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B sting on Passive Bass


LENX
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I'm wondering if any of you folk use a specific make of low B string,(make and size) that "YOU HAVE FOUND THAT WORKS BEST FOR YOU"  that has good definition on passive Basses. also what kind of settings on the Amp and what size speaker. 

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2 hours ago, LENX said:

I'm wondering if any of you folk use a specific make of low B string,(make and size) that "YOU HAVE FOUND THAT WORKS BEST FOR YOU"  that has good definition on passive Basses. also what kind of settings on the Amp and what size speaker. 

While very subjective. You're going to get a lot of opinions. I switched to 5 string 4 years ago. Let all my 4's go. I now have a stable of 6, 5 string passive basses. I used D'Adario strings when I played 4 string. After switching I tried a lot of strings. I went all the way around the dial and ended up back where I started. I like the "Half-Rounds". I use them on all my basses. As far as settings go. Again subjective. Watch the low mids. Besides I don't use amps much anymore. When I do it's my Mesa Subway cabs and my Subway heads or my Epifani. But live shows are always amp-less.

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I like to use relatively thin B strings. Someone once recommended I try a 0.125 and I haven't looked back. It has a faster attack than a fatter string, it feels less rigid, and intonation improved across the board because of the reduced rigidity. It still sounds plenty tight as long as the neck of the bass is rigid enough - I get the best low B from my graphite-necked Status, with Status' own taperwound stainless steel Hotwire strings. I use non-tapered strings on all my other basses.

None of my 5-strings are currently passive though, but I'm not sure how that would make a difference. One of them has an active/passive-switch and sounds equally good in both settings. The Status always has the EQ engaged, and my Warwick only has an EQ bypass but has active pickups so it's never truly passive. 

Edited by LeftyJ
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I have TI flats on my passive PJ5, with a 136 B. Great sound. For rounds I use a 130 B.

 

I always go for the largest gauge strings I can find, IMO gives a better tone.

 

I use Aguilar amps and 1 or 2 112 Barefaced cabs. On most gigs my EQ settings are at or very close to 12 o'clock.

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3 hours ago, BigRedX said:

Warwick Black Label Tapered 135 B.

 

Bass goes direct into the PA via a Line6 Helix.

 

Also lowering the pickups on the bass side has helped with note definition.

I used these when I had my old Warwick Thumb 5-string bass (that I mainly used in passive mode), partly because other brands wouldn't fit in the saddle slot*. Great sounding and feeling B string. I think "piano tone" would describe it best.

 

*I only found out after I stopped playing it that warwick sold spare saddles for non-tapered strings.

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5 hours ago, LeftyJ said:

I like to use relatively thin B strings. Someone once recommended I try a 0.125 and I haven't looked back. It has a faster attack than a fatter string, it feels less rigid, and intonation improved across the board because of the reduced rigidity. It still sounds plenty tight as long as the neck of the bass is rigid enough....

None of my 5-strings are currently passive though, but I'm not sure how that would make a difference. One of them has an active/passive-switch and sounds equally good in both settings.

Exactly this. IME narrower is better for the reasons stated. If it doesn't sound good on a passive bass, it's not going to be better with an active preamp.

Also a taper core for a better break angle over the bridge saddle may help IME.

Edited by Gwilym
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I use a Dunlop Nickel 120 B string on my Yamaha BB2025 and it sounds fine. Tension and tone is enough in keeping with the 40/60/80/100 guages that makes up the rest of the set that it has never bothered me. And to me, a 5 string with an inconsistent, weak B string is as much use as the proverbial chocolate teapot.

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Personally, I think everyone plays so differently what works for one person doesnt work for another.  On my five string basses I use Newtone Custom guage nickel wrapped roundcore strings 50-130.  They work really well on my ACG and ok on my Sire, at my next string change on the Sire I'll try something else, but it will still be nickel wrapped steel.  

 

 My thought process is always material, feel (stiffness), sound

 

I like Nickel as its more forgiving on my fingers, and produces (for me) less string noise.  The strings need to have quite a loose feel, I hate strings that are too rigid.  Then they need to sound fairly bright and growly.  I usually use trial and error after that.

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I've used allsorts of strings on my 5 strong fretless which is passive. I've had five string fretted as well... The fact it's passive has never really crossed my mind when buying strings. I've had this bass for 21 years so it's had flats, stainless rounds and now nickel rounds. My amp choices are based on what amp sound I want and not whether my bass is passive or active, four or five string... I'm a bit confused at the whole question to be honest. 

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