New Bass Day #2 - Washburn XB925

[bass_dinger]

The neck is due to arrive today, via USPS, HM Customs, and Parcel Force. 

 

So, it seems a good time to consider the finish on the body. I explored the possibility of using the blue of the 8 string Washburn bass shown earlier in this thread, and asked the original luthier what the colour and finish was.

 

 "Feibing’s leather dye cobalt blue. Can get it on eBay"  It turns out that it is actually the Navy blue (there isn't a cobalt blue).

 

Next I was asked "Are you going to be staining the bare wood, or spraying the color on after sealer coats?  We floated the color on between clear coats at Washburn. But you can stain directly to the wood before clear coats as well.  Staining the bare wood will bring out more of the curly figure."

 

I said that I liked the idea of staining the wood - but that I would be asking an expert to do it for me!

 

For staining the bare wood, the recommendation is that I should instead go for the Feibing’s light blue. "What I would do is get the navy and light blue.
Stain with the navy, then back-sand it with 320 grit, then stain again with the light blue.  Will really pop the curl." And he shared an example. 

 

 

"That is a combination of staining and floating color between clear coats. The bursted edges were separated."

 

It is also beyond what I can do!

 

I am thinking that this is way too ostentatious, and too flashy.

 

However, the alternative (a wipe of Danish oil) seems to waste the opportunity afforded by the wood.

Edited July 11 by bass_dinger

[Richard R]

That is a fabulous finish!

Go on - go for it!

[bass_dinger]

So, time for an update. 

 

I was expecting the new neck to click into the old body like a lego brick, but there is a gap.

 

The luthier tells me that he left a gap to accommodate the finish.  However, the original neck did not need a finish to bridge the gap.

 

Perhaps he is right - maybe the finish will bridge the gap.  Maybe I am right - I wanted a wood to wood joint.

 

Whatever, I was so disappointed that I put the bits under the bed, and left it....

 

Here's some photos - bank card included to show the tight but extant gap.

 

Very pretty, but not what I expected...

 

[bass_dinger]

On reflection, I like it enough to throw more money at it.  

 

So, I press on. Next step?

 

1. Find someone who can apply the finish

2. Contact the company who may have made the bridge, and ask if they have replacement parts. The company is based in Germany so I shall be asking my German wife to send an email in the appropriate language 

3. Decide on the strings.  I have a set of SIT strings on my other bass - pressure wound - that I like.

4. Find someone to rebuild the parts into a usable bass

5. Get a Hiscox Lite Flite case for it

6. Get a strap for it.

[ezbass]

1 hour ago, bass_dinger said:

 

 

If that had been the neck pocket gap on my old ‘63 P, I would have described it as airtight by comparison. Really, the gap was HUGE! Still sounded fantastic and never moved. I understand the reasoning and general consensus behind a tight neck pocket and I used to think the same way too, now I’m a bit more laissez faire about it.

[Richard R]

I think that is going to be quite something,  the fretboard is very pretty. 

I would trust the luthier about the gap, maybe check with him if he expects the finish to go into the sides of the pocket as it's not clear on the photo of the blue bass.

[LeftyJ]

Looks stunning, and I think the luthier did a steller job getting the dimensions of the heel that tight without having the body at hand to work with! I get that he was an original luthier for Washburn at the time and knows these basses like the back of his hand, but I still think that's incredible without having your actual body to work from. I'm with @Richard R, I would trust the luthier 

[bass_dinger]

The world's longest New Bass Day continues  - had I known, I would have posted this in Build Diaries!

 

A few people have confirmed that the neck-to-body gap is negligible, and acceptable. 

 

I am currently researching options for the finish, which will be paid for by the sale of another bass guitar, or two.  I am drawn to local luthiers, simply because the idea of posting a bass guitar in a case makes me nervous. 

 

I had an interesting comment from one luthier, about the saddle.   The solid lump of metal may not be to replace a lost adjustable saddle.  It may be designed as a high-mass, high-surface-area saddle designed to maximise tone transferral. 

 

In other news, I need strings. My other bass has a 5 string set of SIT Silencer half round strings, 40 to 120.  Where can I buy them in the UK?

 

Or should I try another brand of half-rounds?

 

Finally, I am missing the Washburn logo, which needs to be 2 ½" long.  I may not bother, if it proves too difficult or time-consuming to source. 

 

I am feeling that the end is in sight, and I will soon be playing a fretless bass.

[Grahambythesea]

With regard to the Logo, some years I had a Washburn guitar which had a broken headstock repaired and lost its Logo. I contacted Washburn and they kindly sent me one. Worth a try?

[Grahambythesea]

On eBay Washburn logo

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125968877837?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=yumhzhf9qim&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=_-qNzvFMRiS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[bass_dinger]

Well, that was unexpected. 

 

At 2.30 I dropped off three basses at the luthier - this thread's XB925, to ask them to price up the work; another XB925 with a stripped strap button screw, which needed a dowel in the screw hole; and a friend's Fender with the strings flat on the fretboard. 

 

The Fender needed a truss rod adjustment (5 minutes, 5 quid), done on the spot.

 

I took that bass back home, went to the osteopath, visited my dad, and at 5.30 called to ask when I could pick up the bass that needed the dowel. 

"It’s already done. £10"

 

And the other bass? 

 

"We priced up the  respray, inserted 4 ferrules into the neck, reinstalled the bridge, cut the nut, did a trial fit of all the bits..."

 

Happily, the total cost is very acceptable, and I want them to do the rebuild and the setup - I am very pleased with their previous work. 

 

As for the respray,  the luthier will get someone called Toby (Diggins?) at T Dog customs to do it on their behalf. 

 

Suddenly, I need the Washburn logo and the S.I.T strings!

Edited August 30 by bass_dinger

[MichaelDean]

Toby is the grandson of John Diggins, aka Jaydee Guitars. You're in good hands. 

[bass_dinger]

11 hours ago, Grahambythesea said:

On eBay Washburn logo

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125968877837?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=yumhzhf9qim&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=_-qNzvFMRiS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

This is an 8cm logo, whereas mine is the 6 ½cm version (shown here on the chopped off headstock).

 

I will contact Washburn and see what they have, but will also consider the one on ebay, given that it is so close in size.

 

 

In other news, I contacted the previous owner of both basses, and asked him if he could help me to source the strings. 

 

https://lordofthestrings.com/en/bass/electric/5-string/sit-strings-nrl5-45120l-silencer-nickel-semi-flat-bass-strings.html

 

https://gitaarsnaren.nl/bas-gitaar/5-snarige-bas-gitaar-sets/sit-strings-nrl5-45120l-silencer-nickel-semi-flat-bass-strings.html