bassjamm Posted May 21, 2007 Share Posted May 21, 2007 Hi all, Sooo...i'm going to make and install a ramp on my Ken Smith BSRB...i've bought myself a block of ebony, but haven't really got a clue what to do? I spoke with Ped and we agreed that for now, the best way to fix the ramp when it's constructed, is by using the sticky tap that you attach car number plates with, seems like a good idea, as i don't want to start having to make holes, at least with some strong tape i'll only ever have to give it a real good clean should i need to remove it! The wood, it's come covered in wax, any ideas on how best to remove this wax? As for making the actual thing, i guess it's just simply a case of making the measurements, cutting it to size, sanding down the cuts, and then fixing it...am i right? Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urb Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 [quote name='bassjamm' post='3764' date='May 21 2007, 04:17 PM']Hi all, Sooo...i'm going to make and install a ramp on my Ken Smith BSRB...i've bought myself a block of ebony, but haven't really got a clue what to do? I spoke with Ped and we agreed that for now, the best way to fix the ramp when it's constructed, is by using the sticky tap that you attach car number plates with, seems like a good idea, as i don't want to start having to make holes, at least with some strong tape i'll only ever have to give it a real good clean should i need to remove it! The wood, it's come covered in wax, any ideas on how best to remove this wax? As for making the actual thing, i guess it's just simply a case of making the measurements, cutting it to size, sanding down the cuts, and then fixing it...am i right? Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Jamie[/quote] Hi Jamie I had ramps added to both my basses by the guy who made my fretless - the pic on my sig is pre-ramp - but you can see it here with the ramp - [url="http://www.munkio.com/jeffchapman/flynn_fretless.html"]http://www.munkio.com/jeffchapman/flynn_fretless.html[/url] - I think you have the right idea, if you can get it to match the height of the pickups that's ideal - so you have a continuous playing surface under your fingers. In terms of attching it I'd say go with the tape, as much as I cou;dn't live without the ramp on the Warwick, it was screwed in and I slightly regret that - but the end result should be a snug fit between the pick ups - let us know how you get on - and er, pics would be cool. Cheers Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Cooke Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 I've knocked up a trial ramp for my P-bass clone... I used a piece of basswood from hobbycraft and trimmed it to fit between the pickup and neck. I've attached it with double sided sellotape... I'll be making a trial ramp for my peavey next month, but that one I want to be from clear perspex or acrylic as I want to see the flame maple veneer finish beneath. Not sure how to fix that one as the double sided tape isn't clear... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ped Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 Tricky one Paul. I would be tempted to use the black tape anyway and just have two lines going down the sides of the ramp, should look fine. An acrylic block that thick might distort the underlying grain somewhat anyway. Cheers ped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thumb4bob Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 What happened to this thread??? I was looking foreward to some ramp porn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Cooke Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 [quote name='thumb4bob' post='52097' date='Aug 29 2007, 01:21 AM']What happened to this thread??? I was looking foreward to some ramp porn [/quote] I've taken my trial ramps off pending making final ones... I'm after a source of acrylic, but don't want to have to buy a whopping 6'x4' sheet... Annoying, as where I used to work, I had access to a decent workshop with lots of offcuts for making projects from... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ped Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 Bassjamm sold the Smith ;0) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thumb4bob Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 [quote name='ped' post='52159' date='Aug 29 2007, 09:21 AM']Bassjamm sold the Smith ;0)[/quote] ahhhhhhh well that would make sense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcgraham Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 I've actually just been down to camden and had mr petersen do a complete set up and make a ramp from that same block of ebony on this Smith I bought from bassjamm. If you're after the pics I'd be happy to put some samples up (though I'm on the road for the next few days so it may be a few days before they're up). As a quick plug for the gallery (not that it needs it) they had it on Tuesday lunchtime and it was done when I popped by on Thursday lunchtime, how obscenely quick is that?! It is an extremely well executed job and fits the bass perfectly, it looks like the bass was designed and built with it. My proverbial hat is off to the guys at the gallery for such fast and professional work. Oh and the bass and ramp together play beautifully, you all missed out on a great bass, but hey! your loss is my gain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ped Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 A request for pics please!! You definitely did get a superb bass in that Smith. I was SO CLOSE to buying it at the bash - if there was a cashpoint I would have done. Glad it has worked out for you, and looking forward to seeing the picz. ped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MB1 Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 MB1. None of these look particularly strong enough for a BMX?... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7string Posted September 13, 2007 Share Posted September 13, 2007 I have one of my basses with Mr Shuker at the moment. A ramp is one of the two jobs that he's going to do for me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazm Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 [quote name='MB1' post='58735' date='Sep 11 2007, 02:02 PM']MB1. None of these look particularly strong enough for a BMX?...[/quote] Was thinking similar here... so, what does a ramp on a bass do? Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Cooke Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 [quote name='Gazm' post='60550' date='Sep 14 2007, 07:17 PM']Was thinking similar here... so, what does a ramp on a bass do? Pete.