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Short scale options


FinnDave

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I've been playing bass now for about 50 years. I reckon 49 of those years, I have played standard 34" scale basses. For the last fix months or more, I have not been able to play because I have developed osteoporosis arthritis in the fingers of my left (fretting) hand, primary the index finger. If I play for more than a few minutes it becomes too painful to continue.

I had a random though that a short scale bass would be less likely to aggravate the OA, as the stretch is much less. Has anyone any experience of switching to a short scale because of OA?

I think the one and only short scale I have owned was my first bass, a Vox that I bought from a guitarist neighbour in 1973/4 for £7.00. I remember it as having little tone and floppy strings, but I know a bit more about strings now and have decent amp and speaker to compensate.

To me, a short scale means a Fender Mustang, but I am sure there are others out there. Any suggestions? I plan to drop in at a music shop and try one out, but reluctant to buy one straight away in case it doesn't really help.

Any suggestions, advice, or just plain 'forget it' will be welcome (some more than others, obviously).

I just finished chatting with our guitarist and he thinks it's a good idea, but he is a guitarist...

Last time I played was two gigs with different bands on October the first. That's far too long without playing!

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I own 4 short scale basses.  

 

Nordstrand Acinonyx - unusual aesthetic but so easy to play.  EQ/pup selector buttons 'might' be limiting.

Sandberg Lionel (fretless) - the most regular shaped and sounding (i.e. Fender P bass clone)

Dano Longhorn - lovely and light, well balanced and surprisingly versatile

Hofner Club bass (not the violin shaped one) - hollow body (technically so is the Dano to a degree) which gives it character and a distinctive tone which I'm quite liking.

 

Any questions on these, fire away.  :) 

 

 

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Sorry to hear about the arthritis, hope you find a combo of pain killers that make it manageable for you.

 

If you're not sure if a short scale will help, then maybe it's worth picking up a cheap one to try out before trying to find 'the one' (well, one of many by the time GAS kicks in). You can pick up a Squier Bronco for less than £100 second hand. Take it home, play it for a few weeks and see if it does the trick, that way you're not losing out on anything.

 

If it does the trick then I'd be looking out for......

 

JMJ Mustang - haven't played one, but have heard only good things.

G&L Fallout. I've only played a Tribute, but I really liked it, the MFD pup sounded great.

Gibson SG. Sounds pretty dark and pretty massive, loads of fun to play and is pretty light because the body is so thin.

Guild Starfire 1. Am I right in saying you had/have a Jack Casady? Could be an option if you wanted a hollow body.

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An approach that worked for me in determining if a shorter scale helped was to pop a capo on at the third fret and retuning.  Depending on your string gauge you may find things feel a touch floppy, but it should allow you to see if the shorter fret spacing helps your fretting hand or not.

S'manth x 

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Like you @FinnDave I have been playing for about 50 years, mostly on 34" basses.  At 64 I am luckily not yet suffering arthritis, but age is taking its gradual toll on the hands.  Over the last few years increasingly using short scales has made sustained playing easier.  As per @Jonesy my SG bass is a good tool, really light.  At the moment I am getting vast playing times on my Indian version Chowny SWB-1s (fretted and fretless).   Build quality is excellent and they seem real bargains s/h.  The Sandberg Lionel looks like a really safe bet.

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I moved recently to the Fender JMJ Mustangs, not because of arthritis but bad back, needed a smaller, lighter bass, and one where I could play more with my elbow by my side. I find it incredibly easy to play and it has a Precision type neck, for those who like Jazz necks I believe the Vintera range are thinner.

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Thanks for the replies, some god advice there. Interesting that no one has said anything negative about shorter scale basses. Once this weekend's over (daughter's wedding) then I will find a shop with a shorty in stock and have a go. 

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Short scale basses are having something of a renaissance and the choices really are bewildering these days.  I believe you are a Fender man so are spoilt for choice. The JMJ Mustang has been mentioned and I think in your shoes that would be the first one I'd try. 

