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Intonation Problem


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So I bought a bass that won't intonate. Only on one string but it's maxed out and needs to go further. Had this on another bass and I just moved the bridge back a bit; problem solved.

This bridge is fixed into drilled holes. It ain't moving.

Is there owt I can do?

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OK folks, getting the ruler out to measure string height, I used it to check what my unreliable eyesight was telling me. The bridge has been bodged on and it isn't square. Not much but the couple of mm I need.

Nothing short of major surgery can fix this one I'm afraid.

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On 21/01/2024 at 17:08, stewblack said:

OK folks, getting the ruler out to measure string height, I used it to check what my unreliable eyesight was telling me. The bridge has been bodged on and it isn't square. Not much but the couple of mm I need.

Nothing short of major surgery can fix this one I'm afraid.

I might be far from the optimal solution from a strictly aesthetical point of view, but if possible it would certainly fix it from a functional/practical point of view: Wouldn't it be possible to remove the current bridge and install an entirely different more regular one, or even mono rail bridge piece, and that way fix the problem? 

 

Edited by Baloney Balderdash
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13 minutes ago, Baloney Balderdash said:

I might be far from the optimal solution from a strictly aesthetical point of view, but if possible it would certainly fix it from a functional/practical point of view: Wouldn't it be possible to remove the current bridge and install an entirely different more regular one, or even mono rail bridge piece, and that way fix the problem? 

 

If I could find a bridge that suited the bass and covered all the holes drilled out to sink the existing bridge into the body, then yes, absolutely.

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On 21/01/2024 at 16:08, stewblack said:

Nothing short of major surgery can fix this one I'm afraid.

Any chance the neck has a 21st fret overhang ?

 

Sticking a block arse end of the pocket would shift the nut further from the bridge.

Course you'd need to plug and re-drill the neck screws but the bridge can remain in place and the overhang will hide the eyesore.

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2 hours ago, stewblack said:

I'm actually going with @kodiakblair 's idea and moving the neck farther away.

I went the opposite way last time Stew.

 

Felt the bridge on was too close to the pickup on this build. 30" scale length 24 frets.

 

ShortyGreen(1).thumb.jpg.4f235aa5504400b99502e670fae65cbe.jpg

 

For my take on the Mosrite, I still used a 30" scale 24 fret neck but chopped it down to 20 frets. Forced me to move the bridge to a better position.

 

IMG_20231228_170303700_HDR.thumb.jpg.1591797a4f45bab99de40b463d1a5514.jpg 

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  • 1 month later...
On 22/01/2024 at 23:22, kodiakblair said:

I went the opposite way last time Stew.

 

Felt the bridge on was too close to the pickup on this build. 30" scale length 24 frets.

 

ShortyGreen(1).thumb.jpg.4f235aa5504400b99502e670fae65cbe.jpg

 

For my take on the Mosrite, I still used a 30" scale 24 fret neck but chopped it down to 20 frets. Forced me to move the bridge to a better position.

 

IMG_20231228_170303700_HDR.thumb.jpg.1591797a4f45bab99de40b463d1a5514.jpg 

Out of interest,  where did you find a 30" scale 24 fret neck?

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26 minutes ago, MoonBassAlpha said:

Out of interest,  where did you find a 30" scale 24 fret neck?

Both basses used guitar bodies so I went with baritone paddle necks.

 

All maple one from Yinfente, rosewood board from Seimonic/Guitar-Shopping. Cost about £60 - £65.

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