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Posted

Hey folks! šŸ‘‹ 😊

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I'm currently plotting a project to build a 5 string P style bass, but with a single MM humbucker instead, positioned in between the traditional P and MM positions. Not sure yet whether I'm going to build from scratch again or buy a cheap bass to mod, to prove/disprove the concept.

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I'm looking to wire it passively, with just volume, tone, and a 3-way series/split/parallel switch. What I'm not sure about is what pot and cap values would be recommended? What say the BC collective? I'm leaning towards 500k vol, 250k tone, and a .047 cap.

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Thanks for your help! šŸ˜ŠšŸ‘Œ

Posted

First of all, 3 pos is not necessary. Do trials and choose two sounds out of three: series is the other and parallel or single is the other. Those latter ones are very similar. Parallel gives slightly higher level, single a thinner and brighter sound. But the difference is small.

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If you want brighter sound, put 500k or 1M pots.

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Posted (edited)
44 minutes ago, itu said:

First of all, 3 pos is not necessary. Do trials and choose two sounds out of three: series is the other and parallel or single is the other. Those latter ones are very similar. Parallel gives slightly higher level, single a thinner and brighter sound. But the difference is small.

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If you want brighter sound, put 500k or 1M pots.

Thanks Itu, I'm okay with the switching, I've done it before, and are there's not a huge difference. What value cap would you suggest?

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Edit: I have also considered doing a G&L L1000 style switch, with parallel/single/OMG šŸ‘Œ

Edited by TRBboy
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Posted
4 hours ago, TRBboy said:

What value cap would you suggest?

This so subjective. I have two different caps behind a rotary switch (OFF/C1/C2/ON; thanks to @KiOgon) in one of my basses, and both sound good in their respective music styles.

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Posted

I can't comment on cap value, but I've done a 4 way switch and can confirm that series is way different from the others, but there is an appreciable difference between parallel and either of the singles (and a slight but definite difference between the two singles). I actually prefer the singles, though the humbucking effect of series or parallel is useful.

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Posted

Thanks for all the info guys, very helpful. Am I right in thinking the original Stingrays were wired parallel? I believe parallel is more 'open' sounding but lower output, and series is more ballsy with higher output? Is this correct? Been a long time since I played around with this switching šŸ˜…

Posted

Series is a huge level and pretty boomy. Parallel is scooped. Individual sounds most natural to me, more like a p. But writing about sound is like dancing about architecture so take that with a pinch of salt.

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Posted
2 hours ago, TRBboy said:

Thanks for all the info guys, very helpful. Am I right in thinking the original Stingrays were wired parallel? I believe parallel is more 'open' sounding but lower output, and series is more ballsy with higher output? Is this correct? Been a long time since I played around with this switching šŸ˜…

Yes to all questions.

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Posted
2 hours ago, TRBboy said:

Thanks for all the info guys, very helpful. Am I right in thinking the original Stingrays were wired parallel? I believe parallel is more 'open' sounding but lower output, and series is more ballsy with higher output? Is this correct? Been a long time since I played around with this switching šŸ˜…


As far as Stingrays are concerned the original 4 strings were wired in parallel. However Stingray 5s (single H) were wired in series, but with a parallel/single coil/series switch - bearing in mind they started with alnico, moved to ceramic (1992 ish-2008) and then back to alnico.Ā 
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The passive Stingray available these days (short scale) has the same system you describe, with a rotary switch for series, parallel, single coil and a tone control - the pick up is neodymium however. I have a long scale (Tim Commerford signature version) - the series is a fatter sound, the parallel a little more scooped and the single coil is a bit like a Jazz with the bridge pick up soloed. You can probably find a wiring diagram on the EBMM site.Ā 

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Posted

Hi mate, I have done this recently, using a Warman humbucker in the traditional stingray spot.

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I used 250k pots and it sounded fine.

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I know someone here suggested differently, but I would strongly suggest having parallel and single coil options available- I didn't find series very useful in a passive setup.

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I used the single coil closest to the neck most of all- one of the few times our band's usually dour sound engineer has complimented the sound of my bass was when using this!

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Posted
On 09/08/2024 at 22:44, Hellzero said:

You seem to have forgotten the Joe Dart models, and the Nate Mendel Sterling by Music Man model too @drTStingray... šŸ˜‰

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Do you not mean the Pete Wentz SBMM passive Stingray?

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ST-WENTZ-BK-R2_1200x.thumb.webp.518ce8703fbea9e5b29d68c05b8fe95a.webp

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Posted (edited)

I did this recently too. I would stick with your series/parallel/single coil idea. There is plenty of tonal difference IMO to make it worth doing. My preference is for the front coil but it’s all personal choice. I tried 500k pots first and it was a very loud bright and not particularly pleasant sound. I swapped out for 250k pots and in a moment of madness a 0.1uf oil in paper cap. That cap was probably a bit too dark and I changed it for .047 that rolled off enough top end without going too dark and muddy. The 250k plus .047 gave a much more pleasant, less brittle sound than the 500ks at the expense of a little volume but still plenty loud enough. I tired both a Kent Armstrong and a Warman pickup. Both were powerful enough to use in a passive circuit. The Kent Armstrong had more finesse to my ears and the added bonus of covered pole pieces, meaning you couldn’t inadvertently touch a pole piece and get that horrible buzz.

Edited by Obrienp
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Posted
12 hours ago, ead said:

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Do you not mean the Pete Wentz SBMM passive Stingray?

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ST-WENTZ-BK-R2_1200x.thumb.webp.518ce8703fbea9e5b29d68c05b8fe95a.webp

Isn't he the same guy? šŸ¤ŖšŸ¤”šŸ¤¦šŸ˜‰

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I stand corrected.

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Thanks.

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