tauzero Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 Some more detail here: https://3dprintingspace.com/t/cr-6-se-usb-problems/82/2 Probably applies only to the CR-6 SE which I presume is now obsolete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwillett Posted June 10 Author Share Posted June 10 After a fair few hours with the Prusa Mk4, I can confidently say that the firmware integration with Octoprint is a f***ing joke. There are so many gotcha's about how Prusa have made it difficult to integrate that it is utterly pointless even trying to make it work if you want to do pauses or change filament. Just to be clear this is 100% the fault of Prusa who are being utter d1ckh3ads about integration. Prusa are claiming that they are working on the integration but being a cynical git, my money is that they are trying to push the childlike PrusaLink into the Octoprint area and will try and moneterise it. At the momnent PrusaLink is a broken childs toy and Octoprint is a professional system that works exceptionally well. PrusaLink looks neat but has almost no functionality and is so slow on uploads. I've abandoned Octoprint for a the moment on the MK4, it's still on the MK3, and am seeing if PrusaLink can even do simple stuff. There are also lots of issues with the MK4 filament sensor. It does not play well (or at all) with Octoprint and is a very big step back from the MK3 filament sensor which just worked. Somebody at Prusa cocked up big time with the new Hall Effect sensor which half the time just doesn't work. I've an open ticket with Prusa over this and if the MK4 keeps playing up, its going back. I suspect my lawyers, "Sue, Grabbit and Run" may get involved at some time. Rob 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwillett Posted June 17 Author Share Posted June 17 After a lot of thinking, I have decided to keep the MK4. The issues I had/have are: 1. Display integration with Octoprint is a joke, but by putting a cheap TFT display and case on the Raspberry Pi, that replaces the MK4 display screen. I just don't look at the MK4 display now. Simple and cheap fix. Need to tidy desk as well 2. Using the TFT means I don't use PrusaLink which is not fit for purpose. 3. I still have problems with the filament sensor not detecting that I have removed the filament when it runs out. What actually happens is that the filament sensor is at the top of the extruder, it detects that the filament has finished, but there is still circa 10cm of filament past the sensor on the way to the hot end. This seems to work very well and I haven't had more than one problem. Once the sensor has detected no more filament, it moves the head to the bottom right corner and will retract the remaining filament, about 10cm, back out of the top of the extruder. This works fine. I then have to put new filament in, the sensor keeps saying that there is still filament in the extruder when its ejected it, I have to put in and pull out a strand of filament 5x to 50x before its acknowledges there is no filament actually there. It thinks there is but there isn't. Tried blowed compressed air and made sod all difference. It does work but it's annoying constantly pushing in the filament and taking it out. 4. The other issue, the BIG one, is that Prisa have not implemented the Gcode command to inform Octoprint that the filament is out. I have an Octoprint plugin that detects this command then emails me so I can having dinner downstairs and get a simple message to change filament. No need to keep my eyes glued to the printer. This is unacceptable from Prusa as it's just a firmware update. I'll be writing words to Josef Prusa on this. The upside to the Mk4 is the speed and quality. Its 2.6x faster than my MK3 due to the Input Shaping. I used the six pieces of my V3 headless as samples and used PrusaSlicer to work out how long each piece would take on a MK3S+, a MK4 (without Input Shaping) and a Mk4 with Input Shaping. So TR, Top Right, would take 794 mins, 766 mins and 295 mins below. The speed of the Mk4 without Input Shaping is pretty much the same as the MK3S+, its about 5-6% faster, which is not worth an upgrade. When you turn on Input Shaping, the difference is dramatic, it's all software (apart from a tiny accelerometer) and suddenly the MK4 is 2.6x faster, so an 88hr print (yep thats how long some things take, and I have done things that take even longer) now takes 33.5 hours. The quality is still excellent as well. A 50 hour timesaving is fantastic. I now time the long ones overnight and can do 2-3 pieces during a (long) day. When it took 88 hours, everything had to be perfect and I had to be around to change the parts, no longer. The other thing that I now know, thanks @SamIAm, is that I have a chance to upgrade my MK3S+ to use Input Shaping and possibly get the same speed up. Still investigating that one, but if so, it's a no brainer. Quality is also high, I am now printing at 0.1mm because it's so fast. Rob 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwillett Posted June 17 Author Share Posted June 17 Also been testing out how strong PLA glues are. I have loads and loads and loads of test pieces so I thought I'd see how strong my preferred glue of choice, FloPlast is. Glued two flat bits together at right angles and put a lot of effort in to breaking the joint. The joint held and the plastic