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Ibanez SR300 to Passive P Conversion


PaulThePlug
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I love the worn pebbled body and neck of the Ibby SR's but... just want a plain passive P. So after years of going on about it, I decided to do something about.

 

Ebay ad by Gear4Music for a SR300 with faulty electrics, Spares or Repair.

 

Body/Neck/Bridge/Tuners Sorted... Pots Ordered and some Adagio Flats.

 

Scratches on the body, with a few cracks.

I was hoping this was just on the finish, but after a few hours of heat gun stripping (more to come tommorow...) shows some surface cracks. Hopefully all will be OK.

 

Neck is OK, Sanded and Furniture Waxed the back, Polished the Frets and Cleaned and Lemon Oiled the fretboard. Got to sand off the headstock finish.

 

Wish i weighed the Body before stripping! sealer or filler is real thick in places, and really taken hold of the mahogany, so a few digs, and some possibly already there and filled.

 

Plan is get the pickup cavities filled, and re routed for the Single P with the extra EQ holes 'doweled' - Calling Basschaters!

 

Finish is going to be plain wax, maybe a light coat of thinned Danish Oil if this will help with the surface cracks.

BodyNeck.thumb.jpg.7ab83cbc247ee14ef8b38ede4bbf5a16.jpg

170748562_SRP.thumb.jpg.db9b12e588308a3d6045310aa5e5f73f.jpg

Edited by PaulThePlug
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I've been on to Armstrong Music (Previously WDMusic) who got back to me with a deal on a Kent Armstrong Hot Vintage Alnico P Bass Pickup... Nice.

 

Alpha Pots and Tone Capacitor from 'sgarlets' on ebay, great price and quick for guitar odds 'n sods...

Edited by PaulThePlug
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Body is with @Andyjr1515to do his magic...

Mark at Spartan Music did me a great deal on an Artec QTP Passive 5 Position Tone Switch instead of a standard tone pot...

Adam Davis of Maida Vale Pickups, on Reverb, has kindly wound me a Low Rider with some blemished Alnico IV poles he had knocking about to support my build, so i'll look forward to try that by way of something different...

Been on to Ben at Vanson Guitars on ebay for a pair of their FULL dome knobs that i like and have on my other Bitsas...

And Amy and Colin at Advantage Music for some Adagio Flats...

Edited by PaulThePlug
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Of course entirely up to you, but may I suggest a reverse P pickup orientation, to even out the natural tonal difference (I am talking even of notes of otherwise the same octave, due to the gauge difference) between the lower thicker gauge and higher thinner gauge strings, rather than ascending it, as a traditional oriented P actually does.

 

That is getting a more even tone and response across the strings.

 

 

Edited by Baloney Balderdash
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@Baloney Balderdash... I thought on similar lines some time back, and raised a similar comment when @Andyjr1515 was doing @donslow Fill n Route job for PJ on his SR Body.

 

I've got 2x Ibby GSR200 that as you know are Reverse P and J

 

I've been after this Custom Ibby for a while, so i'm going Single P in Standard Orientation...

Edited by PaulThePlug
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  • 2 weeks later...

OK - we're off.

 

First off is filling the existing chambers.  And yes, Andyjr1515 still hates routers, but for cleaning up the bottoms of old chambers including the conductive paint well, they have their uses.  And with a bearing bit fully enclosed in the chamber so that the word not allowed-ing thing can't leap out and damage the bass body or Andyjr1515's own body parts it's worth a bash:

A3LnTrGl.jpg

 

 

And it does do a decent job, s'pose...

m5E0TF9l.jpg

 

 

Next is another 'this could spoil your day machine' - the band saw.  Note the essential pusher stick.  As a factory manager once said to me, 'always remember that butchers use these to cut through cattle bones...'

 

sswYZOGl.jpg

 

Everything squared up and corners rounded to suit the existing chambers, final dry check that you can ease it down and back out again:

uNzhwSml.jpg

 

 

Then a generous amount of Titebond in the chamber bottom and sides, press it fully home and bash the hell out of it:

hOAvEE3l.jpg

 

Fit the second one in the same way and then, once the glue has hardened, a quick whizz over with the block plane:

z2BkLEql.jpg

 

And yes - it's cross-grained.  Partly stylistic (if you can't hide it, then flaunt it) and mostly practical (suitable wood available thick enough for the chambers' depth).

 

Next job is the battery chamber at the back, which will be done the same way, and then cutting some plugs to fill a number of the controls holes that will be surplus to requirements.

 

 

 

 

 

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On 22/01/2023 at 21:51, PaulThePlug said:

I love the worn pebbled body and neck of the Ibby SR's but... just want a plain passive P. So after years of going on about it, I decided to do something about.

 

Ebay ad by Gear4Music for a SR300 with faulty electrics, Spares or Repair.

