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P bass project (pic taken on the usual plywood floor!) :-)


mrbacco
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Somewhat surprisingly there are metal coloured filaments for 3d printing. Never looked for them before. 

 

eSUN Silk Metal PLA Filament 1.75mm, Silky Metallic 3D Printer Filament PLA, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05mm, 1KG Spool (2.2 LBS) 3D Printing Filament for 3D Printers, Silk Silver https://amzn.eu/d/1VDIFWd

 

The design is easy. Need accurate measurements down to 0.5mm and the best guess for the curves in the corners.

 

The filament is PLA which should be easy to print. 

 

Let me investigate a bit further. I suspect it will be a dull silver rather than chrome.  

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44 minutes ago, Rexel Matador said:

You could go with an old school pickup cover!

 

preview.jpg.da66695569a957ae6790b4de8f356c56.jpg

 

yeah ... this is an option too, some part of me likes looking at the pickups usually, that's why I did not go with this choice innediately, thanks!

Edited by mrbacco
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34 minutes ago, rwillett said:

Somewhat surprisingly there are metal coloured filaments for 3d printing. Never looked for them before. 

 

eSUN Silk Metal PLA Filament 1.75mm, Silky Metallic 3D Printer Filament PLA, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05mm, 1KG Spool (2.2 LBS) 3D Printing Filament for 3D Printers, Silk Silver https://amzn.eu/d/1VDIFWd

 

The design is easy. Need accurate measurements down to 0.5mm and the best guess for the curves in the corners.

 

The filament is PLA which should be easy to print. 

 

Let me investigate a bit further. I suspect it will be a dull silver rather than chrome.  

 

I can provide the measurements, it is a standard pbass cavity I guess, but I will send the measurements! thanks!

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22 minutes ago, PaulThePlug said:

  23 hours ago, PaulThePlug said:

...'d go Cheap P pick guard, cut down minimalist to more a pickup surround to cover the P route and wire channel... and to adjoin the  control plate ala Jazz... a P MM J fusion...

Any broken P plates out their?

 

Thanks!! 🙂 

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I am also exploring this solution now, following @PaulThePlug suggestion (thanks @PaulThePlug!!!): I found this low cost plastic based mirror effect pickguard on amazon (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01KNYU296/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), that could resemble the same effect of the chrome control plate. I will just need to carefully cut it and screw it on the body. Let me think on it!! 

Edited by mrbacco
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folks one quick question, hope you don't mind: might be a rookie question still, so I apologize in advance if it's redundant or useless: I am in the process of mounting the bridge: in the first P bass I made I calculated 864mm from nut to the middle of the bridge to give space for intonation: I am planning to the same here. Is this the correct way to mount the bridge or should I look for more or others things that I am ignoring now? 

 

Thanks, please see image on the right

 

PXL_20231007_110633836.PORTRAIT1.thumb.jpg.0ffb8270677ddf5f32ccb0e7c25f7796.jpg

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Generally, I measure these 34 inches (864 mm) scale distance from the nut to the place where the D saddle should be, which is more or less what you're doing.

 

It's not a rookie question at all and you were right to ask it.

 

Also check the parallelism with the neck to be sure the bridge is correctly centered.

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52 minutes ago, Hellzero said:

Generally, I measure these 34 inches (864 mm) scale distance from the nut to the place where the D saddle should be, which is more or less what you're doing.

 

It's not a rookie question at all and you were right to ask it.

 

Also check the parallelism with the neck to be sure the bridge is correctly centered.

 

thanks, I was asking also because in the red tele I made before I put the bridge a few mm too far down, so the saddles are almost all moved up for the intonation, but it is not a big issue ... Thanks!!! 🙂 

Edited by mrbacco
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And, for a change, a different background .. it's coming alive, I finished the mounting of the second hand neck and bridge and oiled the body and the head . 

 

It looks like a bass guitar, does it? 

 

One other question, sorry: what is the best way to check if the neck is mounted properly and is 90 degrees to the body pocket and in the right position?

 

Take into consideration I don't had many bass making specific tools, just a few carpenters focussed .

 

16966887374598802780725785329240.thumb.jpg.a1ff22f6944b55a283f27c265c713f56.jpg

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In fact, the neck certainly isn't 90° to the pocket, but is tilted a bit more to again be aligned with the bridge, the saddles to be precise.

 

Simply put a long enough straight ruler on the whole neck directly on the frets and it should be just very very slightly above the saddles, like this, thanks to @Andyjr1515 :

IMG_20231007_180402.thumb.jpg.6862071451d716ba15760e31089d3c81.jpg

 

If it's lower, simply shim the neck by putting a ... shim close to the bridge in the neck pocket.

 

If it's too high, put the shim at the opposite end of the neck pocket, but it's quite rare.

 

Edited by Hellzero
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So, I put the strings on, they seem to be spot on, I also checked with my lovely carpenter level tool that I use for all the wood work, and it was right above the saddles, sorry I did not take the picture, but the final is below with a lovely Irish Blue Sky in the background!

 

PXL_20231007_170458021.thumb.jpg.0268c671eeecfa16c78f585b9e206c62.jpg

 

 

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I just have to check the volume again, as for some reasons it does not work, it stays at the max the whole time! Those pickups are not the best, I maybe will try to swap them in the future for some good ones (feel free to send any offer if you have any on sale).

 

Also, I had a bit of a fight with the action adjustment and the truss rod, so I will have to get back to that now too! 

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Also ... I noticed that, despite having tuned the truss rod, I still get some fret buzz at the 11th frets for A, D and G strings. Cannot find the right setup. What am I doing wrong here? Am I adjusting the truss rod too much? Thanks! Action seems not as low as I like it also.

Edited by mrbacco
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54 minutes ago, mrbacco said:

Also ... I noticed that, despite having tuned the truss rod, I still get some fret buzz at the 11th frets for A, D and G strings. Cannot find the right setup. What am I doing wrong here? Am I adjusting the truss rod too much? Thanks! Action seems not as low as I like it also.

Sounds like the 12th fret might be a little too high.

 

You'll want to check to see if it's just that fret or if the whole lot could do with being levelled. It's a job for a professional really unless you want to invest in a few specialist tools and a lot of practice!

Edited by Rexel Matador
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12 minutes ago, Rexel Matador said:

Sounds like the 12th fret might be a little too high.

 

You'll want to check to see if it's just that fret or if the whole lot could do with being levelled. It's a job for a professional really unless you want to invest in a few specialist tools and a lot of practice!

 

Thanks for the reply here, yeah I tried to replicate the similar setup I have on my Squier active jazz deluxe which has a perfectly straight neck and low action, but no success ... Thanks! The practice would be very welcome, the invest in tools I am not allowed for October .. hahaha  🙂 

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19 hours ago, Rexel Matador said:

Sounds like the 12th fret might be a little too high.

 

You'll want to check to see if it's just that fret or if the whole lot could do with being levelled. It's a job for a professional really unless you want to invest in a few specialist tools and a lot of practice!

 

Edited by mrbacco
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On 07/10/2023 at 21:39, Hellzero said:

The external lug (on the right when you look from the top of pot) opposed to the pickup input is certainly not grounded. 😉

 

Yes, 100% right you were, thanks. Fixing it now! Thank you! 🙂 

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