broke. Thats good, so I feel comfortable with using FloPlast as a glue. Just for information. Rob 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamIAm Posted June 17 Share Posted June 17 4 minutes ago, rwillett said: The other thing that I now know, thanks @SamIAm, is that I have a chance to upgrade my MK3S+ to use Input Shaping and possibly get the same speed up. Still investigating that one, but if so, it's a no brainer. According to Prusa and also https://www.youtube.com/@ChrisRiley the Mk3.5 upgrade allows doubling print speed + some quality improvements. It seems this is due to the new mainboard being faster and using the new firmware with the Prusa IS (The main components like frame, rods, motors of the Mk3S+ are not swapped out) but it comes in at £326 (I've got the older soldered heatbed so need a replacement); A new Pi5 with nice touch screen + accelerometer + bits comes in much less ... and whilst it won't support the new generation of Prusa firmware, it will still provide the nice Octoprint integration. Sam x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwillett Posted June 17 Author Share Posted June 17 36 minutes ago, SamIAm said: According to Prusa and also https://www.youtube.com/@ChrisRiley the Mk3.5 upgrade allows doubling print speed + some quality improvements. It seems this is due to the new mainboard being faster and using the new firmware with the Prusa IS (The main components like frame, rods, motors of the Mk3S+ are not swapped out) but it comes in at £326 (I've got the older soldered heatbed so need a replacement); A new Pi5 with nice touch screen + accelerometer + bits comes in much less ... and whilst it won't support the new generation of Prusa firmware, it will still provide the nice Octoprint integration. Sam x I think for the cost of an accelerometer (£9 or so and a decent touch screen £40+) I can test all of this out and see how it works. I can actually do it for £250 but happy to try Klipper out and revert if needed. Rib 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted June 17 Share Posted June 17 I keep fancying dipping my toe in the 3d printing thing. What do people think is a realistic minimum spend entry point to get something worth having, won’t drive me crazy, doesn’t require 7 years and a PhD in computing to use, could print small items? For info I am a middle age bloke who uses a lot of computer applications of varying quality/ complexity in his job but the last time I did any programming was pre-millennium and that wasn’t a massive amount. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwillett Posted June 17 Author Share Posted June 17 1 hour ago, T-Bay said: I keep fancying dipping my toe in the 3d printing thing. What do people think is a realistic minimum spend entry point to get something worth having, won’t drive me crazy, doesn’t require 7 years and a PhD in computing to use, could print small items? For info I am a middle age bloke who uses a lot of computer applications of varying quality/ complexity in his job but the last time I did any programming was pre-millennium and that wasn’t a massive amount. I'd buy an Ender 3 Pro or similar. get the latest version as it's cheap and does a good job for the price. They are between £200 and £300 depending on the version and the functionality. Get a magentic mat so you aren't messing around with glass beds for your first printer. Some people will argue that it teaches you about the basics of printing, so does winding your own bass strings, make it easy for yourself. If you can afford a printer with automatic bed levelling, thats the one to go for. Do not be fooled by adverts of bikini clad men and women (I'm not sexist) oozing about these incredible prints. They might not be telling the truth. Also do not be seduced by no name brands. Get a few rolls of the same brand of filament, preferably PLA or PLA+. Ignore PETG, ABS, TPU, CF and anything else. Some of these are difficult to print, some of these are very difficult to print and some of these are toxic to print with. get the same brand so you can learn what temperatures work. 3d printing is very temperature sensitive. My printign values in my house on my Prusa are going to be different to yours on a different printer and bed. Get the same brand as you have a fighting chance of doing the same print twice. Ask questions, ask lots of questions in this thread. I think this is the main thread for this sort of thing on Basschat unless I'm told otherwise. When you think you have asked far too many questions, keep asking. You can make a lot of simple mistakes doing all this, I know as I made most of all of them. I may have even invented some new mistakes all on my own. I'm good like that. Start small and learn. Learn how to bed level, learn about temperatures for PLA and PLA+, learn the workglow of going from a model to something printed. You will need a printer, a slice (new term, this takes a model and slices it into layers for your printer to print. Your printer is pretty dumb, until recently your microwave could probably outthink it. You dumb phone certainly could and your smartphone is at Einstein level. The slice takes a complex 3d model and converts this into information that your coffee machine can understand. (and thats more intelligent than your printer). Your slicer has to communicate with your printer so use an SD card that you know works. If you are lucky your new printer may have an Ethernet port or WiFi port. This makes life a little easier. Once you have a sliced model, you load it into your printer, tell it to print (you have read the instruction manual that appears to be written in something that looks and resembles English but isn't quite). Get another good book, something big and heavy and wait. And wait, and wait and wait. 3d printing is not for the impatient. Models take a long time to print, big models take the cube of a small model to print. 