Light 'vintage' stain on raw maple

[Jakester]

I have some raw maple parts that I would like to stain to achieve a more 'vintage' maple finish. 

 

I was looking to put a final finish on of Osmo Polyx Oil, using a 'wipe-on' method, so I would like a stain that can be applied in the same way, and will work with the Osmo. 

 

Does anyone have any product recommendations please?

[bloke_zero]

I used a light application of 'Montypresso', it's ok, but is a little more brown than the amber you might want. It certainly helps remove some of that Ibiza 'first day on the beach' studio tan feel from the maple:

Bloody expensive though! https://www.montysguitars.com/products/montys-montypresso-relic-wax

 

Probably only really worth it if you're also going to use it for it's intended purpose: darkening pao ferro or light rosewood fingerboards as well. (Which it excels at).

[Ralf1e]

Cheap effective solution in here

[Buddster]

I've re done a maple neck i sanded back with Burnt Linseed oil to create that effect. Worked really well. The more layers you add the more the effect. Make sure each layer is dry first though.  The more layers the longer the drying time. Gave a really nice feel to play with. 

[Twincam]

Boiled linseed works well. Although can take a few applications. And it's not that durable. Does turn a nice vintage colour with sunlight. 

May not be suitable alone on a bass that's going to be heavily gigged. But if used with something over the top it should work nicely. 

 

Maybe test any 2 products on a small hidden area first. Neck heal or neck pocket. 

[Buddster]

Doh! 🤦. Boiled Linseed, that's what I meant. 

[Waddo Soqable]

I've got a Stingray neck to do and I have boiled linseed, a big 5ltr can of it, and was considering it as a finish. I'd also like a vintage-y colour, I'm wondering if the oil alone would do this if built up in layers.

 

The Ralf1e thing with turmeric is interesting but I did try the powder form in some water on something else and it went a horrible canary yellow so won't be doing that! 

Guess it's the oil or buy some tinted nitro... Can you nitro over linseed if its properly dried btw ? 

[Buddster]

This is the finish I went for on my maple neck after removing the poly. The headstock is the original as i didn't want to loose the decals. This 4 coats of boiled linced oil, aplied with a rag, allowing the previous coat to dry. I find it a much smoother feel than the poly that was there (I sanded to 800 grit). It really brought out the grain as well. 

I did a test sample on a piece of maple i had between the boiled Linseed, Danish Oil and Beeswax and this was the most 'vintage' look. 

Very pleased with the outcome. 

 

[Buddster]

Thinking about it, what Linceed did that nitrocellulose didn't  do is bring out the grain. This is the neck of my 76 jazz, and although the colour is similar, the grain is definitely more pronounced on the Linceed (as oil soaks in, nitro stays on top). It's also more satin than hi-gloss. This what I was after, so it was ok for me, but just so you know before hand. 👍

 

 

 

[Waddo Soqable]

Having seen the ones on here I think I'll give the boiled linseed a go, I believe the EBMM lot use oil finishes on their stuff these days too. 

 

[Waddo Soqable]

7 minutes ago, Buddster said:

Thinking about it, what Linceed did that nitrocellulose didn't  do is bring out the grain. This is the neck of my 76 jazz, and although the colour is similar, the grain is definitely more pronounced on the Linceed (as oil soaks in, nitro stays on top). It's also more satin than hi-gloss. This what I was after, so it was ok for me, but just so you know before hand. 👍

 

 

 

How long did you leave each coat to dry before recoating btw? 

I assume you wiped it on with a rag.. 

[Ralf1e]

9 hours ago, Waddo Soqable said:

I've got a Stingray neck to do and I have boiled linseed, a big 5ltr can of it, and was considering it as a finish. I'd also like a vintage-y colour, I'm wondering if the oil alone would do this if built up in layers.

 

The Ralf1e thing with turmeric is interesting but I did try the powder form in some water on something else and it went a horrible canary yellow so won't be doing that! 

Guess it's the oil or buy some tinted nitro... Can you nitro over linseed if its properly dried btw ? 

I did do a test with powder a you did but found two issues as you say it came up canary yellow and the powder also drops into the grain. The juice from the rubbed on fresh root did neither of these and can look bright but oiling afterwards does tone it down.

[Ralf1e]

You most likely all know this but just to be safe.

Never leave finishing oil cloth laying around even just overnight. Soak it in water and put it outside preferably in a bbq or incinerator. Not in the bin!

It can spontaneously combust.

Edited May 12, 2023 by Ralf1e

[Buddster]

The first one was a couple or 3 hours indoors. Then progressively longer. The penultimate one probably 24 hours or more. It takes longer each time as the oil needs to sink in (and dry) and obviously the previous coat is already there (if you see what I mean). The last coat, although touch dry in a few days will take a few weeks to fully harden. It xan then be buffed up. 

Yes with a rag, very light coats mind or you'll be waiting forever for it to dry. 

Be patient, but it's worth it. 

[Waddo Soqable]

Good stuff thanks 👍

I've used LO on things like wooden tool handles in the past to try and preserve them, but obviously in those cases I've just sloshed it on as it didn't matter what it looked like or if it stayed a bit tacky for a while. 

I'll have an initial go over the weekend

[Buddster]

Good luck. 

Thin coats.... 🧥

[Jakester]

Well, all looks good so far! I was actually doing some raw maple drum hoops that arrived unfinished. I was after a light vintage look as that matches the factory Yamaha look, albeit the Yamaha ones I have are about 20 years old so darkened a bit. 
 

However, the Osmo Polyx oil was exactly what I was after. Two coats in with light sanding between coats and it’s perfect. 
 

Here’s a pic after the first coat: