martyy Posted May 26 Share Posted May 26 I'm looking for advice from any body finishing experts out there. I am attempting to finish a swamp ash body with angelus leather dye and crimson guitar finishing oil. I can get a colour that I am very happy with, the trouble starts when I try to apply the finishing oil... The oil readily dissolves the dye and lifts it, even after 4 or 5 applications. I've found that the dye dissolved in white spirit which is what the oil is based on. So I sanded back and for a second attempt I tried to seal it post-dye using shellac sanding sealer, using my own spraying equipment. Result was a splodgy finish that did not seem to help with the dye bleeding problem anyway. Any good advice? Different oil I can try, or a better way to seal? My spraying skills/equipment is clearly not up to scratch so a hand-applied approach would be better I think. This is the bass as it is now, sanded back and dyed, awaiting my next attempt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommorichards Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 I'd probably try a dye designed for use on wood instead of leather, if it were me that is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manton Customs Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 You’ve got two options- 1 - Strip the dye again, this time use a water based dye to reapply. This shouldn’t have the same problem as the base of the dye is different to the base of your oil top coat. 2 - Develop your spray skills and get a few cans of clear nitrocellulose. This would also work fine if you mist on the first couple of coats. It’s easier than it seems, especially if you go for a satin or matte. Obviously wear a mask if you do this. Option one may be tricky as the wood has been previously oiled, which can sink in to the pores a bit. This will give a blotchy result if you don’t remove it all throughly. With either option it’s important to test your finishing procedure (all steps) first on a piece of scrap. It is always worth doing this and will save a lot of time in the long run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyy Posted August 22 Author Share Posted August 22 Thought I would update this post in case it is of use to others. I got a finish that I am happy with. After I sanded everything back I: * Re-dyed the body with the leather dye * Used 4 coats of shellac sanding sealer (water based) to seal the dye, applied with a cloth. Dye does lift at this point, but not enough to worry about. * 4 coats of tru oil applied with a cloth, with 24 hours between each coat. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NancyJohnson Posted August 25 Share Posted August 25 I stripped an Ibanez Roadster a few years back, no idea what the wood is... used black Fiebings leather dye. Didn't have any real issues with the application; I did a couple of coats, applied with a clean rag, and lightly sanded between these as the fluid lifted the grain. Like you, it was the finishing over that that was the issue; there was a bit of rubbing back. There were a couple of patches where it seemed to be a real struggle to get the dye to take on the body, so rub back, reapply. Eventually I just clear coated it several times without knocking it back between coats. I let it dry for a few days, spray again. After several coats, orange peel was minimal, sanded back and applied a final coat. Used some Crimson compound to try and bring out a shine (suspect T-cut might have been cheaper!!). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maude Posted August 25 Share Posted August 25 I realise you've finished now (and it's looking good, I love a red Precision 😎), but for anyone else looking to do similar, calligraphy ink is a very good wood dye. Huge range of colours, cheap, and water based so, as @Manton Customssaid, an oil based finish won't affect it. Seeing @Andyjr1515 use inks led to me trying trying them and I'm glad I did. You can layer it up to a degree and put more on the edges to achieve a sunburst type fade, even blend different colours. The horns and along the centre laminate were put on slightly heavier. And here it is lacquered... And yes, that darker laminate bugs me that it wasn't put in the centre when being built, why? 😁 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted August 25 Share Posted August 25 (edited) 39 minutes ago, Maude said: I realise you've finished now (and it's looking good, I love a red Precision 😎), but for anyone else looking to do similar, calligraphy ink is a very good wood dye. Huge range of colours, cheap, and water based so, as @Manton Customssaid, an oil based finish won't affect it. Seeing @Andyjr1515 use inks led to me trying trying them and I'm glad I did. You can layer it up to a degree and put more on the edges to achieve a sunburst type fade, even blend different colours. The horns and along the centre laminate were put on slightly heavier. And here it is lacquered... And yes, that darker laminate bugs me that it wasn't put in the centre when being built, why? 😁 Very kind for the mention @Maude - and gosh - that is a super, super job you've done there!!! Edited August 25 by Andyjr1515 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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