8-10 hours, a mere blink of an eye, 20-30 hours, thats not bad, 50-70 hours. Thats serious printing. Start small and stay small is my advice. Only go big when you need to. Ask questions, did I say that before? Ask and ask and ask and watch videos. 90% of the videos on 3d printing are self congratulatory middle aged bearded bankers (spelling mistake) showing you their latest Ironman mask. These are often recorded in a dark basement where they still live with their parents. These are badly filmed, unedited, an awful lot of bad facial hair, bad dress sense with bad 2000's black t-shirts advertising bands no one has ever heard of in Seattle, Wisconsin or Immingham. These are a waste of your life, 20 mins of watching somebody attempt to speak a cohrent sentence with 7 consecutive umms or ahh's, severe camera shake, that could be condensed to 45 seconds is 20 mins you will never get back. Choose your videos carefully, if they have less than 500 followers, go elsewhere. Learn to use a design package. There are loads of free ones. Good ones take time to learn. I am still learning Fusion 360 after nearly four years. In my defence this is not my primary job. Ask questions and put the time in. You do not need to be a programmer or devops to learn Fusion460 or OnShape or FreeCad or SCAD or whatever, you need to learn to think the way they think and sometimes thats hard. Keep trying, it will take time but you'll get there. Ask questions (I might have mentioned that) and keep trying things out. never stop learning, I haven't. Thanks Rob 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamIAm Posted June 17 Share Posted June 17 (edited) Great points Rob. I'd probably lean more towards an Anycubic (When I was still musing about restoring my Prusa, I was very close to buying a Kobra 2 Pro ... they had good reviews and are fast), the Enders have a great community but have always struck me more as a tinkerer's machine. I started out using Freecad but when I started designing more complex (not crazy complex mind you) things I ran into massive reliability issues, models would just stop working. I've been playing with the free version of Fusion 360 for a couple of years now and find it is spot on, very powerful, loads of videos on how to do stuff with it and it has yet to bomb out on me. Youtube videos, despite loads of facial hair, I have found good value from https://www.youtube.com/@MadeWithLayers https://www.youtube.com/@3DPrintingNerd https://www.youtube.com/@ChrisRiley content strikes me as sound and I enjoy their presenting styles but of course ymmv. Sam x Edited June 18 by SamIAm 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted June 18 Share Posted June 18 11 hours ago, rwillett said: I'd buy an Ender 3 Pro or similar. get the latest version as it's cheap and does a good job for the price. They are between £200 and £300 depending on the version and the functionality. Get a magentic mat so you aren't messing around with glass beds for your first printer. Some people will argue that it teaches you about the basics of printing, so does winding your own bass strings, make it easy for yourself. If you can afford a printer with automatic bed levelling, thats the one to go for. Do not be fooled by adverts of bikini clad men and women (I'm not sexist) oozing about these incredible prints. They might not be telling the truth. Also do not be seduced by no name brands. Get a few rolls of the same brand of filament, preferably PLA or PLA+. Ignore PETG, ABS, TPU, CF and anything else. Some of these are difficult to print, some of these are very difficult to print and some of these are toxic to print with. get the same brand so you can learn what temperatures work. 3d printing is very temperature sensitive. My printign values in my house on my Prusa are going to be different to yours on a different printer and bed. Get the same brand as you have a fighting chance of doing the same print twice. Ask questions, ask lots of questions in this thread. I think this is the main thread for this sort of thing on Basschat unless I'm told otherwise. When you think you have asked far too many questions, keep asking. You can make a lot of simple mistakes doing all this, I know as I made most of all of them. I may have even invented some new mistakes all on my own. I'm good like that. Start small and learn. Learn how to bed level, learn about temperatures for PLA and PLA+, learn the workglow of going from a model to something printed. You will need a printer, a slice (new term, this takes a model and slices it into layers for your printer to print. Your printer is pretty dumb, until recently your microwave could probably outthink it. You dumb phone certainly could and your smartphone is at Einstein level. The slice takes a complex 3d model and converts this into information that your coffee machine can understand. (and thats more intelligent than your printer). Your slicer has to communicate with your printer so use an SD card that you know works. If you are lucky your new printer may have an Ethernet port or WiFi port. This makes life a little easier. Once you have a sliced model, you load it into your printer, tell it to print (you have read the instruction manual that appears to be written in something that looks and resembles English but isn't quite). Get another good book, something big and heavy and wait. And wait, and wait and wait. 3d printing is not for the impatient. Models take a long time to print, big models take the cube of a small model to print. 