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Ricky's Had His Head Chopped Off.. BOSH..!


Waddo Soqable

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3 minutes ago, Smanth said:

The staggering of the tuning machines to accommodate the different positions for intonation across the the strings has been one of the greater challenges I've found when I've investigated a headless setup.  So much so that I may end up using them just for tension/tuning and add separate individual saddles for intonation and action adjustment.

 

S'manth x

That's actually a very good idea 👍

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15 minutes ago, Waddo Soqable said:

That's actually a very good idea 👍

It was an approach I had to take with Twiggy (my homemade tuning machines were not sophisticated) but I think it will also work well in my next build. It may also let me explore adding piezo to the saddles.

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S’manth x

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24 minutes ago, Smanth said:

It was an approach I had to take with Twiggy (my homemade tuning machines were not sophisticated) but I think it will also work well in my next build. It may also let me explore adding piezo to the saddles.

B3A3E974-6B4B-49A1-BF9D-B84A4A66EC77.thumb.jpeg.24156368e88cb4bb43e8c29619fca9ac.jpeg

S’manth x

That's brilliant..I have done a fair bit of metalwork ( tho more welding and big hammer stuff ) and I was toying with making something DIY bridge wise..  your version is an inspiration for sure ! 

Edited by Waddo Soqable
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After some eyeballing and measuring using my noted lengths per string, I reckon the units will be fine as per template, I'll have enough leeway to shift the saddles back enough to intonate, and ( tho prob unlikely,) a smidge forward if necessary, There's enough metal on the saddle carriers to file a small amount off too should that be called for.

The cat asked his friend to come and have a look too, and demonstrate what could "accidentally" happen if, say, I was not forthcoming with the Dreamies...

 

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The hole positions on the template were centre punched to ensure any drill doesn't go skidding around and the hole end up in the wrong place,,  then pilot holes drilled, the very rear ones are just shallow dimples for the protruding screw heads on the underside to sit in ( these stop the sliding sections just coming out)

The base units were then screwed down, using a bit of candle wax on the screw threads to assist their journey , luckily these screws had regular Phillips heads and went in fine without an arcane Japanese screwdriver.

I put the saddle assemblies in approx position using the measurements taken previously, I could've mounted the base units a wee bit further back as it happens, but then the tuner knobs would have been sticking yet further out so I'm happy enough and should have ample intonation adjustment.

Having got these in place I put some lubrication on the tuning barrel threads and nylon washers, for this I used Graphite rather than gooey stuff, ( courtesy of a carved up carpenters pencil lead )

Next get some strings on to see how everything sits..I used the old ones that came off the bass, the E was a bit tight thru the head 'block'  but they all went on with a bit of bullying, I pulled them up but not to any kind of full tuning, they're sitting on BEAD at the mo ..  The truss rod will need doing up again as I let it right off when it was de-strung anyway.

As predicted the action is crazy high and I'll have to decide if I'm going to file a load of bits off the bridge units/saddles etc etc, or  'router out' some slots or a lowered table for the tuner / bridge units  in the body itself.. Dunno as yet.  ( nice shimmable bolt on neck for any future headless projects I think)

Anyway as it stands at the mo I'm happy enough with it as a concept and reckon it potentially looks the part ! ...Again with a big tip of the hat to @Bassassin for his thread's inspiration .

 

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36 minutes ago, PaulThePlug said:

Looks quite the menace...

 

Looking at the pickup cavaties...

J and T Bird type bucker?.. could it go just pickup with a small plate for the controls?

Yes there's a few options, my original plan was use the existing neck humbucker as it's fine for bassy bass, and for the back end use that Stingray PU that I've got, rather than the jazz. I could do a fake "stereo" with a seperate jack out for each PU was another notion...

I need to sort it so it's got a more playable action first tho, it's a bit "double bass" as it stands! 

You're right about the control plate BTW, surprisingly they haven't just ploughed a slot for the wire between PU hole and controls, so I could just do a cover for the pots etc. I'll be doing a matching Black plate whether it's a full Rick one or a control cover, rather than the usual white. 

Edited by Waddo Soqable
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Having had a bit of a look today I conclude that simply filing down the saddles and generally goofing around with the bridge units isn't going to be the way ahead as regards dropping the action ☹️

This because the amount I need to lower the strings would bring them right down to the front frame edge of the units, in fact I'd need to file a groove there too to lower the strings a little further. plus even if I did grind a load off saddles and bases, I'd end up with no break over angle at all at the bridge (there's not a great deal as they are).. whatever way you look at it, it isn't a good solution, see pics and you'll see what I mean.

This leaves the wood butcher option.. No I'm not going to try and dis-attach the neck and re set, it's too well fixed and getting it off intact  and back on again would be a nightmare. The way to go is I think to carve out a lower 'platform' a few mm below the current body top surface. If I was a skillful carving wiz I could mark out around each unit and chop out a lovely individual shaped slot for each unit, that's not really an option so i'll have to do the next best thing and make a lowered recess for them all to sit on.

This may do me a favour in one way, I'll be able to run an 'earth' wire to the bridge units in a tidier fashion, possibly with a thin metal contact plate under the four of them?  

Looks like i'll be practicing a bit of dremelling / carving /chopping on some random scrap wood before hitting the body itself.

 

 

 

 

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Edited by Waddo Soqable
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Have a look at twoodfrd's latest video for a good methodology for routing a flat platform using simple bish-bosh bang it up jig to support the router allowing you to 'inch up' on the required depth and maintain a level surface with the minimum of hand tool work

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1 hour ago, Aidan63 said:

Have a look at twoodfrd's latest video for a good methodology for routing a flat platform using simple bish-bosh bang it up jig to support the router allowing you to 'inch up' on the required depth and maintain a level surface with the minimum of hand tool work

 

Love twoodfrd, get a little bit excited when a new video drops!

 

 

This would look neat with the individual saddles recessed like the EHB series:

feat_EHB1505_bridge.jpgfeat_EHB1505_jack.jpg

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I'd certainly prefer to do nice individual slots of course as it'd look very cool indeed. I'll check out the various options and vids that are around on the subject and take a view. 

I'd be doing some experiments with scrap for sure! 

Thanks again for all the ideas and encouragement 👍

 

ps I reckon this is going to be a pretty lightweight bass, I put it on the scales as it stands now and it came out at 2.9 k.

I wouldn't think a pair of PUs, pickguard and a bit of wiring would add that much to it when complete. 

Edited by Waddo Soqable
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On 14/01/2023 at 19:36, Waddo Soqable said:

As Inspired by @Bassassin in his excellent thread recently-ish , may I humbly present my attempt, no doubt in numerous instalments as we go.

The Victim, a Rocktile Ricken kinda-copy with another Fugly shaped leaning back headstock. now this could be carved into the Rick hook shape and look a bit more like the prototype, plus various things done to the whole bass to bring it closer to a 4003 appearance, but I fancied doing the headless thing anyway, and have scoped out a few pics of self build headless Rick shape projects that people have done (mainly in the US) before, the RB body shape in my opinion suits the headless malarkey very well.

Here's the basic "donor" plus I've also acquired from AliExpress the Guyker headless bridge x4 units and the head-end string clamp, as used in the above mentioned build.

 

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Saw one of these for sale yesterday. Are they any good as they are or do they need lots of new parts to sound the part?

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