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I HATE TECHNOLOGY!!


TheGreek
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I need to make a pair of pickup rings so drew up the design on Paint 3D - I can't create a void in 3D - it's driving me mental getting nowhere. It's essentially 2mm thick frame. I bet it's easy for those who know...

 

Can anybody  help? Anybody have access to a 3D printer?

 

 

Pickup cover FMP1.png

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2 minutes ago, TheGreek said:

I need to make a pair of pickup rings so drew up the design on Paint 3D - I can't create a void in 3D - it's driving me mental getting nowhere. It's essentially 2mm thick frame. I bet it's easy for those who know...

 

Can anybody  help? Anybody have access to a 3D printer?

 

 

Pickup cover FMP1.png

@GisserD is a 3D maestro methinx, he does the Future Impact small enclosures.

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44 minutes ago, TheGreek said:

...Can anybody  help?...

 

Something like this..?

 

1t6uFg9.png

 

A bit more detail would be best. Radius of curved corners..? Diameter of screw holes..? Colour required, and how many..? Urgent or not so much..? :rWNVV2D:

 

Douglas

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14 minutes ago, Waddo Soqable said:

But why not get a bit of appropriate thickness plastic sheet and simply cut it out and file to finish? 

really hate technology, ^ that'd be my method

 

It's the future, mate.

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17 minutes ago, Waddo Soqable said:

But why not get a bit of appropriate thickness plastic sheet and simply cut it out and file to finish? 

really hate technology, ^ that'd be my method

 

Because it's actually quicker, cheaper and easier to print it. You have to get appropriate plastic sheet, cut it neatly, cut holes in that are in the exact place to the right diameter, taper them for a counter sunk screw and then make two of them. I designed all of that in F360 in 10 mins and it'll take 90 mins to print even at a high resolution. If @TheGreek wants another one or two, or three or 99, I just print them off. It's the future :)

I can do a nice tapered finish so the inside of the ring is perhaps 2.2mm tapering down to 1.8mm at the outside. Thats another two mins of design.

Rob

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20 minutes ago, Dad3353 said:

 

Something like this..?

 

1t6uFg9.png

 

A bit more detail would be best. Radius of curved corners..? Diameter of screw holes..? Colour required, and how many..? Urgent or not so much..? :rWNVV2D:

 

Douglas

Ill send you the .stl i used for mine. Its got all those measurements, particulsrly thr screw holes.

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8 hours ago, tauzero said:

Being someone who would like to use his 3D printer to the full (or at least more than I do), can anyone recommend beginner-friendly software and tutorials?

I did it all at the public library. I provided them a file which i was able to source, but i dont know what software they used.

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10 hours ago, tauzero said:

Being someone who would like to use his 3D printer to the full (or at least more than I do), can anyone recommend beginner-friendly software and tutorials?

There are a number of programs that you need to master to be able to do 3d printing. As with all software, some programs are easy and some are really complicated. Simple 3d printing, e.g. simple blocks and curves can be done using quite simple software, more complicated stuff requires a good design program, a decent 3d slicer and the ability to think in 3d dimensions. However none of the programs are impossible to master and to learn how to use them, though all require a certain amount of time to be put in. Tye more time you put in, the more you get out. I have put more time into 3d printing than to playing the bass, so I'm less bad at 3d printing than playing (it's all relative).

 

I use Fusion 360 as my main design program. I think I have tried every free version and every demo for 3d design software. However my tests might vary from a few hours to a few days. I do not claim to be an expert in any of them, just more familar with one or two.Depending on what you want to do, you may get away with simpler programs but a decent 3d design program takes time to learn. I gave up on F360 a few times as it's sometimes very odd to use. However the more time I put in, the better I got. The advantage of F360 is a it's a full-on professional 3d design system and is specifically targeted at that audience. The disadvantage of F360 is a it's a full-on professional 3d design system and is specifically targeted at that audience. It's big, it can do anything but you have to learn to use it. You will not learn it in a weekend or even a month unless you are very good. t took my 3-4 months before I became familar enough not to tear my hair out in fristration. Thats not full time, thats a few hours a week. I strongly suspect that any other design program at F360 level will be just as complicated.  Once you have F360 working and there are a lot of videos and the community help is very good, you design your stuff, and here's the pickup surrounds I did for @TheGreek

 

image.png.809e341824ea23662525211137533fdc.png

You do a simple extrustion to get some depth to it and you get this

 

image.png.4773f635a2b2e91f58f697addc83a4e3.png

 

You export this STL file to a 3d slicer for conversion from STL into a fileformat that a 3d printer uses. All a 3d printer does, is play battleships in 3 dimensions extruding out thin lines of plastic filament. You can control just about every single apsect of everything when printing, from the speed, the width of the lines, the temperature, the bed temperature to parameters that I have no idea what they do.

 

I use PrusaSlicer as I have two Prusa MK3S+ printers which are probably considered high end prosumer devices. I used to have a Creality Ender 3 pro which is entry level and is very good. The Prusa's are a lot better but 4-5x the price each. Anybody starting should get a cheap printer and learn, you can pick them up for less than £200 now.

 

PrusaSlicer converts the file you have loaded into gcode files that the printer understands. It also sends the output file to either an SD card that you manually insert into the printer or to something like Octoprint which is a network print server for 3d printers.

 

image.png.07ff923d015f3049d129a43b51c97338.png

 

The 3d printer will then work its way from the bottom of the object upwards and lay down a thin layer (e.g. 0.2mm) of filament as told. When doing the design you ned to think about overhangs and where support is needed, so sometimes you print the object in an unusual orientation to avoid an overhang. This is easier to demonstrate than to explain and once you've seen it, you understand :)

 

The rings above took a few hours as I did them at a higher quality, but you can change to work in draft mode or just about anything else.

 

As with all things, the best way to learn is to do it, to print simple things and move to complex things, here's a tube ring that is fully parameterised for mounting computers on telescopes. This version is approximately 200 versions along. Its taken 18 months to get to this. There's a lot of things in here to make it just right,

 

image.png.0ec7ac9e9f2700c2ffb63efe19c8fd48.png

 

Hope this helps as a primer to 3d printing.


Rob

 

 

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