horrorshowbass Posted August 22, 2022 Share Posted August 22, 2022 Hi guys, one of these has come up locally, anyone any experience with Corvette std models? Its a Trans Green colour and priced at 499 euros. Will get a pic in later Thanks Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machines Posted August 22, 2022 Share Posted August 22, 2022 Decent price if it's German, truss rod is good, and the oiled body isn't absolutely battered to death. Even then, I see Rockbasses going for only a bit less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stofferson Posted August 22, 2022 Share Posted August 22, 2022 Got a 97 model, had various others, Any more spec / got a year? like @Machinessaid, if it's a German build and in good nick, that's a good price Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
horrorshowbass Posted August 22, 2022 Author Share Posted August 22, 2022 Thanks lads will see if I can get pics up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3below Posted August 22, 2022 Share Posted August 22, 2022 Try it for balance & weight. I have two, the bubinga bodied one is heavy (no surprise) and does not sit as comfortably as the ash bodied one. I suspect this is due to the chunky neck which the other does not have. Other than that, well made, stay in tune, they do the business. One is active, the pre amp is a bit neither here nor there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemmywinks Posted August 22, 2022 Share Posted August 22, 2022 Gigged an active ash standard for years, great bass. You'll probably want to swap the nut out for the brass verson, aside from that they're rock solid, sound great and are a joy to play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grenadillabama Posted August 23, 2022 Share Posted August 23, 2022 I have the active bubinga version and it sounds like a souped up Jazz Bass. The D machine snapped loose and I bought Gotoh tuners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King Tut Posted August 23, 2022 Share Posted August 23, 2022 I’ve got a passive Bubinga version. I love it but don’t gig it much. The top horn is maybe a couple of frets shorter than a fender and that pushes the neck out to the left. Not enough to make it uncomfortable like a thumb bass but enough to throw my orientation out if I’m not concentrating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeftyJ Posted August 23, 2022 Share Posted August 23, 2022 Take a good close look at some of the hardware, and make sure it's a "proper" German Warwick and not a Rockbass. If it has a maple neck and a one-piece bridge, it's a first generation Rockbass. Stay away, it's WAY overpriced in that case. If it has a maple neck and the two-piece Warwick bridge, it's a second generation Rockbass and more than decent but you could do better on the price. If it's a wenge neck, SCORE. If it's an ovangkol neck, there are some things to look out for: - the original brass Just-a-nut with individually adjustable saddles is brilliant. The JAN3 is also great, whether plastic or brass. The JAN2 was a POS: the height-adjustable piece is held in place by two plastic tabs on the outer ends which are very prone to breaking. When those are gone, it inevitably needs replacing because it won't stay in position when tuning and will mess up your intonation, so you'll be looking at some extra costs and work which could bring the price down; - the stock Warwick tuners are sub par quality, and the tuning posts can snap off without warning, as @grenadillabamaalso pointed out. I have two Streamers from 2001 and 2003 which still have the stock tuners without issues, but on the Warwick Facebook page I've seen many which broke right off. Original Warwick replacement tuners are cheap and can be ordered both in Warwick's excellent webshop or at Thomann, but there are drop-in Gotoh replacements which are a major upgrade; - truss rods from the late 90s and early 00s were less than great. Sharing pics would be appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
horrorshowbass Posted August 23, 2022 Author Share Posted August 23, 2022 42 minutes ago, LeftyJ said: Take a good close look at some of the hardware, and make sure it's a "proper" German Warwick and not a Rockbass. If it has a maple neck and a one-piece bridge, it's a first generation Rockbass. Stay away, it's WAY overpriced in that case. If it has a maple neck and the two-piece Warwick bridge, it's a second generation Rockbass and more than decent but you could do better on the price. If it's a wenge neck, SCORE. If it's an ovangkol neck, there are some things to look out for: - the original brass Just-a-nut with individually adjustable saddles is brilliant. The JAN3 is also great, whether plastic or brass. The JAN2 was a POS: the height-adjustable piece is held in place by two plastic tabs on the outer ends which are very prone to breaking. When those are gone, it inevitably needs replacing because it won't stay in position when tuning and will mess up your intonation, so you'll be looking at some extra costs and work which could bring the price down; - the stock Warwick tuners are sub par quality, and the tuning posts can snap off without warning, as @grenadillabamaalso pointed out. I have two Streamers from 2001 and 2003 which still have the stock tuners without issues, but on the Warwick Facebook page I've seen many which broke right off. Original Warwick replacement tuners are cheap and can be ordered both in Warwick's excellent webshop or at Thomann, but there are drop-in Gotoh replacements which are a major upgrade; - truss rods from the late 90s and early 00s were less than great. Sharing pics would be appreciated! yeah sorry need to do that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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