Lakland LH3 Pre Gain Screw Adjustment

[Quent]

Hi Lakland fans! Have any of you turned the small Gain adjustment screw

on the LH3 pre amp board ? ** I don’t want to dive in and over do it and knacker the board.**

I have a 2011 Skyline 44-02 and whilst loud enough with the Pre engaged it is 

noticeably feeble in passive mode.

I’m thinking, turn up the gain a bit to help in passive mode , then turn Vol down a bit if too

crazy in Active mode. 

So, is it clockwise turn for increased gain ?

Would a 1/4 turn be excessive to start with?

The pic below I copied shows the cross headed screw circled in red.

Thanks for any help!

Cheers. Quent.

[Lfalex v1.1]

(Not that I own one a Lakland, but I do own a bass with a preamp trim pot...)

 

Personally,  I've adjusted the preamp gain so the output level when it's flat = passive mode.

 

That way,  there's no perceived volume jump if you switch mid-gig / mid-song.

 

If you don't do that, or never use passive mode,  it's less of a concern. 

 

 

 

[Dad3353]

I agree with the above. Set your bass/amp volume levels using passive mode, then adjust the trim pot in active mode until the level is the same. Tiny adjustments would be best; about 1/10 of a turn at the time, as it may be quite sensitive. The ideal is to have the same perceived volume from the instrument whether in active or passive. Hope this helps. 

[Quent]

Hi  Lfalex. I see what you’re saying about your other brand of Preamp but from what I’ve read, the Lakland LH3 gain screw alters the gain of both active and passive modes, rather than just the active?

Perhaps a Lakland owner will clear that up? Specifically someone who’s had a go at turning the LH3 screw…

…….that’s what I’m chickening out of ! ( In case I physically mess up the electronics board.)

Thanks. Quent

 

 

[Quent]

Thanks Dad! That makes sense , as Lfalex said. 

Perhaps my misunderstanding about the LH3 screw altering the Gain of both Passive and Active modes.

So, as Passive is feeble currently, you’re saying turn the gain down ( as you seem to think it’s only Active gain ).

Excuse my iggorunss !

I’ll try 1/10 turns either way and see what happens.

Will report back.

Cheers. Quent

[sandy_r]

The thread, from which you copied that photo with the gain trimmer circled, gives the same advice you're receiving here

 

The only way to increase passive output from your pickups is to raise their height closer to the strings

 

Passive means 'no added electronic enhancement' to the signal - it's entirely what you get with just pickups, control pots and wires. There's no problem adjusting the gain trimmer in the active circuit - that's what it's for.  i sincerely doubt that it affects the passive volume - it certainly can't add gain to the passive wiring

 

As others have suggested, the best approach if you want perceived 'increase' of the relative volume of the passive output, is to reduce the active gain (using that trimmer) and just increase your amp gain accordingly

 

HTH

 

[Quent]

Hi Sandy,

Thanks for your advice. It all makes perfect sense of course. 

I got thrown by misinterpreting something I read online about the LH3 gain adjustment

and the fact that this is the only bass I’ve had with such a Vol drop off when 

in passive vs active (set flat). eg My Sandbergs all  have same perceived Vol in passive , near enough.  

 

I’m not going to equalise the Act/Pass volumes ( by turning Act gain down)  because I mainly play through

headphones and a Digitech BP355 multi pedal which gives me decent volume when it’s Vol

is set at Max , (99! ) so lowering the LH3 gain would spoil my Volume Fun , with no headroom left in the BP355.

 

Thank you all, you’ve cleared that up for me nicely 👏💥. 

 

I did enjoy adjusting the tiny gain screw using a Xmas Cracker mini screw driver set I found in a drawer!

Preowned, so adjusted from prev setting. 1/4 turn created distortion so back a bit until loud ……and clear.

 

On your pickup height suggestion Sandy, I tried raising to help with passive signal but it didn’t bridge the gap

to Act Vol noticeably and started distorting so reset heights to Standard suggested by Lakland ( Open strings - E 4mm bridge   Humbucker and 4.4 mm on the E at Neck, (slightly less for the Gs).

 

I can live with feeble passive as I like the active pallet so much, I’ll just use that. Other basses I have can do 

both really well ( usually tone control for the passive mode, but not on my Skyline 44-02). Don’t gig so no issue

playing live ( Had fun in the 90s playing in pubs ).

 

Settled on Midrange internal dip switch setting of 500Hz to get a great punchy almost fat tone set flat , then get as fat

as you want from there or roll off bass and add Treb Mids for more clank etc.

 

I only just discovered a really good video on Youtube by a guy running through all the LH3  9 dipswitch settings and sounds.

Throughout the Mids about 8/10 , bass and treb 5/10 both pickups on , massive difference dropping from the 

stock 600Hz mid rang centre to 450Hz and lower. 

Hopefully here’s the link and a photo of the 9 Mids settings he refers to.

Thanks again you guys! 👍🤘

Quent

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Lfalex v1.1]

Crikey.

Nearly as complicated as an Ibanez EDA900.

That has six trim pots,  all governing the piezo- electric bridge; One for each string,  one for global piezo level and one for piezo bass trim.

The 905 gets another one for the extra string!

[Misdee]

I'd recommend contacting Lakland directly to ask for advice on adjusting the preamp gain. They are usually very helpful.

[Quent]

Thanks Misdee. I did resolve this ( well, WE did , after consultations above ). 

Easy enough to turn the small Gain screw 1/4 turn at a time, then check change in Gain.

The Passive mode is just quiet. The Active mode is healthily loud, any more gain and it

distorts. 

I’ll run it in Active anyway, which is my preference for my Active with Passive option basses. 

Cheers. Quent.