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Posted

Hello shaping my new bridge. my question is someone can help me out ok i have an ochestral bridge on right now i have a template for a Jazz Cut, but, i wanna know if anybody, knows about notch placement string, cuts for Rockabilly. Do  I want the jazz setup?? I cant find an answer anywhere, about my question. hope i decribed my situation correctly..

Posted

There's quite a lot to shaping a bridge but it's definitely doable DIY if you're ok with accurate woodworking. Can I ask, why are you changing the existing bridge?

Posted

Upgrade! Basic crap that was on my bass, new bridge looks awesome lovely grain, looks lot better the one i have on my bass looks like a piece of pine wood.. 

Posted

I build gas power  tether cars as my other hobby.my trade was   body and fender work on autos for over 30 years.. shouldn't be a bear. Just can't find answer if I want jazz cuts or orchestral cuts or what ever is used for rockabilly slap putting aquila Sugar slaps on when done.  J.

Posted

Pics please...

I have no idea about DB... but although appear old school still have some sort of 'aura' about them... like a forgotten science. Interesting stuff.

How something can look so simple yet be so complicated... more forgotten art than science then.

Posted

There are two sides to it - firstly putting the strings in the right place (action and spacing) and secondly shaping the bridge right - feet sitting exactly flat on the body, bridge at 90 degrees to body, bridge tapered towards the top, slots right depth and curved over nicely etc.

How does the action feel now for your playing style?

Posted (edited)

Most Rockabilly players, and a lot of other players use adjusters in their bridges so they can experiment with bridge height or to set it at different heights for different types of playing. I have them on both of my DBs and my EUB and they are really useful and allow for fine tuning the bridge.

Have you thought about having them installed in your new bridge? The Deuce bridge that you mentioned in your other thread has adjusters. You can install them yourself and several are available from Gollihur who can also give you some advice. 

Good luck!

 

Edited by Staggering on
Posted

Thanks for all the help I finally hit the mark w my bass it's finally feeling the way I slap. I slap with phenomenal speed. I needed a string that could be able to react to my quirky  quickness (say that five times fast). It's gonna be a while till, I find my next need to fill on my bass. I can relax now no stress worries about strings, bridge, no nothing but plucking, and slapping.   Stuff I tried,in past year, BP 100 fishman pickup, K&K Clicky pickup, Weed Wacker ultra lights, Superior deluxe, La Bella super nil, Aquila Sugar slaps, & Changed tail gut  to 3/32 Cable. Shadow Rockabilly Preamp, Bass Bone OD, got rid of Bass Bone OD stuck w the Shadow preamp all  powered through Older Legacy Acoustic BH200 Head & 410 Cabinet,  And now new maple bridge with 1/4 anodized adjusters.  A shop in New Jersey is my Go to place Called Gollihur Music. 

  • Like 2
Posted

Orchestral bridge? Jazz cut?  Can you explain?

 

I've had the same bridge for 33 years on a bass that was "set up for jazz" in 1989. But I play in a symphony orchestra as well as a jazz band. Took a few mm off the top to lower the action once and recently had the feet reshaped and adjusters fitted ( to raise the action again!) But it's "just a bridge", not a particular kind of bridge, that I know of.

 

So what's the difference? Flatter top for jazz and a smaller radius for bowing? Or something I've never thought of?

Posted

It's basically just the shape of the top, flatter for jazz, steeper arch for orchestral for easier bowing. Possibly orchestral bridges have a slightly narrower string spacing too.

Posted

Right, so the cut of the top arch rather than the bridge itself. 

 

Can be hard to bow only the required note at big volume with the flattish arch.  But the curve of the bridge matches the radius of the fingerboard, so a steeper arch would mean an uneven action. Not going there.

 

Adjusters are a marvellous thing.  Changed my bass greatly for the better.

Posted

@NickA yes, bridge set-up is complicated, as you say there's the fingerboard shape to take into account. Also a higher arch for bowing raises the action on the A and D and could lower it on the E... Ideally you'd plane the fingerboard to match any major change to bridge crown.

I've tweaked my own bridge a bit and ended up accepting a slightly flatter crown across the A string than I would have liked, to keep the action down on that string.

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