[/quote] makes it easier to play consistent finger style between the pickups or between the pickup and the neck... effectively makes the pickup very wide... [url="http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/theramp.html"]http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/theramp.html[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 I first put one on my Status as a trial run... it worked so well I had Jon Shuker put one on my J5 when he made it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ali-stare Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 is it important for the ramp to be the same radius as the fingerboard (as on the gary willis basses) or can it just be a block of wood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Cooke Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 [quote name='ali-stare' post='60585' date='Sep 14 2007, 08:33 PM']is it important for the ramp to be the same radius as the fingerboard (as on the gary willis basses) or can it just be a block of wood?[/quote] my pickups are flat, so my ramp is flat and the same height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 Yes, I think it's more important that the ramp matches the pickups rather than the f/board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazm Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 [quote name='Paul Cooke' post='60556' date='Sep 14 2007, 06:29 PM']makes it easier to play consistent finger style between the pickups or between the pickup and the neck... effectively makes the pickup very wide... [url="http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/theramp.html"]http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/theramp.html[/url][/quote] Thanks for the reply Paul, never had a problem though - guess I'm lucky. Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
endorka Posted September 15, 2007 Share Posted September 15, 2007 [quote name='Rich' post='60598' date='Sep 14 2007, 08:59 PM']Yes, I think it's more important that the ramp matches the pickups rather than the f/board.[/quote] In my opinion, I would suggest the opposite - one of the main points of the ramp is to provide a consistent height below the string to ensure that you do not dig in too much when plucking the string. If the height varies too much from string to string, as it will do if the ramp is flat, then this aspect of the ramp is significantly diminished. You will be able to dig in more on the inner strings than the outer ones. On Gary Willis basses, the pickups have a radius that matches the fingerboard, as does the ramp, which I think is the right approach. Pickups with a radius are difficult to find, however, so on one of my basses I put a very shallow ramp over part of the pickup; it looks terrible, but played and sounded like a dream. It allowed me ideal thumb placement for "floating thumb" technique - I didn't have to lift the thumb far at all when moving it across strings. Jennifer [url="http://www.jenniferclarkbass.com"]http://www.jenniferclarkbass.com[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRedX Posted September 15, 2007 Share Posted September 15, 2007 What's interesting here is that everyone seems to be placing their ramp between the pickups but quoting Gary Willis who's ramp goes between fingerboard and the pickup. My ideal bass sounds come from plucking btween the 24th fret and the neck pickup (much closer towards the bridge and the sound becomes too 'hard' and seems to be all initial click and no bassy sustain), so for me the GW model seems to be better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
endorka Posted September 15, 2007 Share Posted September 15, 2007 [quote name='BigRedX' post='60720' date='Sep 15 2007, 07:58 AM']What's interesting here is that everyone seems to be placing their ramp between the pickups but quoting Gary Willis who's ramp goes between fingerboard and the pickup.[/quote] That's because Gary Willis' basses have only one pickup, whereas most other basses have two. [quote]My ideal bass sounds come from plucking btween the 24th fret and the neck pickup (much closer towards the bridge and the sound becomes too 'hard' and seems to be all initial click and no bassy sustain), so for me the GW model seems to be better.[/quote] I think the bass sounds great there too - more of the fundamental note is present, and it is possible to get a tone that shares some characteristics of a double bass. Where I find I have to be careful playing this way is is that it doesn't always work well in a band context - the sound can come across as woolly, whereas playing between the pickups may sound odd when the bass is on its own, but the hard, clicky staccato sound you mention can sit well in a mix in some types of music. The problem for some of putting a standard ramp between neck and pickup is that it pretty much rules out slapping and popping, although I believe some players advocate using a modified ramp in this area to assist with popping. I've left the ramp off this area for this reason, and tend to pluck between the 22nd and 24th fret to get a similar sound, with the fingerboard serving as the ramp. Jennifer [url="http://www.jenniferclarkbass.com"]http://www.jenniferclarkbass.com[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7string Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 [quote name='Paul Cooke' post='6252' date='May 25 2007, 06:55 AM']I've knocked up a trial ramp for my P-bass clone... I used a piece of basswood from hobbycraft and trimmed it to fit between the pickup and neck. I've attached it with double sided sellotape... I'll be making a trial ramp for my peavey next month, but that one I want to be from clear perspex or acrylic as I want to see the flame maple veneer finish beneath. Not sure how to fix that one as the double sided tape isn't clear...[/quote] [quote name='ped' post='6332' date='May 25 2007, 10:52 AM']Tricky one Paul. I would be tempted to use the black tape anyway and just have two lines going down the sides of the ramp, should look fine. An acrylic block that thick might distort the underlying grain somewhat anyway. Cheers ped[/quote] Whatever you do, do not use 'clear drying' superglue. This doesn't work as it ends up drying white under clear perspex. Don't ask me why, but this is what happens and I speak from experience... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Cooke Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 [quote name='7string' post='62900' date='Sep 19 2007, 11:41 PM']Whatever you do, do not use 'clear drying' superglue. This doesn't work as it ends up drying white under clear perspex. Don't ask me why, but this is what happens and I speak from experience... [/quote] I've got hold of some clear glue "dots" for when I get round to it again... [url="http://www.gluedots.com/display/router.aspx?DocID=279"]http://www.gluedots.com/display/router.aspx?DocID=279[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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