted April 17, 2008 Share Posted April 17, 2008 Hindsight is a wonderful thing but.... I always fix the T nuts by using a G clamp to pull them into the wooden panel. But if you apply pressure when driving the bolt (as you would with a screw) then it will tend to pop the t nut loose as you found out.....With bolts you should not have to apply any pushing pressure, just allow the driver to loosely turn the bolts and the thread pulls the bolt in.... You should have been able to pull the bolt out with your fingers (thereby holding the T prongs against the inner face) and keep turning the bolt to remove it even with the driver in place. I have had to do this on a couple of occasions when I have had T nuts drop off.... Bolts are still the best option for drivers as wood screws can strip, especially on something like this where you are likely to need to remove the drivers a couple if times for tuning fine tweeking.... Possibly worth while using a couple of dabs of some epoxy to hold them in place...?? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexclaber Posted April 17, 2008 Author Share Posted April 17, 2008 [quote name='david_l_perry' post='178946' date='Apr 17 2008, 03:39 PM']I always fix the T nuts by using a G clamp to pull them into the wooden panel.[/quote] Now why didn't I think of that? Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexclaber Posted April 17, 2008 Author Share Posted April 17, 2008 [quote name='paul, the' post='178928' date='Apr 17 2008, 03:25 PM']Is there anywhere in the forum/wiki that attempts to explain these graphs and the like?[/quote] Ask questions and I shall answer. The task of writing this stuff for the wiki is too big for me to know where to start, especially as one can go so deep... Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alien Posted April 17, 2008 Share Posted April 17, 2008 When fitting T-nuts, my preferred method is to use a hex screw and a large washer. Using an appropriate sized hex key in a power drill/driver means it's pretty quick to do, and it clears out any crud in the T-nut thread while you're about it, so you can be sure the screw will go in during final assembly. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_l_perry Posted April 18, 2008 Share Posted April 18, 2008 (edited) [quote name='alexclaber' post='178971' date='Apr 17 2008, 03:58 PM']Now why didn't I think of that? Alex[/quote] Not sure if you are being sarcastic Alex....hope I didn't sound condescending as it may have been an obvious point that you already tried out........ ...Certainly no offense intended if it came across that way...... I have used Aliens method as well on previous cab builds and it also works well, but I found that that you are asking a lot of the bolt to draw the T nut fully into good quality Birch ply as its a [i]lot tougher[/i] than standard ply. In fact the front feet on my omni 15 have been done this way:- Sure enough the T nut has not been pulled all the way in to the tough Birch ply . Over time the t nut could settle further into the ply and cause the feet to come loose. Its not a big problem in this instance but if it was a bolt hidden inside the cab then it would be more of a concern. As my dad always says...more than one way to skin a pig..... Edited April 18, 2008 by david_l_perry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexclaber Posted April 18, 2008 Author Share Posted April 18, 2008 [quote name='david_l_perry' post='179521' date='Apr 18 2008, 09:27 AM']Not sure if you are being sarcastic Alex...[/quote] No, not at all, I hadn't even considered using a clamp to push them in instead of tapping them with a hammer. Just tried it now and it works really well. Have soldered and mounted crossover and speakon this evening and made some noise. No insulation in cab yet and midrange sitting on top whilst the baffle is fixed post t-nut pains but it sounds great! Looking forward to pushing some low frequency sine waves through it tomorrow and seeing how the cab stands up - am ready to add extra bracing... Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexclaber Posted April 20, 2008 Author Share Posted April 20, 2008 Prototype complete! Lots of things learnt, including why most people don't use fabric grills - metal on the next one, whose parts I'll cannabalise from this cab. Next version needs more extensive bracing, and I'll be switching to a slot port for the same reason. Also might go for a shallower cuboid midrange enclosure to free up more volume for the woofer. No midrange L-pad on this one so it's pretty bright and midrangey - will see how the Beyma 6.5" neo mid compares in future versions. Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_l_perry Posted April 21, 2008 Share Posted April 21, 2008 HI Alex. So reading between the lines it sounds like the btm end is not as authoritative as you are hoping ? Have you bedded in the 3015 driver fully before testing ? I know this made a [i]massive [/i]difference in the Omni15 Was the cab resonating a lot, hence the comment about wanting extra bracing ? I am assuming at some point the amount of bracing outweighs (pun intended) the choice of 9mm ply rather than 12mm ply, with less bracing.... Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bremen Posted April 21, 2008 Share Posted April 21, 2008 [quote name='david_l_perry' post='179521' date='Apr 18 2008, 09:27 AM']In fact the front feet on my omni 15 have been done this way:- [/quote] David, Where did you get those wheels? Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_l_perry Posted April 21, 2008 Share Posted April 21, 2008 [quote name='bremen' post='181807' date='Apr 21 2008, 01:28 PM']David, Where did you get those wheels? Chris[/quote] Penn fabrications [url="http://www.penn-elcom.com/Default.asp?MC=1109060&GC=28"]Penn fabrications corner wheels[/url] Its W2080k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bremen Posted April 21, 2008 Share Posted April 21, 2008 [quote name='david_l_perry' post='181888' date='Apr 21 2008, 03:14 PM']Penn fabrications[/quote] Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexclaber Posted April 22, 2008 Author Share Posted April 22, 2008 [quote name='david_l_perry' post='181747' date='Apr 21 2008, 12:48 PM']So reading between the lines it sounds like the btm end is not as authoritative as you are hoping ? Have you bedded in the 3015 driver fully before testing ? I know this made a [i]massive [/i]difference in the Omni15 Was the cab resonating a lot, hence the comment about wanting extra bracing ? I am assuming at some point the amount of bracing outweighs (pun intended) the choice of 9mm ply rather than 12mm ply, with less bracing...[/quote] More that the midrange is louder than I'd like. The 3015LF is partially bedded in but I think could do with some more loosening up. The cab was resonating a fair bit at very high levels but I'd finished it off quickly and left out a fair bit of my intended bracing so adding that bit extra shouldn't make that much of a weight difference. Crossover components, wiring and handles also rattled at bit at high volume so I'll have to secure them more firmly next time around. Think I might see how the 3015 stacks up in a simple 1-way cab too. Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_l_perry Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 [quote name='alexclaber' post='182991' date='Apr 22 2008, 05:23 PM']More that the midrange is louder than I'd like. The 3015LF is partially bedded in but I think could do with some more loosening up. The cab was resonating a fair bit at very high levels but I'd finished it off quickly and left out a fair bit of my intended bracing so adding that bit extra shouldn't make that much of a weight difference. Crossover components, wiring and handles also rattled at bit at high volume so I'll have to secure them more firmly next time around. Think I might see how the 3015 stacks up in a simple 1-way cab too. Alex[/quote] Try hot melt glue and tie wraps to secure the crossover components. You should not be getting any rattles from the crossover unless it was just loosely laid inside the cab. This is the mid and low crossovers from my omni:- I cant stress enough the difference I have heard between output of the 3015 before and after it had been bedded in, it was genuinely like a different speaker enclosure (this was another guys omni15 that I heard once with my DR280 and again with my omni 10 in the same room with the same gear. Since the DR280 test, he had gigged his omni 15 a few times (before that he had only had it at low 'bedroom levels') I bed mine in using a 25hz tone at 12volts for a couple of days (not overnight). Do it out of the box and it is pretty much silent. Dont understand why your handles should be rattling as they are recessed units aren't they ? Was it not the amp rack on top ? I sometimes get some rattles in my little skb case when its sat on the omni at high level, but an extra piece of cloth or foam between the two sorts it out. Do you have a measurement mic and RTA so you can see the output using pink noise....? That could help show where the hot output is. Keep at it....... Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilmour Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 Hi Alex, Just to echo what Dave is saying about bedding the driver in really, the bass really really improves after a good bit of playing at volume. I used a less technical approach than Dave, I took mine to band practice and gigs, and played thorugh it lots, but by the third gig the Driver was sounding awesome. R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneythedog Posted May 8, 2008 Share Posted May 8, 2008 So, any further news? How's she going? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musky Posted May 16, 2008 Share Posted May 16, 2008 All your pix have disappeared Alex. Did you delete them or is it some kind of technical cock up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexclaber Posted May 16, 2008 Author Share Posted May 16, 2008 [quote name='Musky' post='200437' date='May 16 2008, 02:20 PM']All your pix have disappeared Alex. Did you delete them or is it some kind of technical cock up?[/quote] My friend whose space I'm borrowing switched server whilst I was on holiday, so his email to warn me about losing everything on there wasn't received until too late! Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musky Posted May 17, 2008 Share Posted May 17, 2008 [quote name='alexclaber' post='200579' date='May 16 2008, 05:16 PM']My friend whose space I'm borrowing switched server whilst I was on holiday, so his email to warn me about losing everything on there wasn't received until too late! Alex[/quote] Ah Ok - It did occur to me that you might have been hiding trade secrets! Incidentally Alex, what kind of size and weight are you envisioning for the compact 15" cab? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MythSte Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 Would there be any chance of you re-uploading some of the pics please alex? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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