Bridge version 1 vs. 2

[nilorius]

Bridge version 1 vs. 2. Which one You would prefer better. Why ?

 

[Rich]

Version 1. I far prefer string slots rather than holes. 

[ahpook]

Version 2. It's black. 'Nuff said.

[asingardenof]

Version 1 as it looks easier to use for string changes, although a black version would be better. The functionality would win over the colour though.

[Doctor J]

2. The lack of symmetry to the Hipshot rubs me up the wrong way.

[tauzero]

Neither. They're not headless bridges.

[nilorius]

10 minutes ago, tauzero said:

Neither. They're not headless bridges.

Ride the (headless) horse! 😁

[lemmywinks]

10 minutes ago, tauzero said:

Neither. They're not headless bridges.

 

While this is the correct answer if I had to choose it would be the Hipshot due to the aforementioned easier string changes.

[BigRedX]

Both have strong and weak points.

 

Bridge 1 looks as though the sides would prevent lateral movement of the saddles, and while the solts might make it easier to change strings they also make it easier for the string to pop out in the middle in the middle of an emergency re-string mid-gig. Also the asymmetry of the slots plays havoc with my OCD.

 

Bridge 2 is more straight forward and doesn't have the jarring asymmetry of the previous one. The matt black colour is very pleasing too. However apart from the high density string block (which IME makes very little overall sonic difference) it's a primitive design that has been improved upon since the early 80s.

 

 

Edited July 31, 2023 by BigRedX

[nilorius]

2 minutes ago, BigRedX said:

Both have strong and weak points.

 

Bridge 1 looks as though the sides would prevent lateral movement of the saddles, and while the solts might make it easier to change strings they also make it easier for the string to pop out in the middle in the middle of an emergency re-string mid-gig. Also the asymmetry of the slots plays havoc with my OCD.

 

Bridge 2 is more straight forward and doesn't have the jarring asymmetry of the previous one. The matt black colour is very pleasing too. However apart from the high density string block (which IME makes very little overall sonic difference) it's a primitive design that has been improved upon since the early 80s.

 

 

OK, but....what would You sujest - better ?

[tauzero]

I agree with BRX. Better than both would be a Schaller 3D. Option 2 is less unpleasant to the eye than option 1, which looks like somebody trapped in a bass bridge factory was trying to write a "HELP" message in Morse code but for some reason only managed "ET".

[Grahambythesea]

V1, although I would prefer a Babiscz.

[nilorius]

4 minutes ago, Grahambythesea said:

V1, although I would prefer a Babiscz.

Very difficult web site.....bad to the "sold" ! 😜

[LowB_FTW]

Version 3? 😃

 

Mark

[ped]

2 minutes ago, LowB_FTW said:

Version 3? 😃

 

Mark

I’ve had a few of these (they’re standard on series 3 Vigier basses). I wasn’t a fan to be honest - the main issue being that to adjust the action you needed to screw up/down the string saddle which in effect was a big grub screw with a slot in the top. That meant that if your preferred height happened to be when the slot was aligned, great - otherwise you couldn’t adjust it very finely. As a fan of super low action, the lowest setting was only just enough because the bridge itself was quite high. 

[LowB_FTW]

38 minutes ago, ped said:

I’ve had a few of these (they’re standard on series 3 Vigier basses). I wasn’t a fan to be honest - the main issue being that to adjust the action you needed to screw up/down the string saddle which in effect was a big grub screw with a slot in the top. That meant that if your preferred height happened to be when the slot was aligned, great - otherwise you couldn’t adjust it very finely. As a fan of super low action, the lowest setting was only just enough because the bridge itself was quite high. 

My plan is to see if I can somehow countersink the baseplate to offset the extra height it adds to the string height.

I'm not quite yet at this stage of the build, so I've yet to discover how feasible this plan is.

 

Mark

[Lfalex v1.1]

On 31/07/2023 at 20:40, LowB_FTW said:

My plan is to see if I can somehow countersink the baseplate to offset the extra height it adds to the string height.

I'm not quite yet at this stage of the build, so I've yet to discover how feasible this plan is.

 

Mark

 

Beware that the intonation grub screws sit very low on the back edge of the bridge units. If you recess the base plate too low, you might not be able to reach them easily. 

(I have one on the aforementioned Vigier S3)

A lower action could be achieved by having new saddles  made with a) deeper slots OR b) slots cut at 90° to each other. 

A ball-ache? Yes, but it's a good solid bridge.  If you had new saddles made,  it would also be possible to experiment with different materials; brass, aluminium, titanium etc.

[itu]

1 hour ago, Lfalex v1.1 said:

If you had new saddles made,  it would also be possible to experiment with different materials; brass, aluminium, titanium etc.

Ti is very soft, Al would benefit from anodizing (more slippery, slightly harder surface). Brass and steel would be my favourites: pretty easy to machine, hard enough to withstand strings, decent price, some colours are possible...

 

How about this one?

https://hipshotproducts.com/products/5-string-a-style-bass-bridge

[LowB_FTW]

22 hours ago, Lfalex v1.1 said:

 

Beware that the intonation grub screws sit very low on the back edge of the bridge units. If you recess the base plate too low, you might not be able to reach them easily. 

(I have one on the aforementioned Vigier S3)

A lower action could be achieved by having new saddles  made with a) deeper slots OR b) slots cut at 90° to each other. 

A ball-ache? Yes, but it's a good solid bridge.  If you had new saddles made,  it would also be possible to experiment with different materials; brass, aluminium, titanium etc.

It's a valid concern, but it'll just be the baseplate that gets the countersink treatment. Just making it flush with the body of the bass.

And if it does cause issues I'll just round the rear edge of the cutout, or perhaps create a shallow ramp but hopefully it'll all be good.

 

Mark

[fretmeister]

1.

 

Slot loads every time.

[Sandypjb]

V1 for me 

[Hellzero]

On 04/08/2023 at 23:09, itu said:

How about this one?

https://hipshotproducts.com/products/5-string-a-style-bass-bridge

To me the best one available in brass or aluminium.

 

With a photo, it speaks for itself:

 

[Baloney Balderdash]

On 31/07/2023 at 20:52, LowB_FTW said:

Version 3? 😃

 

Mark

This looks like a design nightmare with little actual practical use.

 

Yes, I do realize that it is a somewhat high end bridge, but a nightmare to adjust for sure.

 

I vote for #2.

 

Personally if I needed a new bridge though I would go for mono rail bridge pieces.

 

Edited August 6, 2023 by Baloney Balderdash

[Lfalex v1.1]

^^

 

I think Kahler were going for an extreme amount of spacing adjustment. 

Why? I have no idea. 

They're a pain to adjust, alright, but they do stay put once done. 

I can't say how much they contribute to the tone/ playability,  as the Vigier has always had the Kahler.

The break angle over the bridge is nice and shallow,  and the strings just slot in.

The weird vertical barrels do have a couple of odd advantages;

 

No tools are needed to adjust the height. 

 

They can be angled inwards to give a very clean line to the nut slots- whether this gives any tangible benefit is open to question. 

 

[itu]

38 minutes ago, Lfalex v1.1 said:

...as the Vigier has always had the Kahler.

Series I and II Passions have Schaller bridges (and tuners), and Arpege Vigier's own design bridge. Kahler bridge and the optional vibrato came later.