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Posted (edited)

Based on what I've seen in youtube videos (and with limited experience) yes.

I successfully did some pup routing using a much less powerful router and I intend to use a similar hand router to the one you listed for my next build, but the one I've gone for is a lot less expensive ... but has great reviews! https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LVVJ99U

 

I am given to understand tho that a template is essential and that it is best to remove most of the wood using a wide drill bit (bit and brace type drill bit), this reduces the work the router has to do and makes the process smoother/better.

 

S'manth x

 

Edited by Smanth
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Posted

A template for pup routs is essential, and i suggest Simo in the Affiliates forum.  He made me a beautiful sturdy perspex template.

 

Just give him  accurate dimensions.  I used  digital calipers

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Posted
58 minutes ago, Smanth said:

Based on what I've seen in youtube videos (and with limited experience) yes.

I successfully did some pup routing using a much less powerful router and I intend to use a similar hand router to the one you listed for my next build, but the one I've gone for is a lot less expensive ... but has great reviews! https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LVVJ99U

 

I am given to understand tho that a template is essential and that it is best to remove most of the wood using a wide drill bit (bit and brace type drill bit), this reduces the work the router has to do and makes the process smoother/better.

 

S'manth x

 

That looks just the job and under 40 squid.. I may be needing something like that too. I can borrow a larger one from a mate but it's a bit overly hefty and I'd think a "palm" size one would be far easier and more intuitive to use, particularly for PU routes etc.. 

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Posted

I have one of those Katsu palm routers and I can’t fault it. You can also get a router base for it to turn it into a normal plunge router. I use the router base most of the time. Very useful tool.

 

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Posted

Another vote for the Katsu router here.

 

I also have a couple of plunge routers, a Wolf and a Power Devil, one of the fitted in a router table. They’re both fine, but I often feel I have better control with the smaller router. I also have a router attachment for a Dremel, though I haven’t actually got any bits for it yet, so I can’t say how good it might be. I doubt it would be right for cutting as deep as a pick-up needs.

 

Personally, because I’m a cheapskate, I would make a template out of MDF or plywood (most likely MDF. Using superglue to harden the edges), using saws, a drill, rasps, files and sanding, to get it as accurate as possible. Then use that to make a template out of perspex.

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Posted (edited)

Another Katsu router user here too. My method used to involve templates but I now prefer the @Andyjr1515 method. First, mark out the pickup shape on the bass body then, if you are using Fender/Musicman style pickups with the semi-circular bump outs for the fixing screws, drill the holes for these using the right diameter drill bit (drilling the corner radius's at the same time). Then I hog out most of the remaining material with a flat bottomed Forstner bit, before using a sharp chisel to make the pickup square edges down to about 5mm before using this edge to guide the router bit that has a top bearing, to remove the remaining material down to the required depth. With this method there is no chance of your template being out, or moving during cutting, and because most of the material is removed before you go anywhere near the router, there is less chance of the router 'digging in' and going off piste.

 

@Andyjr1515did a great explanation of his technique here showing how he uses it for neck pockets as well as pickup routes.

Edited by JPJ
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