Bass Setup

[FarquariousFjord]

Ahoy folks, I picked up an old short scale bass, but it needs a bit of work. I figured I best start with the neck as the action is ridiculously uneven, but I'm unfamiliar with the type of truss rod it has (I've attached a photo). Anyone know what kind of tool I'd need to adjust it? Thanks in advance.

 

The brand/model is RAVER and it says Made in Japan, but those are the only details I can confirm. I was told that it's from the 70s. 

[White Cloud]

Pop an Allen key or screwdriver into one of the facing holes and turn: right-tight (less relief), left-loose (more relief).

 

Just like the rod systems featured on Musicman and a few other brands. 

[Dad3353]

9 minutes ago, FarquariousFjord said:

... Anyone know what kind of tool I'd need to adjust it? ...

 

Any steel rod that fits snugly into the holes around the adjuster is fine (length not critical, but 3-6 inches would be fine...). The rod goes into one of the holes, and the adjuster turned. After a bit, the rod can't turn any further, so it comes out to go into the next hole that has become available. Typically, only a quarter-turn at most at a time, though, so go easy; don't start turning it round and round..! Which way to turn..? Depends on whether the neck needs more or less 'bow'. Turning clockwise will decrease the 'bow', turning anti-clockwise will increase the 'bow'. Hope this helps. 

Edited February 5 by Dad3353

[FarquariousFjord]

Thanks, this was really helpful 👍

[Roger Phillips]

Aye, I'd go along with Dad3353's comments. It's like a capstan and by the looks the holes are spaced for quarter turns.

Roger in the South Lakes.

[FarquariousFjord]

Next stop the saddle, which is also a bit different from what I'm familiar with. There are two screws that raise / lower the saddle and two that move it closer or further away from the neck. 

 

In regards to raising / lowering the saddle, can those screws be removed entirely so that the saddle sits directly on the body? With the screws removed the distance between the frets and strings is 1mm at the first fret and 3mm at the 12th fret. Whereas with the screws set at their lowest position (without being so loose they might fall out) the 12th fret is 4mm from the string. 

 

Adjusting the other screws is limited as the length of the screws are such that they touch the strings if I try to move the saddle away from the neck. At the farthest setting I can manage (without the strings hitting the screws when played), I'm still coming up quite sharp. 

 

I figure I'm either doing something very wrong or maybe these aren't the original screws? I'm thinking about shortening these screws, but figured I should ask here first in case I'm the issue not the screw.

 

Your expertise and advice is welcomed. Don't be shy to call me a dafty if I'm going about this all wrong. 

 

Thanks again.

[warwickhunt]

Caveat re 'righty tighty'... never take this as gospel; sometimes it is the reverse. 

 

Make an initial very small turn and check (or even keep the bass connected to a tuner to see if the pitch increases/decreases).

[FarquariousFjord]

I can loosen and tighten as far as the attached photos, either way the bass is sharp at the 12th fret. E is reading as halfway to F. I want to try going farther, but the screws get to close to the strings and it becomes unplayable. 

[FarquariousFjord]

I'm thinking maybe I should just pop a new bridge on it. 

[BigRedX]

Unless you still have, and want to fit, the original bridge cover which attaches to the the bit sticking up between the A and D strings, replacing the bridge would probably be a good idea. However check the string spacing first as it tends to be narrower than normal on these old basses.

[FarquariousFjord]

Thanks. I have the bridge cover, but can live without it if it means I can get this bass into shape. I'll check the spacing. 

[Grahambythesea]

That is one crude bridge piece. Makes a Gibson 2 point look sophisticated. 

[PaulThePlug]

Luverly take on a Compensated Bridge Saddle Blade...

Shorter Screws for Intonation and Height... I'd hack saw 5mm or so off, or replacements from somewhere like Spaldings Fasteners on the 'bay - I use em for A2 Stainless Grub Screws for bridge saddles.

Edited February 6 by PaulThePlug

[Pea Turgh]

Having recently developed a bit of a thing for odd old basses, I’d be interested in seeing more pictures!

[Rich]

1 minute ago, Pea Turgh said:

Having recently developed a bit of a thing for odd old basses, I’d be interested in seeing more pictures!

Likewise. 

I think the kindest thing that could be said about the bridge is 'rough and ready'  I would echo BRX's comment, unless you have the cover and are intent on keeping the bass 100% original I'd replace that bridge straightaway.  

[BreadBin]

That's an old Kay, I am fairly sure.

I bet it has a plywood neck. 

[jonno1981]

I’m intrigued. If you get a sec, can you post a pic of the bass? Looks really cool!