 

Body/Neck/Bridge/Tuners Sorted...

Pots Ordered and some Adagio Flats from @Bassybert

 

Scratches on the body, with a few cracks.

I was hoping this was just on the finish, but after a few hours of heat gun stripping (more to come tommorow...) shows some surface cracks. Hopefully all will be OK.

 

Neck is OK, Sanded and Furniture Waxed the back, Polished the Frets and Cleaned and Lemon Oiled the fretboard. Got to sand off the headstock finish.

 

Wish i weighed the Body before stripping! sealer or filler is real thick in places, and really taken hold of the mahogany, so a few digs, and some possibly already there and filled.

 

Plan is get the pickup cavities filled, and re routed for the Single P with the extra EQ holes 'doweled' - Calling Basschaters!

 

Finish is going to be plain wax, maybe a light coat of thinned Danish Oil if this will help with the surface cracks.

BodyNeck.thumb.jpg.7ab83cbc247ee14ef8b38ede4bbf5a16.jpg

170748562_SRP.thumb.jpg.db9b12e588308a3d6045310aa5e5f73f.jpg

Rear.jpg

 

Your there! It's already reliced 😀

How about an oval ray type scratch plate to cover the routes. It will save trying to get  good fit and timber match for the routeing.

Just a thought

Sorry didn't realise you have done it already

Edited by Ralf1e
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Unexpected Weight Loss...

 

Weighed up the OE PowerSpan Pickups, Pre Amp, Pots, (prior to posting out) and factoring in for the Knobs... 700g - Monster Heavy Pickups!...

 

Just weighed the Vol Pot, Artec Tone, 2 Knobs, and the Maida Vale P and Kent Armstrong P (100g each)... 150g

 

Thats a MASSIVE saving of 550g... Half a Kilo!.. now with a bit more weight saving with all the filler 'n finish gone... and my other SR300 weighing 3.8kg...

 

This could be down to 3.2kg / 7lb..

Edited by PaulThePlug
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And so to cutting the new chambers.  @PaulThePlug has given me loads of photos and accurate measurements of the positioning so this morning was all about marking on the body the centre-lines and corners of the pickups and then the outline of the two halves of the P pickup, including a 1mm clearance at the sides and ends:

 

 

RdGSK1Wl.jpg

 

On point worthy of note for other builders is the lugs on these types of pickups.  The lugs are offset.  And the radius of the lugs is actually MUCH bigger than you think.  Including the clearance I had to use a 14mm drill!!

wgnLG3jl.jpg

 

Surely not????

 

Yup

RGlfT9ql.jpg

 

So first job is the drilling the radii for the lugs and corners:

pqAH8Bxl.jpg

 

Then roughing out part-depth and up to the line with a large forstner bit:

1WhAZD4l.jpg

 

Followed by tidying up of the edges exactly up to the external pencil line with mallet and chisel to create an accurate and smooth run for the router bearing:

xMsYzd7l.jpg

 

And finally routing to depth:

2Hr5A8yl.jpg

 

And new chamber done:

MTsQTaKl.jpg

 

Next and pretty much final job is sanding down and a quick slurry-and-buff, which I should be able to get done by the end of tomorrow :)

 

 

 

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Mate... such a neat 'n sweat looking job! Taking the pickup pair that 8 - 10mm further forward to the neck, from the measured P position, really gives it a look of balance and symmetry, spanning the old cavity...

Pleasing to they eye... great job by @Andyjr1515 it's those little details that make all the difference... Thanks.

Edited by PaulThePlug
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7 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

And so to cutting the new chambers.  @PaulThePlug has given me loads of photos and accurate measurements of the positioning so this morning was all about marking on the body the centre-lines and corners of the pickups and then the outline of the two halves of the P pickup, including a 1mm clearance at the sides and ends:

 

 

RdGSK1Wl.jpg

 

On point worthy of note for other builders is the lugs on these types of pickups.  The lugs are offset.  And the radius of the lugs is actually MUCH bigger than you think.  Including the clearance I had to use a 14mm drill!!

wgnLG3jl.jpg

 

Surely not????

 

Yup

RGlfT9ql.jpg

 

So first job is the drilling the radii for the lugs and corners:

pqAH8Bxl.jpg

 

Then roughing out part-depth and up to the line with a large forstner bit:

1WhAZD4l.jpg

 

Followed by tidying up of the edges exactly up to the external pencil line with mallet and chisel to create an accurate and smooth run for the router bearing:

xMsYzd7l.jpg

 

And finally routing to depth:

2Hr5A8yl.jpg

 

And new chamber done:

MTsQTaKl.jpg

 

Next and pretty much final job is sanding down and a quick slurry-and-buff, which I should be able to get done by the end of tomorrow :)

 

 

 

That is absolutely amazing. Looks perfect.

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