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A 3d printed six string....


rwillett

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1 minute ago, rwillett said:

However that still doesn't get round the issue the pickguard looks poor 😩

 

Any designers out there who can advise?

Run it around the bridge and the end of the neck. At the bridge round the corners, at the neck follow the profile if the edges of the body.

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20 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Run it around the bridge and the end of the neck. At the bridge round the corners, at the neck follow the profile if the edges of the body.

That might work. I could redesign the neck heal and the bridge to have more mounting holes for the pickguard. 

 

7 minutes ago, Owen said:

Could you print it in black and white incorporating the shapes the main body's holes are?

Not sure what that would look like. Could you expand please?

 

Thanks

 

Rob

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I would extend up along either side of the neck and down alongside the bridge and (If you can) sculpt the side to echo the body, a bit like this crude graphic but with smoother transitions.

pgard.jpg.33c25c46e790557f7e804e8be4351526.jpg

Sam x

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1 hour ago, rwillett said:

Not sure what that would look like. Could you expand please?

 

Thanks

 

Rob

As I was writing that, I knew it was woolly. You could mirror the shapes of the cutouts of the body in black on a white pickguard.  Or, another idea would be to look at the black lines in the body and extend them "across" the pickguard. If that makes sense.

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On 19/10/2024 at 14:15, rwillett said:

Ah, now I understand what you mean. That's pretty simple to do. The video is around 75% TinkerCad and 25% Prusaslicer. It's a lot easier doing what he was doing in TinkerCad in Fusion 360. Once it's in F360, a lot of his alignment in PrusaSlicer goes away as well. He had a very laborious way of alignment and setting things up.

 

However all said and done, he did make a nice phone case, I hadn't thought of changing the infill at different heights to get the flexibility. I'm normally trying to make things as rigid as possible so that was a good idea.  The downside to this is that constantly changing the filament is painfully slow with a MMU (Multi Material Unit) as it's manual. Until recently Prusa's MMU was seen as a joke, an expensive joke, the new MMU might be a lot better. However doing a large number of filament changes makes the printing very slow. I have an issue that where I have my two printers, doesn;t allow enough space for the MMU as it takes a lot of space up as well.

 

None of this is that difficult, I might do a Union Jack this weekend to check what I thought was right is actually right. I also happen to have red, white and blue filaments close to hand and open :)

 

If it spurs some ideas for you thats great.

 

Thanks for sharing the video

 

Rob

 

I finally got around to doing a simple test for doing multiple colours with a single extruder.

 

IMG_3513.thumb.jpeg.6f83d95602c3fc99f701bad0ce2d8341.jpeg

 

This is a white box in a blackbox. I had forgotten how tedious this is. Every layer has to have two colour changes, from one colour to the next and then back again. Doing eight layers took 25 mins. I got bored and gave up :)

 

This is doable but its hard work. @Owen has suggested a black and white colour scheme and I do like the idea of carrying the Vertoroni shapes through to the pickguard. Its easy to design but it's very, very, very slow to print as there are so many manual colour changes. I think it will take about 8x as long :) and I have to watch it all the time.

 

Anyway I learnt a lot here

 

Thanks


Rob

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