8-10 hours, a mere blink of an eye, 20-30 hours, thats not bad, 50-70 hours. Thats serious printing. Start small and stay small is my advice. Only go big when you need to. Ask questions, did I say that before? Ask and ask and ask and watch videos. 90% of the videos on 3d printing are self congratulatory middle aged bearded bankers (spelling mistake) showing you their latest Ironman mask. These are often recorded in a dark basement where they still live with their parents. These are badly filmed, unedited, an awful lot of bad facial hair, bad dress sense with bad 2000's black t-shirts advertising bands no one has ever heard of in Seattle, Wisconsin or Immingham. These are a waste of your life, 20 mins of watching somebody attempt to speak a cohrent sentence with 7 consecutive umms or ahh's, severe camera shake, that could be condensed to 45 seconds is 20 mins you will never get back. Choose your videos carefully, if they have less than 500 followers, go elsewhere. Learn to use a design package. There are loads of free ones. Good ones take time to learn. I am still learning Fusion 360 after nearly four years. In my defence this is not my primary job. Ask questions and put the time in. You do not need to be a programmer or devops to learn Fusion460 or OnShape or FreeCad or SCAD or whatever, you need to learn to think the way they think and sometimes thats hard. Keep trying, it will take time but you'll get there. Ask questions (I might have mentioned that) and keep trying things out. never stop learning, I haven't. Thanks Rob 10 hours ago, SamIAm said: Great points Rob. I'd probably lean more towards an Anycubic (When I was still musing about restoring my Prusa, I was very close to buying a Kobra 2 Pro ... they had good reviews and are fast), the Enders have a great community but have always struck me more as a tinkerer's machine. I started out using Fusion 360 but when I started designing more complex (not crazy complex mind you) things I ran into massive reliability issues, models would just stop working. I've been playing with the free version of Fusion 360 for a couple of years now and find it is spot on, very powerful, loads of videos on how to do stuff with it and it has yet to bomb out on me. Youtube videos, despite loads of facial hair, I have found good value from https://www.youtube.com/@MadeWithLayers https://www.youtube.com/@3DPrintingNerd https://www.youtube.com/@ChrisRiley content strikes me as sound and I enjoy their presenting styles but of course ymmv. Sam x Thanks both! Plenty for me to look into. I have a fair bit of experience in the CAD side at least, but checked and my version of Catia is well out of date and prices of new versions are very high for the use I would get from it. Will check with work in case we have any already suited I could use, otherwise it will be open access stuff for now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwillett Posted June 18 Author Share Posted June 18 @T-Bay If you know CAD, that's a massive help going forward. The principles are very similar, though the interfaces and local usage changes. Some people like Fusion 360, others OnShape, There are lots of really, really free ones and most have free or cheap options. Fusion 360 offers a free option and doesn't seem to have that many limitations beyond only 10 files available for edit at a time. The key thing is to work out your workflow and stick to it. My workflow is: 1. Design in Fusion 360. 2. Export from Fusion 360 to PrusaSlicer, this is my slicing tool of choice as its very good and links directly to Octoprint. Another option for a Slicer is Cura, these are two common slicers and are as good (or bad) as most others. Slicers need careful use as slicing is more an an art as you get more complex models. Experience is key for complicated models. 3. I use OctoPrint as my main print server. This is a networked Raspberry Pi 3/4/5 that removes the need to copy files to SD Cards and plug them in to the printer. Octoprint also provides a mass of other useful features as well, but the scope of this is beyond this conversation. 