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Posted

Decent price if it's German, truss rod is good, and the oiled body isn't absolutely battered to death. Even then, I see Rockbasses going for only a bit less.

Posted

Try it for balance & weight.  I have two, the bubinga bodied one is heavy (no surprise) and does not sit as comfortably as the ash bodied one. I suspect this is due to the chunky neck which the other does not have.  Other than that, well made, stay in tune, they do the business.  One is active, the pre amp is a bit neither here nor there.  

Posted

I’ve got a passive Bubinga version. I love it but don’t gig it much. The top horn is maybe a couple of frets shorter than a fender and that pushes the neck out to the left. Not enough to make it uncomfortable like a thumb bass but enough to throw my orientation out if I’m not concentrating.

Posted

Take a good close look at some of the hardware, and make sure it's a "proper" German Warwick and not a Rockbass. If it has a maple neck and a one-piece bridge, it's a first generation Rockbass. Stay away, it's WAY overpriced in that case. If it has a maple neck and the two-piece Warwick bridge, it's a second generation Rockbass and more than decent but you could do better on the price. If it's a wenge neck, SCORE. If it's an ovangkol neck, there are some things to look out for:

- the original brass Just-a-nut with individually adjustable saddles is brilliant. The JAN3 is also great, whether plastic or brass. The JAN2 was a POS: the height-adjustable piece is held in place by two plastic tabs on the outer ends which are very prone to breaking. When those are gone, it inevitably needs replacing because it won't stay in position when tuning and will mess up your intonation, so you'll be looking at some extra costs and work which could bring the price down;

- the stock Warwick tuners are sub par quality, and the tuning posts can snap off without warning, as @grenadillabamaalso pointed out. I have two Streamers from 2001 and 2003 which still have the stock tuners without issues, but on the Warwick Facebook page I've seen many which broke right off. Original Warwick replacement tuners are cheap and can be ordered both in Warwick's excellent webshop or at Thomann, but there are drop-in Gotoh replacements which are a major upgrade;

- truss rods from the late 90s and early 00s were less than great. 

 

Sharing pics would be appreciated! :)

Posted
42 minutes ago, LeftyJ said:

Take a good close look at some of the hardware, and make sure it's a "proper" German Warwick and not a Rockbass. If it has a maple neck and a one-piece bridge, it's a first generation Rockbass. Stay away, it's WAY overpriced in that case. If it has a maple neck and the two-piece Warwick bridge, it's a second generation Rockbass and more than decent but you could do better on the price. If it's a wenge neck, SCORE. If it's an ovangkol neck, there are some things to look out for:

- the original brass Just-a-nut with individually adjustable saddles is brilliant. The JAN3 is also great, whether plastic or brass. The JAN2 was a POS: the height-adjustable piece is held in place by two plastic tabs on the outer ends which are very prone to breaking. When those are gone, it inevitably needs replacing because it won't stay in position when tuning and will mess up your intonation, so you'll be looking at some extra costs and work which could bring the price down;

- the stock Warwick tuners are sub par quality, and the tuning posts can snap off without warning, as @grenadillabamaalso pointed out. I have two Streamers from 2001 and 2003 which still have the stock tuners without issues, but on the Warwick Facebook page I've seen many which broke right off. Original Warwick replacement tuners are cheap and can be ordered both in Warwick's excellent webshop or at Thomann, but there are drop-in Gotoh replacements which are a major upgrade;

- truss rods from the late 90s and early 00s were less than great. 

 

Sharing pics would be appreciated! :)

yeah sorry need to do that :)

 

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