New BassChat 8"Cab design

[chyc]

This looks fab. Thanks for the design. I want to make this.

 

One aspect of building these that I struggle with is cutting for the port. I spend ages on cutting a round hole, only to find it's not a great fit etc. How would I go about swapping out the drain pipe for something a little (IMO) nice looking and easier to work with such as this Tuff Cab Port Tube? I presume it's a trip to WinISD, but if someone has the dimensions to hand to see if it's a goer, I would be eternally grateful 🙂.

[tauzero]

You can get hole saws the right diameter, eg https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355897211872. Easy to use, just make sure that you've got the wood suspended otherwise you'll put a hole in your workbench. Gives a snug fit, just put some epoxy glue round it to secure it.

[Phil Starr]

8 hours ago, chyc said:

This looks fab. Thanks for the design. I want to make this.

 

One aspect of building these that I struggle with is cutting for the port. I spend ages on cutting a round hole, only to find it's not a great fit etc. How would I go about swapping out the drain pipe for something a little (IMO) nice looking and easier to work with such as this Tuff Cab Port Tube? I presume it's a trip to WinISD, but if someone has the dimensions to hand to see if it's a goer, I would be eternally grateful 🙂.

As a serial builder you'll know the joy of self building is that you can adapt the design. I stick with drainpipe because it is going to remain available for a very long time and because as @tauzero says you can buy a cheap holesaw to cut the port. Cutting small holes is much trickier than cutting the larger radius holes if you are using a router or a jigsaw so the holesaw with just a drill is the 'easy build' solution.

 

A bigger port would be nice with this cab but a 10cm port just won't fit, I did consider a slot port but it increases the complexity of the woodwork. As it happens a 75mm port is in the Goldilocks region for this cab and I'd already calculated for it 12.5cm is the length that port is just too short but changing the tuning by using it as it is wouldn't change the response by much. I wouln't be concerned if you used the port as it is and you could add the extra length by finding something to slide over the end of the tube if you care to improvise. I've a small stock of cardboard packing tubes I keep for this but I've seen people use tin cans and all sorts. I've also moulded whole ports out of papier-mache.

[chyc]

Thanks for that, both @tauzero and @Phil Starr. I probably should say some things for the defence of the lazy while I'm here:

 

1. I do have a hole saw. It cuts very nice and precise holes. Unfortunately it's horrible to work with  with a hand drill and, more importantly, drainpipes are not made to a precision that makes for a nice fit anyway. I was sanding down my hole to make it fit (pipe down Kenneth Williams).
2. Unless you're building more than a couple of boxes, or unless you have spare drainpipe, buying a dedicated port tube will be cheaper.

Edited July 29 by chyc

[Chienmortbb]

8 hours ago, tauzero said:

You can get hole saws the right diameter, eg https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355897211872. Easy to use, just make sure that you've got the wood suspended otherwise you'll put a hole in your workbench. Gives a snug fit, just put some epoxy glue round it to secure it.

Just a small tip, it the hole is a tad tight when fitting the port, put the port in the freezer overnight. The temperature coefficient of the PVC mean the port will shrink but gradually expand into the hole as it warms.

[Chienmortbb]

1 hour ago, chyc said:

more importantly, drainpipes are not made to a precision that makes for a nice fit anyway.

Try not to drill the hole too large and if it is hard to get the port in, freeze the port overnight.

[3below]

4 hours ago, Chienmortbb said:

Try not to drill the hole too large and if it is hard to get the port in, freeze the port overnight.

^ This, plus cut small and open the hole out with small incremental adjustments (rasp,  half round file).  If you do go way too big, epoxy plus sawdust makes a useful filler.  My weapon of choice is a router plus adjustable bar. Perfect holes every time (my fingers were crossed as I wrote that). 🫰

[JohnDaBass]

5 hours ago, 3below said:

. Perfect holes every time (my fingers were crossed as I wrote that). 🫰

Great to hear that you've still got all your fingers to cross 🤣

[Phil Starr]

Possibly because I build more prototypes than finished cabs I deliberately cut my holes slightly loose and use a gasket to seal them (gaffer tape usually) Once I have a finished size I seal it with whatever sealant is in my mastic gun. So far nothing has ever moved but a tight fit would be better. I'm saying this because I want people to know that there is always a solution and it makes it easier to start a build knowing any minor errors are soon sorted

 

[bremen]

I got one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364786830824?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=k2lumud2szy&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=hNc7PDPYRJi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

and made a bar to rotate the tool round a bolt in the centre. It's easier to manipulate than a grown-up router.

[Pea Turgh]

I cut my port hole with a jigsaw, very very slowly.  The port is friction fit.  I was surprised, but seems it is possible.

[stevie]

1 hour ago, bremen said:

I got one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364786830824?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=k2lumud2szy&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=hNc7PDPYRJi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

and made a bar to rotate the tool round a bolt in the centre. It's easier to manipulate than a grown-up router.

 

I bought one of those as a backup because the price was just ridiculous. It works fine, except that you can't use it for rebates because the depth setting doesn't lock properly. It's fine for trimming and cutting holes. And, as you say, it's much easier to use that a full-size router.

[FirstBass]

Still using mine on a regular basis

 

Great little monitoring / practice cab. 

[nekomatic]

Cool to see the plans ready, thanks to Phil, Bert and Sam for making it happen. 
 

I plan to build one as soon as I’ve got a couple of other projects off the books (so don’t hold your breath). 
 

I vaguely remember a video in which Phil demonstrated how to assemble a speaker cabinet without having to use a million sash clamps. I assume this cab can be built the same way? Can anyone take pity on my search incompetence and remind me where to find it?

[tauzero]

Possibly this:

 

 

[Chienmortbb]

1 hour ago, nekomatic said:

Cool to see the plans ready, thanks to Phil, Bert and Sam for making it happen. 
 

I plan to build one as soon as I’ve got a couple of other projects off the books (so don’t hold your breath). 
 

I vaguely remember a video in which Phil demonstrated how to assemble a speaker cabinet without having to use a million sash clamps. I assume this cab can be built the same way? Can anyone take pity on my search incompetence and remind me where to find it?

It is designed that way. If you look at the drawings, there are battens listed. 

[nekomatic]

11 hours ago, tauzero said:

Possibly this:

That’s the bunny - thank you!

 

10 hours ago, Chienmortbb said:

It is designed that way. If you look at the drawings, there are battens listed. 

 

I should clarify that my search incompetence is rivalled by my woodworking incompetence*, so knowing that there are battens doesn’t equal fully understanding how to most easily assemble the thing. 
 

* exaggeration for comic effect, but only a bit

[tauzero]

3 hours ago, nekomatic said:

I should clarify that my search incompetence is rivalled by my woodworking incompetence*, so knowing that there are battens doesn’t equal fully understanding how to most easily assemble the thing. 
 

* exaggeration for comic effect, but only a bit

 

Phil's video does give thorough guidance on the assembly.