4. Print and learn. basically head back to point 1 and re-define the model. The choice of printer is up to you, but feel free to ask for feedback and comments. I'd be careful about what you choose, all of Sam's points are perfectly valid to think about and consider. Costs nothing to ask Thanks Rob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamIAm Posted June 18 Share Posted June 18 From the 3D model side, I'd suggest is is very helpful to look at these two big 3D model sharing sites https://www.thingiverse.com/ and https://www.printables.com/ Sam x 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamIAm Posted June 18 Share Posted June 18 13 hours ago, SamIAm said: I started out using Fusion 360 but when I started designing more complex (not crazy complex mind you) things I ran into massive reliability issues, models would just stop working. I've been playing with the free version of Fusion 360 for a couple of years now and find it is spot on, very powerful, loads of videos on how to do stuff with it and it has yet to bomb out on me. D'oh ... this should have said I started out using Freecad ... (Edited now in my post) Slicer wise, like Rob I use Prusa slicer ... it was natural as I've a Prusa printer, but I've used it also for the various 3D printers we have at my makerspace (Anycubic & Ultimaker) and it works very nicely. Sam x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwillett Posted November 14 Author Share Posted November 14 This was a case for a Phil Jones HA-2 Headphone Amp or was supposed to be Never had one blow up like this before. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinB Posted November 14 Share Posted November 14 Now it's art 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwillett Posted November 14 Author Share Posted November 14 No idea why it went like this. Its supposed to be a case like this. It is quite thin but not that thin. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stub Mandrel Posted November 14 Share Posted November 14 I first experienced 3D printing when sent a Dremel machine (targeted at schools) to try out. It produced very good prints in pla, but eventually I had to send it back. I then made a Prusa i3 clone from a kit and with minor upgrades got outstanding results although thermistor and hot end cable breaks were a not uncommon issue. I wrote a book based on my experiences, including things like comparing the strength of different layer orientations, screw thread pullout strength, various ways of joining parts - all with a view to using 3d printing as part of a home engineering workshop. Since the Creality sent me Halot One Plus, Halot Mage Pro, resin washer/curing machine and a K1 max (ffd), for review/demonstration at a trade show. Yes I am a very lucky bunny. As a result I have become a bit of a 3d printing obsessive. I regularly make print for practical purposes or as models. I make LOTS of mistakes but work hard to learn from them. I have an article on faults in resin printing in the works... To give an idea of how much I do, I have worn out the LCD screen of the Mage Pro, I think it has had up to 2,000 hours of use but now light leakage keeps making thin films of set resin that get pulled up and tangled in models. Currently I am designing a whole load of military-related model subjects in Alibre Atom 3D with a view to selling the STL files. Lots of fun a bit frustrating as what would print in four hours on the Mage takes over ten on the One Plus. Missiles are about 75mm tall Halot Mage Pro resin printer and washer/curer. 1:35 tank hull. 1:72 jet Case for component tester Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwillett Posted November 15 Author Share Posted November 15 They are great models. The thermistor and heater block are known issues with the Prusa Mk3. I have a bag of spare ones I no longer need so if anybody needs one, just ask. I have used the wire for wirimg guitars as it looks nice The LCD plates are items that wear out, same as the photocopying equivalent. However thats about as far as my knowledge of resin printers go. I also make astrophotography parts, especially made to measure tube rings (http://www.starclamps.com). I had a friend make me a ring in resin. My FDM version is designed to bend very, very slightly to ensure a tight fit on the telescope. The FDM one snapped so I never bothered with resin printing again. However for making very intricate models, resin printing is the way to go. The new models have some insane levels of detail, 12K points or something. Perhaps one day I'll buy one and see how I can make use of it. Thanks Rob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwillett Posted December 6 Author Share Posted December 6 Today, I'm going to be talking about how you can destroy your extruder head with nothing more than a slightly greasy build plate. I did a print run a few days ago using PETG on a Prusa Mk4. PETG is slightly more difficult to print than PLA as it uses higher temperatures (240 vs 200) and it needs a satin steel sheet to print on, rather than a smooth steel plate for PLA. PETG will stick very, very well to a smooth plate, so you always use a hot (90C) textured plate to print on. Once you know that, PETG is fine to print on. Did a quick print overnight and came back to finding this lump of plastic hanging from the extruder Mmm... lovely. It was supposed to be part of a 3d guitar, but clearly went wrong as it appeared not to have stuck to the plate. It actually ended up wrapped around the bottom of the extruder and filled just about every nook and cranny and was stuck everywhere. The problem now is that the extruder surrounds are all printed in PETG so this is now one big f"£$%^&*()ing mess. Heated the nozzle up to 250C and managed to prize the above off but it was everywhere else and the heat of the nozzle wasn't enough. Tried to use a heat gun and ended up pulling most of the bottom of the extruder off as it was basically just one