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A 3d printed headless bass ...


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3 hours ago, rwillett said:

I loved the Culture novels. I like the idea if naming this using that style a lot. 

"Just Testing" :)

Sam x

Love the Culture series ... I cheated a bit  directed research utilising previous knowledge work through guided, specialist and dedicated tools to optimise the search path, there by reducing false positives, ensuring audited and critical analysis, to deliver the goal oriented conclusion that met the stated target objectives via https://theculture.fandom.com/wiki/List_of_spacecraft

Edited by SamIAm
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Posted (edited)

Rather than

 

"cheated"

 

I would argue that you used

 

"Directed research utilising previous knowledge work through guided, specialist and dedicated tools to optimise the search path, there by reducing false positives, ensuring audited and critical analysis, to deliver the goal oriented conclusion that met the stated target objectives".

 

Who would have guessed I used to work in management consulting?

Edited by rwillett
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31 minutes ago, rwillett said:

Who would have guessed I used to work in management consulting?

I might have suspected (Having also done so) 🤣

 

Sam x

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I started with "Consider Phlebas". I'm not sure there is a particular order as most seem to standalone. Some are quite odd 😊 but still good

 

Iain Banks also did "Espedair Street" which is seriously funny and about a rock band Frozen Gold. 

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3 minutes ago, Richard R said:

Never heard of the Culture novels. If I were to read one, what should it be?

I'd suggest either The Player of Games or Consider Phlebas as a good entry book ... be prepared to while away many (many) enjoyable hours to cover the series.

 

Sam x

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Posted (edited)

Finally broke the back of V3 of the headless bass. I know it looks very similar to the last one but every single piece has been purposefully redesigned.

 

Screenshot2024-06-15at18_07_45.thumb.png.f281a9286aff671d9dbb2977130aab6f.png

 

Changes are:

 

1. Everything hangs off a T-shaped backbone. This simplifies the top and bottom body. It's also a lot stronger. It's also a lot quicker to make, suspect I can print and make this in 50-60% of the time of the last one.

Screenshot2024-06-15at18_21_40.png.b0a6f9e5f792065afc767d792ccece62.png

 

2. The body is no longer a Telecaster slab, but is contoured and rounded. This took a long time to design. It sounds simple but probably took five to six weeks just to get the curves right and then a new printer to work out how to print it. I probably went through ten rolls of filament to try and get it right. I can also print at 5% infill with no fears of bending. This makes it thinner and lighter, so it's 38mm rather than 45mm. I might also be able to get another 3mm off it as well. This should reduce pressure on the forearm. The only supports are around the edge for the bottom curve and thats it. As it's thinner and lighter, its quicker to print.

Screenshot2024-06-15at18_13_02.png.09604abcb1edb3a7454a8c7cd0fb73a7.png

 

 

3. The Ventori are significantly larger. The strength is still there, I can't bend it, but it's quicker to print and looks nice (at least to me). The pictures below are the same size (ish), just different zoom settings.

Screenshot2024-06-15at18_22_53.png.85bf15549f7dea8f30b713e88863b5ce.pngScreenshot2024-06-15at18_23_44.png.6e93f1827de79ec013d3f1ff4963d2f6.png

4. The internal construction has changed to make it easier to print. I can now print it and leave it to print for 24 hours as opposed to having to do things to it. I use plastic dowels to ensure things line up now. This should make glueing things not quite the exciting venture into the unknown as it used to be.
 

5. The accuracy and quality is massively better with the new printer (which is still a pain in parts). I'm now printing down at 0.1mm which is 3x thinner than before.  I don't actually need to sand anything now :)

 

6. A lot of prints were printed to test. This is all of the same sodding piece to test various wrong ideas out, there's a lot more of these as well.

 

IMG_2684.thumb.jpeg.e763a32c05cdb4d3da3b819406f787e2.jpeg

 

Now to order some more aluminium for the backbone. I really could do with a CNC pillar drill, but am not doing that.

 

Need to finalise the electrics. @neepheid and @JohnH89 I might be picking your brains if thats OK?

 

Good progress though

 

Rob

Screenshot 2024-06-15 at 18.10.36.png

Edited by rwillett
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are there no machine shops near you who could do the cutting, drilling and tapping work for you, as long as you have an accurate measurement set and a  drawing it's simple for a professional to do it, the smaller guys who do anything aren't always expensive

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I live in the Yorkshire Dales. There's very little near me apart from sheep and grass. No machine shops at all. 

 

I do have a decent pillar drill but it would be nice to just program all the drilling and tapping in and leave it. 

 

Around here it's all farms and delicate work is anything less than an m12 nut or smaller than a club hammer. 

 

It's just a case of printing the two drill guides up, getting it all ready in the garage and following my notes to make it quick. Nothing difficult just long 

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Posted (edited)

Got a few last things to do.

 

1. Sort out pickguard mounting holes. Not quite as simple as it sounds. The new design makes it difficult but I have some thoughts. The original design was clunky and required you to take strings off or really loosen them to remove it. Bad design.

 

2. Work out the height of the bridge and top of neck. This is getting it right by about 0.5 or so mm. It makes setting up easier. 

 

3. Work out how to put strap mounting on. The thinner design makes it a little tricky. Again, have thoughts, but need to test (again). 

 

4. Print drill guides and make notes as to what happens where. There's a lot of tapped pickup mounting holes at M2.5 and a lot of untapped M3 holes. Some are holes to allow longer screws to fit. I have to get every single one right 😩

 

5. Work out what pickups to use and what electrics to use. The current headless has Wilkinson pickups and Amazon's cheapest control panel as it was Weds before the NW Bass bash and I ran out of time. I love the idea of variety in the sound but is it really going to be much different, I note that @ossyrocks uses a single pickup precision and it seems to work well enough. Mmmm....

 

And other stuff I haven't thought of. 

 

Rob

Edited by rwillett
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I've just calculated how much faster the Prusa MK4 using Input Shaping is over a Mk4 without Input Shaping and also against a Prusa MK3S+.

 

I've used six pieces and sliced them each using different printer profiles. All other settings are identical.

 

image.png.5999b58dfcb4c435887b90bccb584852.png

 

So if I printed all six pieces on a single Prusa Mk3S+ it would take 88 hours. The same work on a Prusa Mk4 without Input Shaping is much the same, 84 hours. If we throw Input Shaping into the mix, the time take drops to 33.5 hours (ish). Thats a 2.5x speed up which is insane. The Mk4 without Input Shaping and with Input Shaping is the same printer with the same hardware, just driven differently. The quality seems to be identical. If I had a Prusa print farm where time is money, I'd get a lot of Prusa Mk4's.

 

I currently have 2 x MK3S+, one of which is supposed to go for free to local school (but if they don't move their 4r5es, that offer may get pulled). I thought I'd easily use three printers, but the Mk4 is so fast, I'm doing everything on it now. I may even decide not to keep the second MK3S+ at the moment.

 

Rob

 

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