 

I find myself using a Gibson Les Paul Jnr DC or - in particular - a 1970s Eros EB-3 short scale these days as the tone fits my band perfectly. :) 

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Ive used shorties pretty much exclusively on gigs for the last 5 years. I got the first one, a Mikey Way sig Mustang because of the large flake finish which suited the band ‘look’ but quickly realised the benefits of using it on a small stage with a singer who flaps his arms a lot. Since then I’ve added a JMJ and a US Fallout and have also found them a bonus with my aging digits. 

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Another vote on the Danelectro Longhorn Bass.

 

Don't let the cheap building materials fool you (and the neck is still Hard Maple with a Rosewood (Pau Ferro on more recent ones) fretboard), this is a seriously great sounding bass that is extremely comfortable to play.

 

And honestly personally I think it looks pretty amazing too.

 

61S9vCnKr4L.jpg

 

 

Edited by Baloney Balderdash
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On 25/05/2023 at 21:46, Smanth said:

An approach that worked for me in determining if a shorter scale helped was to pop a capo on at the third fret and retuning.  Depending on your string gauge you may find things feel a touch floppy, but it should allow you to see if the shorter fret spacing helps your fretting hand or not.

S'manth x 

Though with that approach the fretboard will be accordingly wider, unlike a real short scale bass.

 

Also one should adjust their plucking technique to the lesser tension of the strings on the short scale, and not expect to be able to play exactly the same way as with a long scale bass, a different instrument after all.

 

Also thicker gauge strings on short scale basses to compensate for the lower tension isn't really the answer, as they will end up really stiff because of the shorter vibrating length, especially as you go up the neck, which will affect tone and sustain negatively, instead, as said, one should adjust their plucking technique accordingly.

 

I've found that thinner gauge strings on short scales, but adjusting your plucking technique, gives the best results.

 

 

Edited by Baloney Balderdash
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To be honest, your approach of trying a few out, is (in my view) by far the best plan.

 

I started out with a Mustang re-issue, but found upper fret access a bind. From here I moved on to a Supro Huntingdon II which is where 'coin properly dropped' with me. I briefly had the misfortune to own a Mensinger Joker - which with its prison workshop build quality went quickly. Ultimately I found the controls on the Supro - in the way of my 'wham bam thank you mam' technique and moved it on before having to modify it. This is where I ordered my first Serek (MW2), soon followed by a 2nd hand SS Spector (CTB fretted), then there was another Serek (MW2 different pick-up) and as I'm a bit dim, a third Serek (MW2 different Pick-up). I actually started looking into an additional Serek, but build times and prices went a little hyperbolic - So I ordered a Wilcocks SS Mullarkey - receiving it at the back end of last year

 

Strings are another issue, by far my favorite strings were Thomastick SS flats, but La Bella LTF's seem to suit the Sereks better, the only strings that (for me) work on the Wilcock are La-Bella Roundwonds.

 

I'm sorted for short scale basses, but I could see myself owning a SS Musicman - who knows. 

 

There are loads of opinions out there - the above is my experience.

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There’s some good advice already here, @FinnDave.

I was in a similar position a couple of years ago and after consulting @Paul S, I bought a Harley Benton short scale P bass, which was £79 plus postage at the time. It was excellent, straight out of the box, for the price. It confirmed that short scale was the way to go for me and I subsequently bought a Mustang. I’ve kept the HB as back-up and sometimes gig it as my main squeeze. I think if you did the same you’d either be able to move it on easily or keep it like I did.

 

Another thing to consider is that a shorter scale bass can make travelling on the bus, train or in a small car less of a pain. 

 

Good luck with the journey!

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@FinnDave I see that you've advertised for a reasonably priced Mustang/Bronco in the wanted section, why not give the Harley Benton MV-4MS (catchy name) a go for £199? https://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_mv_4msb_gotoh_bk.htm The lack of blend control/pickup selection is a bit of a nuisance, but a blend control replacing the volume control is a solution. I like the neck pickup so much, I just disconnected the J pickup altogether.

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I own 2 from very different price points

 

A Sandberg Lionel and a Jim Deacon P.

 

The Lionel is a Superlight and is only about 5.7lb. It has become my main bass. It took me a little while to settle on the best strings for it but it sounds massive and is very easy to play.