large lump of plastic now. You should NOT be able to see the bottom chrome bar through the extruder. The photo makes the damage look a little worse around the middle of the extruder. However you can see the nuts exposed, the linear bearings and all of this should be hidden. The next problem is that new parts are needed and can be printed. That's one great thing about Prusa is that most of the parts can be downloaded and can be thrown onto a printer. I don't believe Bambu, who make great printers BTW, can do this. Thankfully I have a second Mk4 and once I'd worked out the two parts needed, three hours of printing got me two new parts. The problem now is that you have to completely dismantle the printer head as the larger green item above is the extruder chassis that everything hangs off. <sigh>. Pretty big job. I spent a few hours yesterday gradually dismantling it and then starting the rebuild. The major issue is getting the tension on the bearings just right, which involves getting screw tension just right. I then have to put the belts on and use a tuner to get the belt tension to 82Hz. 82Hz is pretty close to E on a six string, so will try this with a cheap clip on tuner first Hope to get this done tonight, but an awful lot of effort for a print not sticking to the build plate. Rob 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted December 6 Share Posted December 6 2 hours ago, rwillett said: Send that to Chris Packham and ask him to identify the animal it came from. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwillett Posted December 6 Author Share Posted December 6 I was wondering who would be the first one to use that joke.... @SpondonBassed you have won a free colon inspection. please report to your nearest NHS hospital.... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stub Mandrel Posted December 6 Share Posted December 6 I've had some problems with failing resin prints... turns out I had some damage to the FEP and a layer of (set) transparent resin between FEP and screen was stopping enough UV getting through. Have cleaned the vat (yukky job) and waiting for the IPA to evaporate before I change the FEP. Not as grim as your problem Rob! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwillett Posted December 6 Author Share Posted December 6 Printing the parts is not a problem, though I did spend five hours printing the wrong ones first. The problem is: The wiring of the extruder head is a nightmare. Prusa leave approx 01.mm extra wire so it's awful trying to lay 12-14 cables through a narrow channel, around bends and then into a PCB. Had a 30 min go earlier and I got precisely nowhere. I then have to do X belt tension which is always a massive hassle. You're never quite sure it's 100% spot on, though I like the idea of finding the frequency of the belt (if it works). Getting the Z-distance offset for the nozzle should be automatic, lets see. I had a great printer before, now I've had a go with it, will it be a good and accurate printer again? The Prusa calibration stuff looks good, lets see if it is. I am going to look at using AI for bad print detection so these issues can be avoided in the future, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwillett Posted December 7 Author Share Posted December 7 Once I'd opened a bottle of Chablis last night, work seemed to go faster, certainly by the 3rd glass they definitely were. Things that I thought were going to be a problem, weren't. Not sure if that was down to: 1. Me being a clever so-and-so 2. Alcohol making me think I was a clever so-an-so 3. The new design of the Prusa Mk4 making me think I'm a clever so-and-so but really the Prusa Mk4 designers are the clever so-and-so's. My money is 95% #3 and 5% #2. The extruder head went together very well. The docs (which I did read in spite of me being male) were pretty good. The only issue I had was that the cables of the new hot end were thicker and so some of the cable routing is very, very, very tight. This has stopped a cover fitting properly, which is no issue apart from visual. Setting the tension of the X-Axis belt cable was done using a microphone, an iPhone and plucking the belt. I didn't try it with a plectrum which was a bit silly. I still can though. The Prusa self calibration tests went well and passed first time. Bit of a surprise to be honest. Fired the printer up, did a small test and it printed well so went back to what I was trying to do and got this Mmmm.... Spaghetti Clearly an issue, clearly not a bed adhesion issue as the two parts are still on the bed. This looks like I had set the temperature wrong on the PETG, layers simply not sticking, so I banged the temperature up to 250C from 225C (which is what the sodding temperature tower told me) and it now looks a lot better This is taken directly from the webcam I mounted on the printer. It does a timelapse video which I might put if if people are interested. They are strangely hypnotic to watch. Lesson learnt, temperature towers are not always right Rob 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad3353 Posted December 7 Share Posted December 7 (edited) 10 minutes ago, rwillett said: ... a timelapse video which I might put up if people are interested ... Edited December 7 by Dad3353 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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