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Sheared neck screws: What to do?


Fionn
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Looking for some advice here.

 

I was recently given a rather nice old bass that I would like to fix up.
 

Problem is, the heads have sheared from two of the neck screws … sheared at a point within the body of the bass, so I can’t twist them out with pliers unfortunately.

 

Any suggestions how I can remove these?

 

Cheers 🙃

 

 

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6 minutes ago, Waddo Soqable said:

All I can suggest is remove the 2 screws that do have heads remaining, then try and get the neck off with the headless screws being pulled thru the body.  Once the neck's off you can unscrew the headless screws with pliers.... ? 

Great Idea... the duff two may be tight on the body, but won't really be threaded... should be able to 'work' neck and body apart...

 

Followed by Reg's Dremmel slot to whats left to remove if ya cant get a good plier grip.

Edited by PaulThePlug
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1 hour ago, PaulThePlug said:

Cylinder Head, Barrel Thru Bolts on a Honda Super Dream Anyone?..

 

Yes.  400 Super Dream.

 

No studs were damaged but I did a nifty head and barrels off job with the engine still in the frame.  Welded some pieces of an extension bar together to get at the big end nuts without needing to split the engine.  All done and back together in an evening.  It's not how I'd do it these days but I was an apprentice and more willing to take risks then.

 

Oh yes...  Like you said, EZ outs (screw/bolt extractors) may be the answer but you have to be very steady with the tiny drill bit to get the pilot hole in the centre.  The smallest extractor is usually good for screw shanks of 3 to 5mm diameter.  You will need a tap wrench to use one.

Edited by SpondonBassed
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Along with my original suggestion, if the shanks of the screws are a bit snug in the body holes and the screw heads are completely gone, I would use a parallel punch, or a suitable gauge nail (4"?) with the point ground off flat, to "drift" the screws thru tapping with a hammer. Obviously care required and I'd alternate between the 2 busted screws to even out the movement. I'd think that'd get it moving, and when you've got a gap between neck and pocket you could use gentle leverage with something suitable. 

I'd obviously remove everything else from the body, scratchplate, electrics etc, first so you've got nothing to get damaged. 

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20 hours ago, Fionn said:

I was recently given a rather nice old bass that I would like to fix up.
 

Problem is, the heads have sheared from two of the neck screws … sheared at a point within the body of the bass, so I can’t twist them out with pliers unfortunately.

 

20 hours ago, Waddo Soqable said:

All I can suggest is remove the 2 screws that do have heads remaining, then try and get the neck off with the headless screws being pulled thru the body.  Once the neck's off you can unscrew the headless screws with pliers.... ? 

 

If @Waddo Soqable's assumption is correct, then very much exactly what he says ^^^^^ 

 

Once you've got the neck off, if you have any doubts then post a photo on here and we can advise as necessary :)

 

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On 19/07/2023 at 21:22, SpondonBassed said:

 

 

Oh yes...  Like you said, EZ outs (screw/bolt extractors) may be the answer but you have to be very steady with the tiny drill bit to get the pilot hole in the centre.  The smallest extractor is usually good for screw shanks of 3 to 5mm diameter.  You will need a tap wrench to use one.

I hate these things with a passion, and would advise against using them unless as a last resort. The chances that they will break are very high, and then you have a serious problem on your hands because you have a hardened carbon steel extractor in the centre of the bolt, which no drill can touch. When it happened to me I was lucky enough to find a local engineering works with a spark erosion machine (think this was a VW bus cylinder head exhaust stud, but it was a long time ago).

 

Once the neck is off, if there is enough of the broken screw sticking out a Stud Extractor might do the job - something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Remover-Extractor-Puller-Mechanic-Vehicle/dp/B07B3S1CJN/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=60146397584&hvadid=259084582987&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9180720&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=16234816946913686502&hvtargid=kwd-298754072628&hydadcr=28149_1724799&keywords=stud+extractor&qid=1689932951&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

 

 

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If you're feeling brave, you could use the well know Paul Simenon technique (little known fact is that the photo in question does not capture a moment of existential rage, merely an attempt to loosen a stripped neck screw).....

 

image.png.31164c5d19cd826df5c163f315c981ea.png

 

If not, drill them out 👍

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3 hours ago, Reggaebass said:

My first bike was a Yamaha RD250, my friend had a Kawasaki KH250 and I seem to remember the superdream looking quite slick in the day 

 

Looking, yes. The 250 superdream was a 400 superdream with smaller barrels. So it had the weight of the 400 with the power of the 250. It was wallowy and horrible.

That is compared the the Z250, GSX250, GS250 (which in itself was a bit wierd) of the time, and the RD250/KH250 which were older. Before the world went crazy with the RD250LC and RG250.

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Not yet.

 

I won’t be home until the weekend, so I’ll try then.

 

First thing I’ll try is to tap them out with a punch, and try to work it loose, as suggested above.

 

Failing that I’ll get the drill out.

 

I’ll report back with results when it’s (hopefully) done.

 

Thanks so much for your suggestions everyone, very much appreciated 🙏🏻

Edited by Fionn
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5 hours ago, Woodinblack said:

 

 

400 yes, 250 hell no!

My dad rode a 250. I had a mate who was only on his provisional licence and bought a 250, but later found out that someone had put a 400 engine in it and he was riding around illegally. 😆

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2 hours ago, Crusoe said:

My dad rode a 250. I had a mate who was only on his provisional licence and bought a 250, but later found out that someone had put a 400 engine in it and he was riding around illegally. 😆

 

Was it still running a single front brake disk?

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13 minutes ago, Woodinblack said:

 

That was the stupid thing - the 400 had dual brakes, the 250 had a single disk, but both bikes had a near identical weight!

 

Yes but the claimed top speed of the 400 was about 20mph higher.  103 vs 83mph.  In fairness it was big and heavy even for a 400.

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8 hours ago, Woodinblack said:

400 yes, 250 hell no!

I spent a year dispatch riding on a 250 and yes, it was slow, but still fast enough compared to London traffic. It was also cheap to run, comfortable to ride all all day and completely reliable with minimal maintenance, so I have fond memories of it.

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