Save me from myself - possible 1x10 cab build

[stevie]

Try to find @Phil Starr's cab assembly video on here. It's inspirational.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

2 hours ago, Chienmortbb said:

There are many terms in woodwork that separate the British and Americans Bill.

I'm familiar with battens, I've used them extensively in home building, just not in speakers within recent memory. I went to monocoque in the 1990s.

[Phil Starr]

When I designed the first easy build cab I wanted it to be something that someone with minimal tools and experience could build on the kitchen table with the minimum frustration and the maximum chance of success. I wanted to use materials that are available not just in the UK but around the world and not likely to disappear.  I've 50+ years of experience building cabs and access to my own well equipped workshop but I wanted something  somebody could build with the tools I started out with: screwdriver, drill, and a couple of saws.  Using screwed and glued battens makes it all a lot easier with no need to wait around for glue to dry, no fiddly clamping  and very little chance of failure.  Happily lot's of people have been encouraged to build their first cabs and are happy with the results

[Phil Starr]

On 10/11/2023 at 14:27, tauzero said:

I'm tempted to put a cab together that's intermediate between the 6" micro cab and the BC 112 Mk3. I was thinking of the 8" cab, but I realised I've got a Deltalite II 2510 upstairs and I wondered about building a 1x10 tweeterless cab with not dissimilar dimensions to the 8" cab, using the Deltalite and the 68mm pipe I have knocking about in the shed after the 6" cab build. I plugged the Deltalite parameters into WinISD (found on TB, all the others fail internal consistency) and a 25l box tuned to 50Hz with a 12.4 cm long port looks as if it would work. Would this be a sensible path to pursue? @Phil Starr, @stevie?

 

 

I've had a quick look and Bill is spot on 40l is about right for your speaker. Any smaller and you lose a lot of bass response which you will definitely hear in the result. This is the bass response of your Deltalite in a 25l cab in red. The green line is the Celestion Pulse in our 30l cab which has a fairly light neutral sounding bass. You can get that sort of response if you go to 35 litres with your driver and I think you'll prefer the extra bass. You'll get even more of you go up to 42l  but i personally wouldn't go down to 25l with that driver, for me you'd be squeezing the life out of it

 

 

[tauzero]

It's about 34l, basically the largest I can squeeze out of a single 610 x 1220 sheet of ply (and with the not-very-accurate B&Q cutting). I've cut the various orifices in the panels but have yet to assemble them, I'll be pushing the front baffle slightly further forward to increase the volume a little. Would tuning to 55Hz be better than 50Hz from the point of view of improving bass response?

[Phil Starr]

9 hours ago, tauzero said:

It's about 34l, basically the largest I can squeeze out of a single 610 x 1220 sheet of ply (and with the not-very-accurate B&Q cutting). I've cut the various orifices in the panels but have yet to assemble them, I'll be pushing the front baffle slightly further forward to increase the volume a little. Would tuning to 55Hz be better than 50Hz from the point of view of improving bass response?

It all sounds promising. Our '30l' cab is actually around that size, I prefer to be slightly over than under and I found with your speaker that going down to 30l and below was where the performance fell off sharply so 34l looks good. I did try 55hz tuning and thought it looked a little better but that to an extent is about taste. It's worth remembering that winISD is only as good as the data you enter and that the manufacturers specs are sometimes not entirely accurate.  The program also makes some assumptions about things like leakage from the cab assuming Ql is around 7 for example. so calculated tuning is not always the same as the actual tuning.  With drainpipe being so cheap I've often made up a number of ports so I can swap them around quickly and try different tunings. It's all about what sounds good as well and ideally you want an iterative process of designing and testing. Have a look at excursion and maximum power handling too once you have programmed in the tuning as this will change at 55Hz too.

 

This is the point where it gets exciting  

Edited November 18, 2023 by Phil Starr

[bremen]

Possible threadjack - im jumping in here as Phil and Bill are in the room. 

 

I have a beta 10 that I'd like to put in a 30-ish litre cab. Thing is, though, xmax is only 3mm and winisd shows a huge dip in max power between resonance and 150Hz. However, xlim is ok so im thinking maybe itll just sound dirty (possibly in a good way) being driven beyond xmax but obviously not exceeding xlim. 

 

Or should i just stick it on ebay and buy a Fane Sovereign 8? 

 

Cheers

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

A single Beta 10 is OK for practice or coffee house gigs, but that's about it. Long xlim means you're not likely to destroy it with more than 50 watts but it's not going to sound good. The Sovereign 8-225 isn't much better, having less cone area. The Sovereign 10 is worthy, being nearly the equal of two Beta 10.

[bremen]

Thanks Bill. 

 

I might go ahead and use it for practice/café and try adding a 3015LF crossing over above 150Hz for use when drummers are involved. 

Edited November 21, 2023 by bremen

[bremen]

I had a better idea - I don't anticipate playing any cafés any time soon, so I'm putting the Beta 10 on ebay and making a box to put a Beyma CM10 in.

 

Not such a high thermal rating, but over twice the Xmax means it can take 125W all the way down, and with a HPF looking after below-resonance excursions still does 107dB at 50Hz.