As I've said in the other shortie thread I am considering the previously unthinkable - selling my 'berg TT4 jazz to be able to order a TT4 Lionel instead.

 

A good modern shortie can sound just as good as a long scale. 

 

I did think about a Mustang but the balance and higher weight put me off.

 

730068639_Lionel1.thumb.jpg.a168fd17e2f1bdfe77b029e29361e573.jpg

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I have been playing my Sterling short scale for the past hour or so - well I say I did - it felt like it was playing itself!!

 

Amazing little tone bomb - it has a 3 way selector - parallel/ single/ series - favouring the parallel currently.

 

A bit more expensive that many of the short scales currently available but it feels well built. Lovely satin finish neck!!

 

No hesitation recommending one.

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Sorry about the hand issue. 

 

I have had several SS basses, Ibanez, Chowny, mustang, Jaguar, maruszczyk, Hofner etc. The one I liked the most was the Sterling Stingray, lovely bass. The best value bass to Dip your toe in the water was the SX Precision, which can be had for £200ish new or £100 s/h on ebay. The one I had was better than the Fender Mustang it replaced.

 

In the end going from 34" to 30" and back was a bit much for me, (although if you move exclusively to 30" I don't think it will be a problem), so I settled on 32".

 

 

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On 26/05/2023 at 12:41, Baloney Balderdash said:

Though with that approach the fretboard will be accordingly wider, unlike a real short scale bass.

 

Also one should adjust their plucking technique to the lesser tension of the strings on the short scale, and not expect to be able to play exactly the same way as with a long scale bass, a different instrument after all.

 

Also thicker gauge strings on short scale basses to compensate for the lower tension isn't really the answer, as they will end up really stiff because of the shorter vibrating length, especially as you go up the neck, which will affect tone and sustain negatively, instead, as said, one should adjust their plucking technique accordingly.

 

I've found that thinner gauge strings on short scales, but adjusting your plucking technique, gives the best results.

 

 

Totally fair points.

But to see if a smaller fret spacing helped my fretting hand (and it did) I found it a useful, easy and cheap approach.

S'manth x

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On 27/05/2023 at 21:29, Smanth said:

Totally fair points.

But to see if a smaller fret spacing helped my fretting hand (and it did) I found it a useful, easy and cheap approach.

S'manth x

I tried it and it did help. Hoping to try out a short scale bass on the next few days to see if it really helps. If it does, I'll be shopping for one.

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Worth remembering that if the bass has full size tuners then regular long scale strings will usually be fine. It’s s when mini tuning posts are used that the coil size is too small causing string breaks.

 

String tension and stiffness vary so much across the brands that strings can be found quite easily. Going up a gauge but for a different brand can actually mean a lower tension and / or stiffness. I usually use 40-100 steel D’addario rounds on several basses, but for my Lionel I used DR Hi-Beams 45-105. They are round core and more flexible than the hex core D’addario.

 

Roto shortscale Monel flats 40-95 are still way higher tension and stiffness than any 45-105 rounds I’ve tried.

 

For the Lionel my favourite rounds are the Hi-beams, and favourite flats are Fender 9050L. (Well, it would be TI flats but a nickel allergy means I can’t use nickel strings anymore, but the 9050s are surprisingly close to my ear).

 

I’ve got La Bella Deep Talking Flats on my Jim Deacon cheap bass for when I want a super deep old tone, helped by a 60s wind Aguilar pickup.

 

I am going to keep my long scale Sandberg because I’m sure I will regret selling it if I did, but saving up for a shorty version has begun. Superlight options, of course!

 

 

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On 25/05/2023 at 20:46, Smanth said:

An approach that worked for me in determining if a shorter scale helped was to pop a capo on at the third fret and retuning.  Depending on your string gauge you may find things feel a touch floppy, but it should allow you to see if the shorter fret spacing helps your fretting hand or not.

S'manth x 

 

 

Although for different reasons,  I use a capo on the 2nd fret on a bass tuned to D standard. I find it works a treat.

 

Scale length is about 30½ inches  that way.

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