Changing A Bass Bridge. Have you done it?

[bassjim]

Hi Bass Hive

 

I've recently bought a new Modern Vintage Bass which is pretty good actually. I'm a very particular customer so I'm gonna be very picky about things so that fact I bought this says a lot about how good I think this bass is.(see my other rant about Whats going on with Fender) 

 

But...theres always something isn't there!!

 

It comes with a vintage bridge (well that is the point!) and the properties of this bridge are, as it says on the tin, adds to the overall good stuff that makes this bass sound great and plays so very well. And thats true. It does.

 

So.... not all the bridge screw saddles stay in place and will come loose whilst playing over a few hours.If you change the strings ,the screws move, all your painstaking set up to get the action just as you like it needs the same attention all over again.  I've been recommended using a bit of Lock-tight Glue which should solve this issue and its a known but nessacary thing with this type of bridge. Lock-tight ordered.

 

I feel this bass is a keeper, loved it in a rehearsal  and its doing its first gig this evening but long term this is gonna get frustrating I think. 

 

Anyone thats changed the bridge on their bass had new problems arise from it? Things i should look out for based on your experience good and bad?

 

Please let me know, appreciate any good advise in advance

[TheGreek]

Are you thinking a high mass bridge as the replacement?

The screws on the Fender hi mass line up with original bbot ones. 

Shop around as they are available for £21

[Trueno]

I hate bbot bridges… more aesthetic than anything else. I replaced the bridges on a MIM Mustang and a Squire SS Jaguar with a Gotoh bridge. It was a straight drop in replacement in both cases.

[How1]

I fitted a Badass II to my Fender Jazz some years ago. No problems whatsoever, it’s pretty much the easiest upgrade I’ve done. Been fine ever since.

Edited April 29, 2023 by How1

[Reggaebass]

Maybe try just changing the saddle screws first before changing the whole bridge, they might just be a bit loose 

[BlueMoon]

52 minutes ago, Reggaebass said:

Maybe try just changing the saddle screws first before changing the whole bridge, they might just be a bit loose 

This ^^^^^ would be my first approach……….then explore changing the bridge if it’s still problematic.

[Hellzero]

LocTite ThreadLocker is the correct name and will solve your issue by "blocking" the thread of the screw, no need to replace the bridge at all.

 

I'll recommend the #294, also called Green ThreadLocker, because it's the less powerful one.

[PaulThePlug]

Spalding Fasteners on ebay.

Dog or Cone Point SS grub screws

Check Metric or imperial.

8, 10, 12mm length so stops all the extra poking out above the saddle.

Low Strength Thread lock, real small dribble, put tape down around the bridge, as the solution is red or blue etc, so might stain, particularly white scratchplate.

[lidl e]

4 hours ago, How1 said:

I fitted a Badass II to my Fender Jazz some years ago. No problems whatsoever, it’s pretty much the easiest upgrade I’ve done. Been fine ever since.

Me too!

[nilorius]

No, why shoud i ?

[Dan Dare]

1 hour ago, nilorius said:

No, why shoud i ?

 

This isn't about you. Jim was asking our advice. If you have none to offer, why comment at all?

[AndyTravis]

2 hours ago, nilorius said:

No, why shoud i ?

You weren’t asked - really odd response.

 

@bassjim

 

I haven’t seen the MV basses in person,but I’m presuming they’re BBOT/Fender style.

 

Gotoh bridges are ace - the 201 springs to mind, but they do a nice vintage one too.

[Cato]

If the bass has the standard Fender 5 screw bridge arrangement and spacing then it's one of the easiest mods you can do, there are many after market replacements that will drop straight in at price points from £20 or less to upwards of £100.

 

I put a Baibicz on a Squier a few years ago and it really was as simple as unscrewing the original and then putting on the new one, maybe a 20 minute job to make the change including taking the strings off and putting new ones on.

 

Obviously setting up the new bridge takes a bit longer.

 

If it's not a standard 5 screw fitting then finding a drop in replacement may be a bit more difficult and the choice will be more limited.

Edited April 29, 2023 by Cato

[Damnthatlazlo]

Swapped out my old mim jazz bridge for himass a couple of weeks ago. Holes lined up perfect. No real issues. A bit of saddle height adjustment (might have been an idea to note my settings first, maybe maybe not.) but was surprisingly straight forward

[SteveXFR]

I swapped the stock Fender bridge on my P bass for a Fender high mass bridge and it transformed the tone.

 

 

 

 

Only joking, it made bugger all difference other than the saddle screws don't fall out and I prefer it for palm muting (yeah I use a pick, wanna fight about it?)

Edited April 29, 2023 by SteveXFR

[fleabag]

No, why should i  ?

[Bluewine]

8 hours ago, Reggaebass said:

Maybe try just changing the saddle screws first before changing the whole bridge, they might just be a bit loose 

 

You guys are probably allot more mechanical and handy than me. I'd take it to a reputable luthier.

 

If I tried to install a new bridge the bass would be un-playable. 😀

 

Blue

[Cato]

19 minutes ago, Bluewine said:

 

You guys are probably allot more mechanical and handy than me. I'd take it to a reputable luthier. 

 

If I tried to install a new bridge the bass would be un-playable. 😀

 

Blue

 

I have the techinical ability and dexterity of a drunk Koala and I managed to do it.

 

You'd be fine.

[ossyrocks]

15 hours ago, Hellzero said:

LocTite ThreadLocker is the correct name and will solve your issue by "blocking" the thread of the screw, no need to replace the bridge at all.

 

I'll recommend the #294, also called Green ThreadLocker, because it's the less powerful one.

The least powerful one is Loctite 222 (purple). Green is the next strength up.

 

 I’m looking at this issue myself at the moment. I had to replace all the height adjustment grubscrews on my ‘73 P bass as they were so full of some gunk substance they wouldn’t move. Someone had previously tried to do this job, but maybe with glue, and I could only remove them by screwing them down and out of the bottom of the saddles.

The new grubscrews work fine, but they do have a tendency to move on their own, particularly on E string. My solution at the moment is to just check it before rehearsals and gigs and adjust if necessary. I’ve ordered the purple Loctite as it’s the easiest to release but will hold the screw and prevent it from moving on it’s own. 
 

Rob

[Martin E]

One problem which can arise is not being able to adjust the saddles on the new bridge low enough to get a decent action. Replacement bridges are more substantial than the original with thicker base plates which can mean the whole thing sits a little higher. It depends on the make and your individual instrument.

 

Hopefully a replacement will work perfectly but sometimes you may have to shim the neck to get the required adjustment. Just something you should be aware of.

[Grahambythesea]

Like @How1i changed to a Badass on a vintage 1976 Precision (sadly long gone), it was a doddle as everything just lined up. It only needed a set up. A screwdriver job.

[Owen]

15 hours ago, Cato said:

 

I have the techinical ability and dexterity of a drunk Koala

Apparently Koalas are not drunk. They are permanently stoned. What they eat (eucalyptus?) sends them, maaaaaan. 

[Reggaebass]

2 minutes ago, Owen said:

Apparently Koalas are not drunk. They are permanently stoned. What they eat (eucalyptus?) sends them, maaaaaan. 

Where can you get this eucalyptus..  asking for a friend 

[PaulThePlug]

@bassjim have a listen to this..

I'd go with a clean, new screws if long, and thread lock.

[PaulThePlug]

@Owen @Reggaebass

Barnaby and Me